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Inactivating Yeast

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  • waljaco
    Inactivation of yeast Handbook of Brewing, W.A. Hardwick, 1994 page 525 - http://tinyurl.com/6dcn39 wal
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 6, 2008
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      Inactivation of yeast
      Handbook of Brewing, W.A. Hardwick, 1994
      page 525 -

      http://tinyurl.com/6dcn39

      wal
    • headsmashedin
      So, am I to understand that a person in the latter hours of fermentation could put an end to stubborn active yeast by heating wash to 60C? At this temp no
      Message 2 of 3 , Jul 6, 2008
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        So, am I to understand that a person in the latter hours of
        fermentation could put an end to stubborn active yeast by heating wash
        to 60C? At this temp no ethanol would be cooked off? Allow wash to
        settle and still it. Would this not be a way to help settle your wash?

        Heads McGoatlick




        > http://tinyurl.com/6dcn39

        > wal
      • Harry
        ... wash ... Yes. I have written about this some years back. BUT, be aware that if you go over 60C then you run the risk of the yeast spilling its guts and
        Message 3 of 3 , Jul 7, 2008
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          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headsmashedin" <headsmashedin@...>
          wrote:
          >
          >
          > So, am I to understand that a person in the latter hours of
          > fermentation could put an end to stubborn active yeast by heating
          wash
          > to 60C? At this temp no ethanol would be cooked off? Allow wash to
          > settle and still it. Would this not be a way to help settle your wash?
          >
          > Heads McGoatlick


          Yes. I have written about this some years back. BUT, be aware that if
          you go over 60C then you run the risk of the yeast spilling its guts
          and stinking up your wash.

          Assuming you use your still as a boiler, the correct way to do it is to
          heat the wash (with suspended yeast) to 60C, then let it cool & settle
          overnight, boiler still closed up to prevent things getting in or out.
          Next day is stillin' day. Rack off the cleared wash back into your
          fermenter, clean out the yeast sludge from the boiler & save it as
          nutrients for your next fermentation. Now take your cleared wash,
          refill the boiler and distil it off as usual.

          After strip distilling, you can set your new wort while your spirit run
          and boiler is coming up to temp. Or if you just do one single run of
          the wash(some do), you set your new wort when the still boiler is free
          and you have the spent beer (lees) to cook up the yeast. The strippate
          will be fine until you want to do a spirit run. You can even store
          strippate for extended periods as it is high enough abv to ward off any
          infections. So here's the procedure...

          Wort Set Procedure:
          Use 1/3 of the total hot spent wash from the strip run. Fire the
          boiler, add the previously saved spent yeast and bring it up to simmer
          temp. This will purposely burst the yeast and spill the nutrients.
          Add this mix back to your fermenter and dissolve your sugar. Then add
          cool/cold water to bring it to the right temp and volume. Check the
          pH and adjust it to 5 - 5.5 as necessary. Take and record an SG
          reading. Add any other ingredients you want, stir it all up, pitch
          your rehydrated yeast and stir it up again. Finish off by fitting your
          air pump or airlock as per your normal procedure.

          This is a very efficient way to recycle your spent yeast, your lees and
          streamline your stillin' day. Of course if you don't want to start
          another wort this soon, you will have to save the lees in a suitable
          container and reheat them when you need to.


          Slainte!
          regards Harry
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