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Re: Help attaching still column to boiler

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  • sourkrout8165
    what i did i followed the same plans but when i got to that i used some 2 inch copper pipe i cut it down the side unrolled it and hammered it out and cut a
    Message 1 of 23 , Jul 1, 2007
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      what i did i followed the same plans but when i got to that i used
      some 2 inch copper pipe i cut it down the side unrolled it and
      hammered it out and cut a holev in the center with a dremel to slide
      over my 2 inch column pipe. then i soldered the home made flange
      straight to the still column. then i cut a hole in the mixing bowl
      for the column to slide in enough and i bolted it together with a
      cork gasket works great. i made the valved reflux making good 190
      proof. also use it as a pot still once in awhile.

      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Capillary joint and flange around it. Bolt on and seal with RTV
      > silicone. Column to joint connection is left unsoldered and is
      > sealed with PTFE tape when in use. Total cost ~20$.
      >
      > Cheers, Riku
      >
      > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thekingofworms.geo"
      > <halitosis63@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hello Friends,
      > >
      > > My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that
      could
      > > get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own
      still.
      > >
      > > I've been following the free online guide at
      > > http://www.moonshine-still.com/
      > >
      > > I've successfully created the column head (and not without some
      > > difficulty) now I'm faced with the difficult task of attaching the
      > > still head to the boiler, which in this case is a stainless steel
      > > half-keg.
      > >
      > > I have my own oxy-acetelyne torch, so I'm able to brazing/welding
      > the
      > > assembly together myself. Although I am only really experienced
      > with
      > > soft-steel I'm fairly confident I could weld stainless together
      > with
      > > some practice.
      > >
      > > The guide recommends creating a converter out of a stainless
      steel
      > pot
      > > that gets bolted to the half-keg. A stainless steel exhaust
      > flange, is
      > > supposed to get silver brazed to the pot.
      > >
      > > I have two issues with the suggested method. 1.) Why am I
      spending
      > the
      > > money silver brazing the assembly together if all I do is bolt
      the
      > pot
      > > to the keg at the end? This feels incredibly hacky. 2.) Price, a
      > > cadmium free silver alloy sells for about $70 - $90 where I live
      (I
      > > have yet to find a welding supply store that sells them in single
      > rods)
      > >
      > > I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a copper
      > > still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
      > > structurally robust method.
      > >
      > > Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.
      > >
      > > -Jonathan
      > >
      >
    • thekingofworms.geo
      Thanks everyone for their advice! Right now the option that looks most attractive to me is to buy th NPT adapter for the keg. I ll let you all know how it
      Message 2 of 23 , Jul 2, 2007
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        Thanks everyone for their advice! Right now the option that looks
        most attractive to me is to buy th NPT adapter for the keg. I'll let
        you all know how it goes.

        -J


        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sourkrout8165"
        <sourkrout8165@...> wrote:
        >
        > what i did i followed the same plans but when i got to that i used
        > some 2 inch copper pipe i cut it down the side unrolled it and
        > hammered it out and cut a holev in the center with a dremel to
        slide
        > over my 2 inch column pipe. then i soldered the home made flange
        > straight to the still column. then i cut a hole in the mixing bowl
        > for the column to slide in enough and i bolted it together with a
        > cork gasket works great. i made the valved reflux making good 190
        > proof. also use it as a pot still once in awhile.
        >
        > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > Capillary joint and flange around it. Bolt on and seal with RTV
        > > silicone. Column to joint connection is left unsoldered and is
        > > sealed with PTFE tape when in use. Total cost ~20$.
        > >
        > > Cheers, Riku
        > >
        > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thekingofworms.geo"
        > > <halitosis63@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Hello Friends,
        > > >
        > > > My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that
        > could
        > > > get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own
        > still.
        > > >
        > > > I've been following the free online guide at
        > > > http://www.moonshine-still.com/
        > > >
        > > > I've successfully created the column head (and not without some
        > > > difficulty) now I'm faced with the difficult task of attaching
        the
        > > > still head to the boiler, which in this case is a stainless
        steel
        > > > half-keg.
        > > >
        > > > I have my own oxy-acetelyne torch, so I'm able to
        brazing/welding
        > > the
        > > > assembly together myself. Although I am only really
        experienced
        > > with
        > > > soft-steel I'm fairly confident I could weld stainless
        together
        > > with
        > > > some practice.
        > > >
        > > > The guide recommends creating a converter out of a stainless
        > steel
        > > pot
        > > > that gets bolted to the half-keg. A stainless steel exhaust
        > > flange, is
        > > > supposed to get silver brazed to the pot.
        > > >
        > > > I have two issues with the suggested method. 1.) Why am I
        > spending
        > > the
        > > > money silver brazing the assembly together if all I do is bolt
        > the
        > > pot
        > > > to the keg at the end? This feels incredibly hacky. 2.) Price,
        a
        > > > cadmium free silver alloy sells for about $70 - $90 where I
        live
        > (I
        > > > have yet to find a welding supply store that sells them in
        single
        > > rods)
        > > >
        > > > I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a
        copper
        > > > still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
        > > > structurally robust method.
        > > >
        > > > Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.
        > > >
        > > > -Jonathan
        > > >
        > >
        >
      • larry_the_doc
        I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation. I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
        Message 3 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
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          I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
          I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
        • Dave
          Have a look here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links
          Message 4 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
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            Or Tiny URL    http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5       Yahoo screws up links regularly  




            From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
            To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
            Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler

             

            I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
            I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?


          • larry_the_doc
            Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn t need a clamp, just a gasket. I
            Message 5 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
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              Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
              I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
              Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?

              --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@...> wrote:
              >
              > Have a look
              > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
              >
              > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ________________________________
              > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
              > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
              > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
              > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
              >
              >
              > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
              > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
              > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
              >
            • Harry
              ... ... 2 reasons... 1. People have mortgages to pay & kids to feed. 2. Everything in UK is overpriced to buggery. Slainte! regards Harry
              Message 6 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
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                --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
                >
                <snip>
                > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?


                2 reasons...

                1. People have mortgages to pay & kids to feed.

                2. Everything in UK is overpriced to buggery.


                Slainte!
                regards Harry
              • joe giffen
                Hi, This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:- http://www.millstainless.co.uk/ Regards Joe ... From: larry_the_doc Subject:
                Message 7 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
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                  Hi,
                  This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:-
                  http://www.millstainless.co.uk/

                  Regards
                  Joe

                  --- On Thu, 16/9/10, larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:

                  From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                  Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                  To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  Date: Thursday, 16 September, 2010, 15:26

                   
                  Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
                  I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
                  Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?

                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Have a look
                  > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
                  >
                  > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ________________________________
                  > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                  > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
                  > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                  >
                  >
                  > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                  > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
                  > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
                  >


                • rosnekcaj
                  Basically prices get set by: They have it, and you want it! rosnekcaj
                  Message 8 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
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                    Basically prices get set by:

                    They have it, and you want it!

                    rosnekcaj

                    ---In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > <snip>
                    > > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?
                    >
                    >
                    > 2 reasons...
                    >
                    > 1. People have mortgages to pay & kids to feed.
                    >
                    > 2. Everything in UK is overpriced to buggery.
                    >
                    >
                    > Slainte!
                    > regards Harry
                    >
                  • larry_the_doc
                    Thanks for the UK supplier link, I emailed them this morning. Without getting into too much economics, my point was that surely both US and UK retailers will
                    Message 9 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
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                      Thanks for the UK supplier link, I emailed them this morning.

                      Without getting into too much economics, my point was that surely both US and UK retailers will have similar costs, so why so much difference?
                      I don't think I want anything so much that I would pay 4 times the real price for it!

                      The mile hi solution is ok, your column soldered onto a fitting that screws into a flanged fitting which is joined using a clamp to the keg.

                      How much more elegent would be a column soldered onto a fitting that screws into the keg.
                    • PhilipWilson
                      ... I made such a fitting using the threaded piece you remove from the keg when you open it, together with a copper spacer and slip joint. It worked fine
                      Message 10 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
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                        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
                        >
                        ...
                        >
                        > How much more elegent would be a column soldered onto a fitting that screws into the keg.
                        >

                        I made such a fitting using the threaded piece you remove from the keg when you "open" it, together with a copper spacer and slip joint. It worked fine and I used it for years, but I found screwing and unscrewing the column somewhat unwieldy, so I moved on to a tri-clamp setup.
                      • rosnekcaj
                        I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2 NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned
                        Message 11 of 23 , Sep 18, 2010
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                          I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2" NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned square and plumb with the keg. I use teflon tape on the threads when screwing the 2" copper column to the keg.

                          I also added a 1" NPT female stainless fitting at the bottom to which I screwed on a gate valve to allow for draining.
                          I insulated the keg and my heat is furnished via a home made hot plate constructed using a 220 volt heating element from an electric range.
                          I also designed and built a circuit (operating at 1 Hz) to control the duty factor of the power going to the element to provide continuous control for the desired heat without the surge one would get using the conventional thermostatic heat control assembly used on the electric range.

                          Shortcomings in my setup:
                          1. The surface of the keg on the bottom is somewhat curved (spherical) and one would get better heat transfer if the bottom were flat.

                          2. I only can wash and rinse with hose pressure bec because I can't get my hand through the 2" inch fitting to better clean the unit, although the unit does look clean.

                          However,I am very satisfied with the setup.

                          rosnekcaj


                          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, joe giffen <joegiffen@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Hi,
                          > This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:-
                          > http://www.millstainless.co.uk/
                          >
                          > Regards
                          > Joe
                          >
                          > --- On Thu, 16/9/10, larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                          > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                          > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                          > Date: Thursday, 16 September, 2010, 15:26
                          >
                          >
                          >  
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
                          > I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
                          > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?
                          >
                          > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > Have a look
                          > > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
                          > >
                          > > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > ________________________________
                          > > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@>
                          > > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                          > > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
                          > > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                          > > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
                          > > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
                          > >
                          >
                        • thursty2
                          rosnekaj, Are you able to provide details - in layman s terms - of the circuit you designed? I m interested in building such a controller. I am hoping to
                          Message 12 of 23 , Sep 18, 2010
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                            rosnekaj,

                            Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.

                            I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.

                            Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.

                            This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.

                            Thanks.

                            -----------------------------

                            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2" NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned square and plumb with the keg. I use teflon tape on the threads when screwing the 2" copper column to the keg.
                            >
                            > I also added a 1" NPT female stainless fitting at the bottom to which I screwed on a gate valve to allow for draining.
                            > I insulated the keg and my heat is furnished via a home made hot plate constructed using a 220 volt heating element from an electric range.
                            > I also designed and built a circuit (operating at 1 Hz) to control the duty factor of the power going to the element to provide continuous control for the desired heat without the surge one would get using the conventional thermostatic heat control assembly used on the electric range.
                            >
                            > Shortcomings in my setup:
                            > 1. The surface of the keg on the bottom is somewhat curved (spherical) and one would get better heat transfer if the bottom were flat.
                            >
                            > 2. I only can wash and rinse with hose pressure bec because I can't get my hand through the 2" inch fitting to better clean the unit, although the unit does look clean.
                            >
                            > However,I am very satisfied with the setup.
                            >
                            > rosnekcaj
                          • rosnekcaj
                            Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely. I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the
                            Message 13 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
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                              Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                              I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.

                              rosnekcaj

                              --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > rosnekaj,
                              >
                              > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                              >
                              > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                              >
                              > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                              >
                              > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                              >
                              > Thanks.
                              >
                              > -----------------------------
                              >
                            • Harry
                              ... There are some useful schematics in the Files section, left of screen on our group site (read the messages online in a browser & you ll see this)...
                              Message 14 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
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                                > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                > >
                                > > rosnekaj,
                                > >
                                > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                > >


                                There are some useful schematics in the Files section, left of screen on our group site (read the messages online in a browser & you'll see this)...
                                http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/files/Triac-circuits

                                http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/files/Still%20Controller/

                                Slainte!
                                regards Harry
                              • thursty2
                                rosnekcaj, Harry has provided links to scheme s which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I m sure I could accomplish what would
                                Message 15 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
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                                  rosnekcaj,

                                  Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.

                                  The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.

                                  http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02

                                  Thanks
                                  -------------------------------------------

                                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                  > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                  >
                                  > rosnekcaj
                                  >
                                  > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > > rosnekaj,
                                  > >
                                  > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                  > >
                                  > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                  > >
                                  > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                  > >
                                  > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                  > >
                                  > > Thanks.
                                  > >
                                  > > -----------------------------
                                  > >
                                  >
                                • rosnekcaj
                                  thurst2 I haven t forgotten you. Bear with me and I ll get the schematics for you. Probly sometime next week. rosnekcaj
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Sep 24, 2010
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                                    thurst2
                                    I haven't forgotten you. Bear with me and I'll get the schematics for you. Probly sometime next week.
                                    rosnekcaj

                                    --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > rosnekcaj,
                                    >
                                    > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                                    >
                                    > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                                    >
                                    > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                                    >
                                    > Thanks
                                    > -------------------------------------------
                                    >
                                    > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                    > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                    > >
                                    > > rosnekcaj
                                    > >
                                    > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > rosnekaj,
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Thanks.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > -----------------------------
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    >
                                  • rosnekcaj
                                    thursty2: I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don t know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Sep 27, 2010
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      thursty2:

                                      I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
                                      If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.

                                      rosnekcaj


                                      >
                                      > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > rosnekcaj,
                                      > >
                                      > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                                      > >
                                      > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                                      > >
                                      > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                                      > >
                                      > > Thanks
                                      > > -------------------------------------------
                                      > >
                                      > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                      > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > rosnekcaj
                                      > > >
                                      > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > rosnekaj,
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Thanks.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > -----------------------------
                                      > > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      >
                                    • rosnekcaj
                                      I see that my email address didn t come through completely, so I ll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @. rosnekcaj
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Sep 28, 2010
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                                        I see that my email address didn't come through completely, so I'll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @.

                                        rosnekcaj

                                        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > thursty2:
                                        >
                                        > I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
                                        > If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.
                                        >
                                        > rosnekcaj
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > >
                                        > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > > rosnekcaj,
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Thanks
                                        > > > -------------------------------------------
                                        > > >
                                        > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                        > > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > rosnekcaj
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > rosnekaj,
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Thanks.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > -----------------------------
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > >
                                        >
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