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## Re: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control

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• Thanks for the explanation. I managed to borrow a friend s scope and found out what why the output from the dimmer made no sense The damn dimmer was bad. The
Message 1 of 18 , Aug 8, 2008
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Thanks for the explanation.
I managed to borrow a friend's scope and found out what why the output from the dimmer made no sense

The damn dimmer was bad.

The new one is working fine, and using the calculator on Tony's site as a rough guideline, the control was easy to mark.
Very time consuming to compare (I did it at 4 different settings), but good enough for what I'm doing with it.

Thanks again guys.

Dulcet Brewer wrote:

One specific element that's been left out of the discussion so far is the fact that any power control circuit can be made to conform to any required load characteristic - simply by changing the function of the variable resistor and/or the capacitor that forms the RC element.

Assuming we are using a purely resistive load (and a heating element should be) then a
LINEAR pot(entiometer) will cause the power output of the thyristor/triac to follow the rotary position of the slider. ie 1/4 of the slider's rotation angle = 1/4 power etc.  This also assumes the capacitor has been sized correctly.

However if the load is not purely resistive (ie there is some inductive or capacitive effect) then a logarithmic pot will be needed to mimic the effect of linearity.  This circuit would also require a substatntial amount of design work to match the R/C network to the non-linearity of the load.
Hope that muddies the waters further, but the real answer to the original question is that if the load is ONLY a heating element, and if the power output starts at 1 end of the rotation of the slider and gets to full output at the other end of the slider, then it is probably linear.  A good way to roughly evaluate this is to just use a 60 watt light bulb as a load, and slowly wind the pot back and forth.

DulcetBrewer
Perth, Western Australia

Measure, once or twice - cut: mostly.

• think this thread maybe coming to an end but before it does I m sure the info on the Triac I used maybe useful, see this link for Data sheet: -
Message 2 of 18 , Aug 9, 2008
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think this thread maybe coming to an end but before it does I'm sure
the info on the Triac I used maybe useful, see this link for Data
sheet: - http://tinyurl.com/656t6z I know this component is probably
overkill but for the price of the component, the use and abuse it will
encounter, heat etc. I thought why not the best. I do find the
potentiometer could be upgraded as the case obviously becomes quite
warm and effects the cheap commercial potentiometer fitted, (plastic
shaft etc. although it has lasted several years.

Re- the choke issue, I assumed it was present just for radio
interference (please correct me if I'm wrong), I just removed and
bridged it. As most communication these days are digital I couldn't
see a problem especially as the unit is only used probably once a
month for 3 hours, at the most.

Hope this has been useful and any feedback / knowledge will be

I'm sure non of us are to proud to learn from others J

Here to help (if I can).

Bob.
• Thanks Bob Funny i was looking t the same Tri.... u say several years of operation... not bad for a cheap old pot. Is the value of the pot a 500 K ? I promise
Message 3 of 18 , Aug 9, 2008
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 Thanks BobFunny i was looking t the same Tri.... u say several years of operation... not bad for a cheap old pot. Is the value of the pot a 500 K ?I promise this is my last question.All my Best Bill --- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bob wrote:From: Bob Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat ControlTo: Distillers@yahoogroups.comDate: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 7:56 AM think this thread maybe coming to an end but before it does I'm sure the info on the Triac I used maybe useful, see this link for Data sheet: - http://tinyurl. com/656t6z I know this component is probably overkill but for the price of the component, the use and abuse it will encounter, heat etc. I thought why not the best. I do find the potentiometer could be upgraded as the case obviously becomes quite warm and effects the cheap commercial potentiometer fitted, (plastic shaft etc. although it has lasted several years. Re- the choke issue, I assumed it was present just for radio interference (please correct me if I'm wrong), I just removed and bridged it. As most communication these days are digital I couldn't see a problem especially as the unit is only used probably once a month for 3 hours, at the most. Hope this has been useful and any feedback / knowledge will be gratefully received. I'm sure non of us are to proud to learn from others J Here to help (if I can). Bob.

• ... For what it s worth, I got the fixin s for 3 complete 30 amp triac controllers from digikey.com for under \$30. Even if it doesn t work for that long,
Message 4 of 18 , Aug 9, 2008
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--- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bill Williams <vipond50@...> wrote:
> Thanks Bob
> Funny i was looking t the same Tri.... u say several years of
> operation... not bad for a cheap old pot. Is the value of the pot a 500 K >
> I promise this is my last question.
> All my Best
> Bill

For what it's worth, I got the fixin's for 3 complete 30 amp triac controllers from digikey.com for under \$30. Even if it doesn't work for that long, replacing it (subject, of course, to one's inclination to tinker) isn't that expensive. Especially if you consider that it may only be one component that fails and needs replacing. At which point, buy a component rated at a higher power and keep on chuggin'.

I will at least clarify that I haven't taken the time to assemble my rig, but at least that's my theory. Since I now have an outbuilding, I can tinker a little harder and messier because SWMBO will no longer have a conniption when I fire up the mapp torch in the kitchen :) As such, I'll have to test my theory here soon.

Cheers,
Trid
• SWMBO = Sherman LMAO :) ... a 500 K ... controllers from digikey.com for under \$30. Even if it doesn t work for that long, replacing it (subject, of course,
Message 5 of 18 , Aug 9, 2008
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SWMBO = Sherman LMAO :)

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Trid <triddlywinks@...> wrote:
>
> --- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bill Williams <vipond50@...> wrote:
> > Thanks Bob
> > Funny i was looking t the same Tri.... u say several years of
> > operation... not bad for a cheap old pot. Is the value of the pot
a 500 K >
> > I promise this is my last question.
> > All my Best
> > Bill
>
> For what it's worth, I got the fixin's for 3 complete 30 amp triac
controllers from digikey.com for under \$30. Even if it doesn't work
for that long, replacing it (subject, of course, to one's inclination
to tinker) isn't that expensive. Especially if you consider that it
may only be one component that fails and needs replacing. At which
point, buy a component rated at a higher power and keep on chuggin'.
>
> I will at least clarify that I haven't taken the time to assemble my
rig, but at least that's my theory. Since I now have an outbuilding,
I can tinker a little harder and messier because SWMBO will no longer
have a conniption when I fire up the mapp torch in the kitchen :) As
such, I'll have to test my theory here soon.
>
> Cheers,
> Trid
>
• Hi Bob.   Yes, the choke would have been purely for RFI suppression - PLEASE don t let Yodar know you bridged it.  He will have a hernia. (He s hambiased!)
Message 6 of 18 , Aug 11, 2008
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 Hi Bob. Yes, the choke would have been purely for RFI suppression - PLEASE don't let Yodar know you bridged it.  He will have a hernia. (He's hambiased!) The pot should NOT need to be a power device.  If the circuit is designed properly, a standard 100-500K 1 watt device will work perfectly As an aside, I have found that back-to-back thyristors are much more reliable than a single triac.  It means the circuit is fractionally more complicated ie 2 diacs instead of 1 for reliable triggering, but high wattage tryristors are substantially cheaper than equiv triacs, so there is an offset. Love the ref to 1 of my favourite TV chars - Rumpo himself!  Fortunately my own SWMBO is a scotch drinker. DulcetBrewerPerth, Western Australia Measure, once or twice - cut: mostly. --- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bob wrote:From: Bob Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat ControlTo: Distillers@yahoogroups.comDate: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 7:56 AMthink this thread maybe coming to an end but before it does I'm surethe info on the Triac I used maybe useful, see this link for Datasheet: - http://tinyurl. com/656t6z I know this component is probablyoverkill but for the price of the component, the use and abuse it willencounter, heat etc. I thought why not the best. I do find thepotentiometer could be upgraded as the case obviously becomes quitewarm and effects the cheap commercial potentiometer fitted, (plasticshaft etc. although it has lasted several years.Re- the choke issue, I assumed it was present just for radiointerference (please correct me if I'm wrong), I just removed andbridged it. As most communication these days are digital I couldn'tsee a problem especially as the unit is only used probably once amonth for 3 hours, at the most.Hope this has been useful and any feedback / knowledge will begratefully received.I'm sure non of us are to proud to learn from others JHere to help (if I can).Bob.

• Just a few notes from experience. The most reliable setup is cascade alternistors. I have built dozens of these capable of 9KW and yet to have a single
Message 7 of 18 , Aug 11, 2008
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Just a few notes from experience.
The most reliable setup is cascade alternistors. I have built dozens
of these capable of 9KW and yet to have a single failure.
This reliability comes from the predetermined limit resister that
drives the first alternistor in the cascade. Is also allows a simple 3
component trigger because of the sensitivity of the first alternistor.
The ability to drive a inductive loads without a snubber circuit is an
inherent attribute of the alternistor and is a bonus but not needed
with resistive heating elements. Larger coiled heating element can
have enough inductance to cause a thyristor or triac to not switch off
properly.

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dulcet Brewer <dulcetbrewer@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob.
>
> Yes, the choke would have been purely for RFI suppression - PLEASE
don't let Yodar know you bridged it. He will have a hernia. (He's
hambiased!)
>
> The pot should NOT need to be a power device. If the circuit is
designed properly, a standard 100-500K 1 watt device will work perfectly
>
> As an aside, I have found that back-to-back thyristors are much more
reliable than a single triac. It means the circuit is fractionally
more complicated ie 2 diacs instead of 1 for reliable triggering, but
high wattage tryristors are substantially cheaper than equiv triacs,
so there is an offset.
>
> Love the ref to 1 of my favourite TV chars - Rumpo himself!
Fortunately my own SWMBO is a scotch drinker.
>
>
> DulcetBrewer
> Perth, Western Australia
>
> Measure, once or twice - cut: mostly.
>
> --- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bob <foxyfoxy50@...> wrote:
>
> From: Bob <foxyfoxy50@...>
> Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control
> To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 7:56 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> think this thread maybe coming to an end but before it does I'm sure
> the info on the Triac I used maybe useful, see this link for Data
> sheet: - http://tinyurl. com/656t6z I know this component is probably
> overkill but for the price of the component, the use and abuse it will
> encounter, heat etc. I thought why not the best. I do find the
> potentiometer could be upgraded as the case obviously becomes quite
> warm and effects the cheap commercial potentiometer fitted, (plastic
> shaft etc. although it has lasted several years.
>
> Re- the choke issue, I assumed it was present just for radio
> interference (please correct me if I'm wrong), I just removed and
> bridged it. As most communication these days are digital I couldn't
> see a problem especially as the unit is only used probably once a
> month for 3 hours, at the most.
>
> Hope this has been useful and any feedback / knowledge will be
>
> I'm sure non of us are to proud to learn from others J
>
> Here to help (if I can).
>
> Bob.
>
• Hey Pint, Do you have a schematic? (I ll admit, I had to look up alternistor .) Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller ________________________________ To:
Message 8 of 18 , Aug 11, 2008
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Hey Pint,

Do you have a schematic? (I'll admit, I had to look up "alternistor".)

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller

________________________________
To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
From: pintoshine@...
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:12:39 +0000
Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control

Just a few notes from experience.

The most reliable setup is cascade alternistors. I have built dozens

of these capable of 9KW and yet to have a single failure.

This reliability comes from the predetermined limit resister that

drives the first alternistor in the cascade. Is also allows a simple 3

component trigger because of the sensitivity of the first alternistor.

The ability to drive a inductive loads without a snubber circuit is an

inherent attribute of the alternistor and is a bonus but not needed

with resistive heating elements. Larger coiled heating element can

have enough inductance to cause a thyristor or triac to not switch off

properly.

----snip----
_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia Contest
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM
• this is the one I use for my kits.
Message 9 of 18 , Aug 12, 2008
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this is the one I use for my kits.
http://www.artisan-distiller.org/photoalbum/main.php?cmd=imageview&var1=pint_o_shine%2Flhcontroller%2Flightdimmer_240VAC.JPG&var2=0

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hubble <zymurgybob@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Pint,
>
> Do you have a schematic? (I'll admit, I had to look up "alternistor".)
>
> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
>
> ________________________________
> To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
> From: pintoshine@...
> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:12:39 +0000
> Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control
>
>
> Just a few notes from experience.
>
> The most reliable setup is cascade alternistors. I have built dozens
>
> of these capable of 9KW and yet to have a single failure.
>
> This reliability comes from the predetermined limit resister that
>
> drives the first alternistor in the cascade. Is also allows a simple 3
>
> component trigger because of the sensitivity of the first alternistor.
>
> The ability to drive a inductive loads without a snubber circuit is an
>
> inherent attribute of the alternistor and is a bonus but not needed
>
> with resistive heating elements. Larger coiled heating element can
>
> have enough inductance to cause a thyristor or triac to not switch off
>
> properly.
>
>
>
> ----snip----
> _________________________________________________________________
> Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games
Trivia Contest
> http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM
>
• Thanks Pint, Cute, and it looks like you could drive an even larger output alternistor (if they made it in that device family) with that circuit. Is that
Message 10 of 18 , Aug 12, 2008
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Thanks Pint,

Cute, and it looks like you could drive an even larger
output alternistor (if they made it in that device family)
with that circuit. Is that left-hand device in the same
family as the other 2?

And did you say you are producing these in kits?

Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller

To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
From: pintoshine@...
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 14:04:30 +0000
Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control

this is the one I use for my kits.
http://www.artisan- distiller. org/photoalbum/ main.php? cmd=imageview& var1=pint_ o_shine%2Flhcont roller%2Flightdi mmer_240VAC. JPG&var2= 0

--- In Distillers@yahoogro ups.com, Robert Hubble <zymurgybob@ ...> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Pint,
>
> Do you have a schematic? (I'll admit, I had to look up "alternistor" .)
>
> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> To: Distillers@yahoogro ups.com
> From: pintoshine@. ..
> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:12:39 +0000
> Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control
>
>
> Just a few notes from experience.
>
> The most reliable setup is cascade alternistors. I have built dozens
>
> of these capable of 9KW and yet to have a single failure.
>
> This reliability comes from the predetermined limit resister that
>
> drives the first alternistor in the cascade. Is also allows a simple 3
>
> component trigger because of the sensitivity of the first alternistor.
>
> The ability to drive a inductive loads without a snubber circuit is an
>
> inherent attribute of the alternistor and is a bonus but not needed
>
> with resistive heating elements. Larger coiled heating element can
>
> have enough inductance to cause a thyristor or triac to not switch off
>
> properly.
>
>
>
> ----snip----
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games
Trivia Contest
> http://www.gowindow slive.com/ summergames? ocid=TXT_ TAGHM
>

Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never before. See how Windows® fits your life
• Hello I have reviewed the different options and some of the individuals have had great success with the dimmer  CKT. Some have cascaded tri s and dia s. I
Message 11 of 18 , Aug 12, 2008
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 HelloI have reviewed the different options and some of the individuals have had great success with the dimmer  CKT. Some have cascaded tri's and dia's. I believed I will go with a Zero cross electronic relay and drive it with a simple Dc powered 555 adjustable OSC. Of coarse this is my take, but as i stated I believed this is the simplest and most versatile option, although maybe not the best option.Thank for all the great work Guy's and input relating to this subject.Best RegardsBill --- On Tue, 8/12/08, Sherman wrote:From: Sherman Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat ControlTo: Distillers@yahoogroups.comDate: Tuesday, August 12, 2008, 7:04 AMthis is the one I use for my kits. http://www.artisan- distiller. org/photoalbum/ main.php? cmd=imageview& var1=pint_ o_shine%2Flhcont roller%2Flightdi mmer_240VAC. JPG&var2= 0 --- In Distillers@yahoogro ups.com, Robert Hubble wrote: > > > Hey Pint, > > Do you have a schematic? (I'll admit, I had to look up "alternistor" .) > > Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > To: Distillers@yahoogro ups.com > From: pintoshine@. .. > Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:12:39 +0000 > Subject: [Distillers] Re:Heat Control > > > Just a few notes from experience. > > The most reliable setup is cascade alternistors. I have built dozens > > of these capable of 9KW and yet to have a single failure. > > This reliability comes from the predetermined limit resister that > > drives the first alternistor in the cascade. Is also allows a simple 3 > > component trigger because of the sensitivity of the first alternistor. > > The ability to drive a inductive loads without a snubber circuit is an > > inherent attribute of the alternistor and is a bonus but not needed > > with resistive heating elements. Larger coiled heating element can > > have enough inductance to cause a thyristor or triac to not switch off > > properly. > > > > ----snip---- > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ > Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia Contest > http://www.gowindow slive.com/ summergames? ocid=TXT_ TAGHM >

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