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Re: Boiling your mash/wort?

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  • waljaco
    I am not convinced that applying excessive heat to the wort is necessary or beneficial. This point is important for both the brewer and distiller who is going
    Message 1 of 2 , Jan 31, 2002
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      I am not convinced that applying excessive heat to the wort is
      necessary or beneficial. This point is important for both the brewer
      and distiller who is going for maximum flavor.
      Boiling hops in the open will drive off volatile oils so it would be
      better to boil them separately (in a bag) in a pressure cooker where
      the B.P. temperature is below that of atmospheric. Another way is to
      use a small essential oil still such as the one used by Tony Ackland
      for flavoring, then add this to the fermenting wort, preferably after
      the initial fermentation subsides a bit, so as not to drive off the
      volatiles.
      Temperature above 170F/75C will destroy the enzymes that produce
      flavor and head. Amylase will still act on the starchy malt additive,
      pullulanase will give maltodextrins, and protease enzymes will
      depolymerise proteins giving amino acid residues. Milk for example
      has proteins, and boiling milk does not break them down. By boiling
      the wort after 75% of the starch has been converted to fermentable
      sugar, you will stop the enzymic action, which is one way to retain
      non-fermentable dextrins which are needed to give body and a foam
      head. Another way is to add 10% of malt additives (flaked barley,
      flaked maize). You save energy and retain maximum flavor.
      Try a taste test.

      Wal
    • king edward potatohead
      ... From: waljaco I am not convinced that applying excessive heat to the wort is necessary or beneficial. This point is important for
      Message 2 of 2 , Feb 1, 2002
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        ---- Begin Original Message ----
        From: "waljaco" <waljaco@...>

        I am not convinced that applying excessive heat to the wort is
        necessary or beneficial. This point is important for both the brewer
        and distiller who is going for maximum flavor.
        Boiling hops in the open will drive off volatile oils so it would be
        better to boil them separately (in a bag) in a pressure cooker where
        the B.P. temperature is below that of atmospheric.
        ----------------------

        I tried reply to this yesterday but the message seemd to get lost somewhere. Without the
        prolonged boil, you don't get conversion of the hop alpha acids into a soluble bittering form.
        True, you drive off a lot of the volatile aromatics but you also drive off a lot agents present in
        the malt that can give off flavours in an ale. The lighter essential oils - which give a hoppy
        aroma rather than a bitter flavour are traditionaly replace by dry hopping - the addition of dry
        hops to the cask whilst the ale is maturing, a lot of recipies these days add hops at 60mins
        into the boil or just before the wort if cooled for much the same effect. Incidentaly, the BP in a
        pressure cooker is above that at atmospheric pressure.

        Boiling also cause precipitation of proteins that would lead to a haze in the finished product,
        and yes this includes the amylase systems that are utilised in mashing but then, once the
        wort has been run off from the mash tun, these enzymes have done their job. This isn't so
        critical when malt extract is used but it really is important if you have any proportion of
        genuine malt present.

        As for head formation - it does work perfectly well with plain malt extract recipies, the
        simplest addition if you want a really thick head is a small amount of roasted barley,
        chocolate malt or black malt ( none of which require mashing ). I brewed with malt extract and
        hops for many years before making the conversion to full grain, and even these days I tend to
        used half and half malt grain to malt extract. Granted, you have no control over the dextrin
        content of malt extract - which is usualy low as the mash is done for maximum conversion but
        that's compensated for by mashing the grain at a higher temperature to encourage dextrin
        formation over simple sugar formation. The higher the dextrin levels, the sweeter the finished
        product. Dextrin is fermentable by the yeast but only at a slow rate - it's what allows the head
        of CO2 to build up in the cask when you don't prime ( which I never do for any ale over
        4%ABV - which is pretty much all of my brews ). Stupidly strong ales like some of my stock
        ales ( 9% and above ) start out extremely cloying when fresh but 'dry out' after a couple of
        years in the cask or bottle ( I admit I've never managed to keep a bottle past three years ).

        By the way, I've come across one reference to an Eau de Vie produced from well hopped ale (
        in Belgium I think), has anyone here experience of distillation from a hopped ferment?

        Happy brewing,
        Strounge







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