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RE: [Distillers] Re: Jackson Crossflow Condensor, was starting over from scratch

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  • Robert N
    Hi Baker there was a system that you may remember that was on the Australian ABC TV network called The New Inventers one of the inventions showcased was a
    Message 1 of 25 , Jan 3, 2008
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      Hi Baker there was a system that you may remember that was on the Australian ABC TV network called “The New Inventers” one of the “inventions” showcased was a still said to distil salt water or effluent laced water etc. Was made of stainless steel and basically it was the boiler on the bottom and a holding tank/condenser above with the off take tube winding through the top tank.

       

      The greatest problem’s, although not insurmountable, with this idea is what happens if the “coolant” gets too hot to cool the product. And of course what happens as the wash empties out toward the end of the run do you top up with water. This then makes it awfully expensive to get the last of the alcohol out.

       

      Cheers

       

      Robert

       

      From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gff_stwrt
      Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 12:34 PM
      To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [Distillers] Re: Jackson Crossflow Condensor, was starting over from scratch

       

      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:

      >

      snip

      A correctly packed and balanced column should only have fully
      > stripped water as the bottoms product, which returns to the boiler.
      >
      snip snip snip !

      Hi, Harry, hi folks,

      So let me think as I put this down....

      Letting this 'fully stripped water' return to the boiler seems
      incredibly inefficient.

      Suppose I directed the vapour to the side of the column, part-way
      up, instead of mounting the column on the top of the boiler....

      (And I know this idea is not at all original but nobody seems to
      do it!)

      ....and directed this 'fully stripped water' from the base of the
      column THROUGH A PARROT'S BEAK CONTAINING A HYDROMETER so that I
      could be sure I was not losing alcohol, to a collection vessel (or
      for that matter to a drain as long as the hydrometer was carefully
      watched).

      One could then have (as did the alembic stills of the pioneering
      arabs) a reserve tank for the mash, and feed it through a tap to
      the boiler which should
      have a sight glass, another un-original idea perhaps not that often
      used, so that the inflow, which would be very slow anyway so would
      not affect the operation of the boiler, could be matched to outflows
      of product plus water.

      One would then have a continuous or semi-continuous still which
      would save a terrific amount of time now used between batches to
      empty and clean and refill the boiler and wait (the biggest loss of
      time) for the boiler to re-heat. Such a system would use a minimal
      extra amount of energy (particularly easy to do with gas heating) to
      heat the small amount of cool wash entering the boiler, continuously.

      In the case of a pot-still, again as the Arabs used to do, one could
      direct the lyne arm THROUGH the reserve tank for the mash so it is
      pre-heated with what was wasted energy.

      Is ANYBODY already using a system like this? I know I have
      seendiagrams, possibly Harry posted one some time ago.

      It doesn't involve a great deal of extra work if you are going to
      make a still anyway.

      Regards,

      The Baker

    • waljaco
      Preheating the wine? Not the Arabs but the French in Charente province (for cognac). wal
      Message 2 of 25 , Jan 5, 2008
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        Preheating the wine? Not the Arabs but the French in Charente province
        (for cognac).
        wal
        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "gff_stwrt" <gff_stwrt@...> wrote:
        >
        > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@> wrote:
        > >
        >
        > snip
        >
        > A correctly packed and balanced column should only have fully
        > > stripped water as the bottoms product, which returns to the boiler.
        > >
        > snip snip snip !
        >
        >
        > Hi, Harry, hi folks,
        >
        > So let me think as I put this down....
        >
        > Letting this 'fully stripped water' return to the boiler seems
        > incredibly inefficient.
        >
        > Suppose I directed the vapour to the side of the column, part-way
        > up, instead of mounting the column on the top of the boiler....
        >
        > (And I know this idea is not at all original but nobody seems to
        > do it!)
        >
        > ....and directed this 'fully stripped water' from the base of the
        > column THROUGH A PARROT'S BEAK CONTAINING A HYDROMETER so that I
        > could be sure I was not losing alcohol, to a collection vessel (or
        > for that matter to a drain as long as the hydrometer was carefully
        > watched).
        >
        > One could then have (as did the alembic stills of the pioneering
        > arabs) a reserve tank for the mash, and feed it through a tap to
        > the boiler which should
        > have a sight glass, another un-original idea perhaps not that often
        > used, so that the inflow, which would be very slow anyway so would
        > not affect the operation of the boiler, could be matched to outflows
        > of product plus water.
        >
        > One would then have a continuous or semi-continuous still which
        > would save a terrific amount of time now used between batches to
        > empty and clean and refill the boiler and wait (the biggest loss of
        > time) for the boiler to re-heat. Such a system would use a minimal
        > extra amount of energy (particularly easy to do with gas heating) to
        > heat the small amount of cool wash entering the boiler, continuously.
        >
        > In the case of a pot-still, again as the Arabs used to do, one could
        > direct the lyne arm THROUGH the reserve tank for the mash so it is
        > pre-heated with what was wasted energy.
        >
        > Is ANYBODY already using a system like this? I know I have
        > seendiagrams, possibly Harry posted one some time ago.
        >
        > It doesn't involve a great deal of extra work if you are going to
        > make a still anyway.
        >
        > Regards,
        >
        > The Baker
        >
        > p.s. sorry if a couple of words are run together, my computer has
        > decided to munch up what I have already written when I try to
        > correct or edit anything and I don't know how to stop it! G.
        >
      • Zapata Vive
        Another question for you Harry. For the dam in the head, instead of having a machine shop pinch a piece of pipe, how about using a sheet of copper to braze
        Message 3 of 25 , Jan 8, 2008
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          Another question for you Harry.
          For the "dam" in the head, instead of having a machine shop pinch a piece of pipe, how about using a sheet of copper to braze in a rim?  I say braze because then you could solder the rest of the "T" fitting without melting it.
           
          I'm imagining cutting a piece of pipe and flattening it.  This I would solder in to make the damn, attaching it right at the lip of the "T".  I'm also wondering if this dam sheet were slightly oversized downwards and bent inward, making a drip ring so the reflux would be directed at least onto packing and not just down the side wall of the column.
           
          What do you think?  See any problems?
           
        • Harry
          ... piece of pipe, how about using a sheet of copper to braze in a rim? I say braze because then you could solder the rest of the T fitting without melting
          Message 4 of 25 , Jan 8, 2008
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            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Zapata Vive" <zapatavive@...> wrote:
            >
            > Another question for you Harry.
            > For the "dam" in the head, instead of having a machine shop pinch a piece of pipe, how about using a sheet of copper to braze in a rim?  I say braze because then you could solder the rest of the "T" fitting without melting it.
            >
            > I'm imagining cutting a piece of pipe and flattening it.  This I would solder in to make the damn, attaching it right at the lip of the "T".  I'm also wondering if this dam sheet were slightly oversized downwards and bent inward, making a drip ring so the reflux would be directed at least onto packing and not just down the side wall of the column.
            >
            > What do you think?  See any problems?
            >


            The only problem would be your metalworking skill limitations (if any) and your patience with fiddly work.

            This design can be adapted to any configuration you wish, while still maintaining the overall concept of unrestricted coolant flow and large capacity condensing.

            You can do away with the dam altogether if you're running it as a total reflux overhead condenser in a Vapour Management design (Fig.1).

            The dam is only necessary if you intend to take liquid from the cross-piece as a sump.  If you want to take liquid more conventionally, then the dual slant-plate concept (Fig. 2) that Alex used in his mini-still will work.  You can also do an internal cup design (Fig.3).

            Or have dual VM and LM setup (Fig.4), where you equilibrate & draw off heads & foreshots as liquid (easier to concentrate & manage/measure), then switch to vapour for the main run & tails.  Best of all worlds.  One design fits all.

            Slainte!
            regards Harry

          • bursal2
            Hi All, A couple of questions, 1. Sizing of the VM takeoff to the gate valve and Liebig, is this critical can it be say 1 for the section with the gate valve
            Message 5 of 25 , Feb 8, 2008
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              Hi All,

              A couple of questions,
              1. Sizing of the VM takeoff to the gate valve and Liebig, is this
              critical can it be say 1" for the section with the gate valve and 1/2"
              and 1" for the Liebig. Suggested length for the Liebig.

              2. Harry in any of your articles you don't mention column insulation,
              is it needed?

              Cheers
            • Harry
              ... 1/2 ... insulation, ... #1 Sizing the Takeoff Path. When you split a stream of vapour, it will divide according to the diameter of each path that the
              Message 6 of 25 , Feb 8, 2008
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                --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bursal2" <bursal@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hi All,
                >
                > A couple of questions,
                > 1. Sizing of the VM takeoff to the gate valve and Liebig, is this
                > critical can it be say 1" for the section with the gate valve and
                1/2"
                > and 1" for the Liebig. Suggested length for the Liebig.
                >
                > 2. Harry in any of your articles you don't mention column
                insulation,
                > is it needed?
                >
                > Cheers
                >


                #1 Sizing the Takeoff Path.

                When you split a stream of vapour, it will divide according to the
                diameter of each path that the vapour can follow . IOW if you have
                a 2" column, and a 1" sidepath, the split ratio is NOT 2 to 1 as you
                would expect. It is...

                Area of 2" = Pi x r^2 --> 3.1416 x 1 x 1 = 3.14"

                Area of 1" = Pi x r^2 --> 3.1416 x 0.5 x 0.5 = 0.79"

                Actual Ratio is 3.14 to 0.79 or nearly 4 to 1

                This means that if you build a column of 2" diameter and a 1" VM
                sidedraft, it will automatically have nominally 4 to 1 reflux, or
                80% reflux and 20% product takeoff.

                If you build it all out of 2" (column and sidedraft) then there will
                be an automatic ratio of 1 to 1 or 50% each, of reflux and product.
                You can then vary this ratio for higher (not lower) reflux by using
                a gate valve on the sidedraft arm to limit the amount of vapour
                entering the sidedraft for product takeoff.



                re Liebig sizing.

                The length of the liebig is directly dependent on the volume of
                vapour that it has to handle in any given timeslice. This volume in
                turn is dependent on the energy input to the column, and the
                refluxing ratio as set by design specs (pipe diameters) and/or
                gatevalve adjustment.
                It's all a matter of balance. For a nominal 1400watt input, you
                should be able to get away with a liebig of around 1" x 0.5" x 24".
                This will give a little margin for variation in vapour feed to the
                final condenser (the liebig). You can also vary the coolant speed
                in the liebig to have further control.



                #2 Column insulation, Is It Needed?

                Whether or not to insulate the column is dependent on several
                things...what product you want(pure white spirits or brown flavoured
                spirits), column materials (stainless or copper), and environment
                (ambient temperatures).

                For neutral white spirits, insulate the column.

                For brown flavoured spirits (whiskies, rums) don't insulate.

                For stainless columns, generally don't insulate (stainless has poor
                heat transfer and heat loss capabilities).

                For copper, generally insulate (high transfer & heat loss
                capabilities). Except in the following circumstances.

                If doing neutral spirits through a copper column, removing the
                insulation will increase the refluxing due to heatloss at the column
                walls, before the vapours reach the overhead condenser. Of course
                this is wasted power, and the same can be achieved by keeping the
                insulation, reducing the power input and increasing the coolant flow
                to the overhead condenser.

                No two stills are the same. Experiment with your rig and decide for
                yourself how you want to operate it. With the info I've given you,
                you will at least have an idea of what to expect and WHY these
                differences affect your end-product.


                HTH
                Slainte!
                regards Harry
              • bursal2
                Harry another question or two, A 2 gate valve is a large heavy piece of brass, not to mention the cost. Can the valve be on the bend above the liebig? My
                Message 7 of 25 , Feb 19, 2008
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                  Harry another question or two,

                  A 2" gate valve is a large heavy piece of brass, not to mention the
                  cost. Can the valve be on the bend above the liebig? My thinking is no
                  but I need to ask. I am trying limit the amount of brass in the system
                  and stainless steel blows out cost!

                  My thinking is 3' x 2" copper column, packed with copper
                  mesh/scrubbers, 2" vapor take off with brass gate valve, 1/2" x 30"
                  product tube with a 1" x 24" liebig. Followed by a parrot's beak,I
                  don't think I need to go to your shared design of the Ultimate
                  Parrot's Beak because of the liebig just above it.

                  The head will be as per your design.

                  I want to be able to store the column in sections so I think I will
                  use 2" joiners, braze the upper side to the column and slightly
                  stretch the lower side of the joiner so that I can slide together with
                  teflon
                  tape and if needed some flour paste.

                  Thanks Harry for great design and valuable assistance.

                  Cheers

                  Bursal
                • Harry
                  ... The restricting gate valve should be in the take-off sidearm to reduce its opening. Once the vapours begin their downward flow into the liebig condenser
                  Message 8 of 25 , Feb 19, 2008
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                    --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bursal2" <bursal@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Harry another question or two,
                    >
                    > A 2" gate valve is a large heavy piece of brass, not to mention the
                    > cost. Can the valve be on the bend above the liebig? My thinking is no
                    > but I need to ask. I am trying limit the amount of brass in the system
                    > and stainless steel blows out cost!
                    >
                    > My thinking is 3' x 2" copper column, packed with copper
                    > mesh/scrubbers, 2" vapor take off with brass gate valve, 1/2" x 30"
                    > product tube with a 1" x 24" liebig. Followed by a parrot's beak,I
                    > don't think I need to go to your shared design of the Ultimate
                    > Parrot's Beak because of the liebig just above it.
                    >
                    > The head will be as per your design.
                    >
                    > I want to be able to store the column in sections so I think I will
                    > use 2" joiners, braze the upper side to the column and slightly
                    > stretch the lower side of the joiner so that I can slide together with
                    > teflon  
                    > tape and if needed some flour paste.
                    >
                    > Thanks Harry for great design and valuable assistance.
                    >
                    > Cheers
                    >
                    > Bursal
                    >

                    The restricting gate valve should be in the take-off sidearm to reduce its opening.  Once the vapours begin their downward flow into the liebig condenser section, a valve will  do little to restrict them.  It would only restrict as a complete shut-off.  Otherwise it's a venturi which only speeds up the vapour flow in that section.

                    Make sure you treat all brass parts by pickling as per this message...http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/32452

                    A 1" bore liebig will require a couple of copper scrubbies or mesh to be placed inside to spread the vapour and allow contact with cold surfaces.  Otherwise some vapour will just fall through.

                    If you intend to make the column a break-apart, then put the joiners on the uppermost sections as per below.  Teflon tape the slip-joins.  This will help prevent leakages.  A still column and condensers built like this will last you (and probably your descendants) a lifetime.  Good luck with your build.

                    Slainte!
                    regards Harry
                    http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/


                  • Trid
                    ... Aye...mine s a break-down modular in a similar vein. I find that condensation along the walls of the column make an adequate seal at joints. I ve never
                    Message 9 of 25 , Feb 19, 2008
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                      --- Harry <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:

                      > If you intend to make the column a break-apart, then put the joiners on
                      > the uppermost sections as per below. Teflon tape the slip-joins. This
                      > will help prevent leakages. A still column and condensers built like
                      > this will last you (and probably your descendants) a lifetime. Good
                      > luck with your build.

                      Aye...mine's a break-down modular in a similar vein. I find that condensation
                      along the walls of the column make an adequate seal at joints. I've never
                      experienced leaking with no additional effort given towards making a seal
                      (tested both with the water/visible steam and soap bubble methods).

                      Also, a note for clarity (not sure if this is US-centric, or applicable in
                      other countries) but what is shown in the illustration labeled as a "union"
                      would be called a "coupling" in the states. A union is a two-part threaded
                      joiner that seals due to the threaded collar tightening down on the other half.
                      This thing:
                      http://www.doityourself.com/invt/2256733
                      Aside: that's a link for a 2" union...the price seems incredibly low
                      considering current copper prices (I would expect $55.00+)

                      Trid
                      -
                    • abbababbaccc
                      One inch takeoff from column is plenty for a 2 VM column. You do not have to go to 2 takeoff unless you really want to. I m using 20mm takeoff and that s
                      Message 10 of 25 , Feb 20, 2008
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                        One inch takeoff from column is plenty for a 2" VM column. You do
                        not have to go to 2" takeoff unless you really want to. I'm using
                        20mm takeoff and that's enough to provide 1 liter per hour 95.6%
                        neutral stuff.

                        Cheers, Riku

                        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                        <mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com> ,
                        > "bursal2" <bursal@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > Harry another question or two,
                        > >
                        > > A 2" gate valve is a large heavy piece of brass, not to mention
                        the
                        > > cost. Can the valve be on the bend above the liebig? My thinking
                        is no
                        > > but I need to ask. I am trying limit the amount of brass in the
                        system
                        > > and stainless steel blows out cost!
                        > >
                        > > My thinking is 3' x 2" copper column, packed with copper
                        > > mesh/scrubbers, 2" vapor take off with brass gate valve, 1/2" x
                        30"
                        > > product tube with a 1" x 24" liebig. Followed by a parrot's
                        beak,I
                        > > don't think I need to go to your shared design of the Ultimate
                        > > Parrot's Beak because of the liebig just above it.
                        > >
                        > > The head will be as per your design.
                        > >
                        > > I want to be able to store the column in sections so I think I
                        will
                        > > use 2" joiners, braze the upper side to the column and slightly
                        > > stretch the lower side of the joiner so that I can slide
                        together with
                        > > teflon
                        > > tape and if needed some flour paste.
                        > >
                        > > Thanks Harry for great design and valuable assistance.
                        > >
                        > > Cheers
                        > >
                        > > Bursal
                        > >
                        >
                        > The restricting gate valve should be in the take-off sidearm to
                        reduce
                        > its opening. Once the vapours begin their downward flow into the
                        liebig
                        > condenser section, a valve will do little to restrict them. It
                        would
                        > only restrict as a complete shut-off. Otherwise it's a venturi
                        which
                        > only speeds up the vapour flow in that section.
                        >
                        > Make sure you treat all brass parts by pickling as per this
                        > message...http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/32452
                        >
                        > A 1" bore liebig will require a couple of copper scrubbies or mesh
                        to be
                        > placed inside to spread the vapour and allow contact with cold
                        surfaces.
                        > Otherwise some vapour will just fall through.
                        >
                        > If you intend to make the column a break-apart, then put the
                        joiners on
                        > the uppermost sections as per below. Teflon tape the slip-joins.
                        This
                        > will help prevent leakages. A still column and condensers built
                        like
                        > this will last you (and probably your descendants) a lifetime.
                        Good
                        > luck with your build.
                        >
                        > Slainte!
                        > regards Harry
                        > http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/
                        > <http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/>
                        >
                      • br0nwyn1
                        ... Would a 1 take off still work for a 3 vm column?
                        Message 11 of 25 , Feb 20, 2008
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                          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@...>
                          wrote:
                          >
                          > One inch takeoff from column is plenty for a 2" VM column. You do
                          > not have to go to 2" takeoff unless you really want to. I'm using
                          > 20mm takeoff and that's enough to provide 1 liter per hour 95.6%
                          > neutral stuff.
                          >
                          > Cheers, Riku
                          >



                          Would a 1" take off still work for a 3" vm column?
                        • abbababbaccc
                          Haven t tried that but I d say it works, especially if you introduce a vertical drop before the condenser. This would create an inverse chimney effect which
                          Message 12 of 25 , Feb 20, 2008
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                            Haven't tried that but I'd say it works, especially if you introduce a
                            vertical drop before the condenser. This would create an inverse
                            chimney effect which would mean that the valve in practise becomes a
                            throttle body making the area ratio less relevant.

                            Cheers, Riku

                            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "br0nwyn1" <jmcallister@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@>
                            > wrote:
                            > >
                            > > One inch takeoff from column is plenty for a 2" VM column. You do
                            > > not have to go to 2" takeoff unless you really want to. I'm using
                            > > 20mm takeoff and that's enough to provide 1 liter per hour 95.6%
                            > > neutral stuff.
                            > >
                            > > Cheers, Riku
                            > >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Would a 1" take off still work for a 3" vm column?
                            >
                          • bursal2
                            ... Thanks Harry, I thought there was good reason for placing the gate valve on the vapour takeoff, now I know. The liebig will have a ½ bore and the water
                            Message 13 of 25 , Feb 20, 2008
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                              --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
                              > >
                              >
                              > The restricting gate valve should be in the take-off sidearm to reduce
                              > its opening. Once the vapours begin their downward flow into the liebig
                              > condenser section, a valve will do little to restrict them. It would
                              > only restrict as a complete shut-off. Otherwise it's a venturi which
                              > only speeds up the vapour flow in that section.
                              >
                              > Make sure you treat all brass parts by pickling as per this
                              > message...http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/32452
                              >
                              > A 1" bore liebig will require a couple of copper scrubbies or mesh to be
                              > placed inside to spread the vapour and allow contact with cold surfaces.
                              > Otherwise some vapour will just fall through.
                              >
                              > If you intend to make the column a break-apart, then put the joiners on
                              > the uppermost sections as per below. Teflon tape the slip-joins. This
                              > will help prevent leakages. A still column and condensers built like
                              > this will last you (and probably your descendants) a lifetime. Good
                              > luck with your build.
                              >
                              > Slainte!
                              > regards Harry
                              > http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/
                              > <http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/>
                              >
                              Thanks Harry, I thought there was good reason for placing the gate
                              valve on the vapour takeoff, now I know.

                              The liebig will have a ½" bore and the water jacket will be 1", sorry
                              my terminology was confusing.

                              Yes, I am aware of the problems with brass and the need pickling. The
                              problem is S/S is very expensive and I would not use 2nd hand gate
                              valves, either brass or S/S because you don't know what has been
                              through them. I will not use 2nd hand brass for the same reason.

                              Thanks for diagram of the joins, I was going to put the brazed joint
                              on the wrong side.

                              Cheers
                              Bursal
                            • bursal2
                              ... joiners on ... This ... condensation ... never ... seal ... applicable in ... union ... threaded ... other half. ... Yes, I meant coupling not union.
                              Message 14 of 25 , Feb 20, 2008
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                                --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Trid <triddlywinks@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > --- Harry <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > > If you intend to make the column a break-apart, then put the
                                joiners on
                                > > the uppermost sections as per below. Teflon tape the slip-joins.
                                This
                                > > will help prevent leakages. A still column and condensers built like
                                > > this will last you (and probably your descendants) a lifetime. Good
                                > > luck with your build.
                                >
                                > Aye...mine's a break-down modular in a similar vein. I find that
                                condensation
                                > along the walls of the column make an adequate seal at joints. I've
                                never
                                > experienced leaking with no additional effort given towards making a
                                seal
                                > (tested both with the water/visible steam and soap bubble methods).
                                >
                                > Also, a note for clarity (not sure if this is US-centric, or
                                applicable in
                                > other countries) but what is shown in the illustration labeled as a
                                "union"
                                > would be called a "coupling" in the states. A union is a two-part
                                threaded
                                > joiner that seals due to the threaded collar tightening down on the
                                other half.
                                > This thing:
                                > http://www.doityourself.com/invt/2256733
                                > Aside: that's a link for a 2" union...the price seems incredibly low
                                > considering current copper prices (I would expect $55.00+)
                                >
                                > Trid
                                > -
                                >
                                Yes, I meant coupling not union. When I was replying I kept all my
                                measurements in imperial units because I thought many of the readers
                                would be more used to them. Because of my age I can remember the days
                                of inches and feet in Ozland.

                                Cheers
                                Bursal
                              • bursal2
                                ... Thanks,if I could get 1lt per hour at 95.6% of neutral spirit I would be more than happy. Using 1 takes some of the weight off the column and gives it
                                Message 15 of 25 , Feb 20, 2008
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                                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@...>
                                  wrote:
                                  >
                                  > One inch takeoff from column is plenty for a 2" VM column. You do
                                  > not have to go to 2" takeoff unless you really want to. I'm using
                                  > 20mm takeoff and that's enough to provide 1 liter per hour 95.6%
                                  > neutral stuff.
                                  >
                                  > Cheers, Riku
                                  >
                                  Thanks,if I could get 1lt per hour at 95.6% of neutral spirit I would
                                  be more than happy. Using 1" takes some of the weight off the column
                                  and gives it better balance.

                                  Cheers
                                  Bursal
                                • bursal2
                                  ... liebig ... to be ... surfaces. ... joiners on ... This ... An update and some questions. I managed to find 2 new, 316 3 piece S/S ball valves with PTFE
                                  Message 16 of 25 , Feb 24, 2008
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                                    --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bursal2" <bursal@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    > > The restricting gate valve should be in the take-off sidearm to reduce
                                    > > its opening. Once the vapours begin their downward flow into the
                                    liebig
                                    > > condenser section, a valve will do little to restrict them. It would
                                    > > only restrict as a complete shut-off. Otherwise it's a venturi which
                                    > > only speeds up the vapour flow in that section.
                                    > >
                                    > > Make sure you treat all brass parts by pickling as per this
                                    > > message...http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/32452
                                    > >
                                    > > A 1" bore liebig will require a couple of copper scrubbies or mesh
                                    to be
                                    > > placed inside to spread the vapour and allow contact with cold
                                    surfaces.
                                    > > Otherwise some vapour will just fall through.
                                    > >
                                    > > If you intend to make the column a break-apart, then put the
                                    joiners on
                                    > > the uppermost sections as per below. Teflon tape the slip-joins.
                                    This
                                    > > will help prevent leakages. A still column and condensers built like
                                    > > this will last you (and probably your descendants) a lifetime. Good
                                    > > luck with your build.
                                    > >
                                    > > Slainte!
                                    > > regards Harry
                                    > > http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/
                                    > > <http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/>
                                    > >
                                    > Thanks Harry, I thought there was good reason for placing the gate
                                    > valve on the vapour takeoff, now I know.
                                    >
                                    > The liebig will have a ½" bore and the water jacket will be 1", sorry
                                    > my terminology was confusing.
                                    >
                                    > Yes, I am aware of the problems with brass and the need pickling. The
                                    > problem is S/S is very expensive and I would not use 2nd hand gate
                                    > valves, either brass or S/S because you don't know what has been
                                    > through them. I will not use 2nd hand brass for the same reason.
                                    >
                                    > Thanks for diagram of the joins, I was going to put the brazed joint
                                    > on the wrong side.
                                    >
                                    > Cheers
                                    > Bursal
                                    >
                                    An update and some questions.

                                    I managed to find 2 new, 316 3 piece S/S ball valves with PTFE seats,
                                    one 2" and the other is 1" for $100 delivered, that's solved the valve
                                    problem. Slowly gathering all the copper bits and pieces.

                                    Questions:

                                    If I want to use the column for beer stripping can I replace the
                                    condenser head with a stopper and thermometer, at the top of tee for
                                    the vapour takeoff, and remove the copper
                                    packing.

                                    As I am making the column so that it can be dismantled is there any
                                    advantage in using a short column for stripping.

                                    Are the following distances critical, if so can you make some
                                    recommendations? -

                                    From vapour takeoff to condenser.

                                    Length of vapour takeoff.

                                    I am sure I have seen recommendations for distance for packing from
                                    top of boiler and from thermometer but I can't find them, can someone
                                    please enlighten me.

                                    Thanks
                                    Bursal
                                  • abbababbaccc
                                    ... seats, ... valve ... for ... someone ... Stripping and column packing. Based on my experiments you will get much more concentrated head and slightly more
                                    Message 17 of 25 , Feb 25, 2008
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                                      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bursal2" <bursal@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > An update and some questions.
                                      >
                                      > I managed to find 2 new, 316 3 piece S/S ball valves with PTFE
                                      seats,
                                      > one 2" and the other is 1" for $100 delivered, that's solved the
                                      valve
                                      > problem. Slowly gathering all the copper bits and pieces.
                                      >
                                      > Questions:
                                      >
                                      > If I want to use the column for beer stripping can I replace the
                                      > condenser head with a stopper and thermometer, at the top of tee
                                      for
                                      > the vapour takeoff, and remove the copper
                                      > packing.
                                      >
                                      > As I am making the column so that it can be dismantled is there any
                                      > advantage in using a short column for stripping.
                                      >
                                      > Are the following distances critical, if so can you make some
                                      > recommendations? -
                                      >
                                      > From vapour takeoff to condenser.
                                      >
                                      > Length of vapour takeoff.
                                      >
                                      > I am sure I have seen recommendations for distance for packing from
                                      > top of boiler and from thermometer but I can't find them, can
                                      someone
                                      > please enlighten me.
                                      >
                                      > Thanks
                                      > Bursal

                                      Stripping and column packing. Based on my experiments you will get
                                      much more concentrated head and slightly more concentrated tails if
                                      you leave the packing in and insulate the column. As the column
                                      heats up lots of reflux is generated and heads get concentrated.
                                      After that heat losses are small and there won't be much reflux
                                      which means only little concentration happens. You can increase the
                                      reflux by leaning out the insulation but then the speed gets down.

                                      Cheers, Riku
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