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Help attaching still column to boiler

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  • thekingofworms.geo
    Hello Friends, My name is Jonathan, I ve just joined the group in hopes that could get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own still. I ve been
    Message 1 of 23 , Jun 27, 2007
      Hello Friends,

      My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that could
      get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own still.

      I've been following the free online guide at
      http://www.moonshine-still.com/

      I've successfully created the column head (and not without some
      difficulty) now I'm faced with the difficult task of attaching the
      still head to the boiler, which in this case is a stainless steel
      half-keg.

      I have my own oxy-acetelyne torch, so I'm able to brazing/welding the
      assembly together myself. Although I am only really experienced with
      soft-steel I'm fairly confident I could weld stainless together with
      some practice.

      The guide recommends creating a converter out of a stainless steel pot
      that gets bolted to the half-keg. A stainless steel exhaust flange, is
      supposed to get silver brazed to the pot.

      I have two issues with the suggested method. 1.) Why am I spending the
      money silver brazing the assembly together if all I do is bolt the pot
      to the keg at the end? This feels incredibly hacky. 2.) Price, a
      cadmium free silver alloy sells for about $70 - $90 where I live (I
      have yet to find a welding supply store that sells them in single rods)

      I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a copper
      still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
      structurally robust method.

      Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.

      -Jonathan
    • sn_cur
      ... Greetings, Jonathan Check this thread out, I was attaching a stainless column, not a copper one, but the principle is the same. My stainless was all welded
      Message 2 of 23 , Jun 27, 2007
        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thekingofworms.geo" <halitosis63@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hello Friends,
        >
        > My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that could
        > get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own still.
        >

        >
        > I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a copper
        > still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
        > structurally robust method.
        >
        > Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.
        >
        > -Jonathan
        >

        Greetings, Jonathan

        Check this thread out, I was attaching a stainless column, not a copper one, but the
        principle is the same. My stainless was all welded by a pro, but there is no reason you
        couldn't braze or soft solder the 50-40 mm BSP adapter onto the top of the keg opening
        instead of welding it.

        http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/messages/39795?
        threaded=1&m=e&var=1&tidx=1

        cheers
        sn
      • bbornais
        I never could get on to welding, so what I did was buy a SS 12in pan with a copper bottom. I cut a 10in hole in the sankey keg. I cut a 2in hole in the pan and
        Message 3 of 23 , Jun 27, 2007
          I never could get on to welding, so what I did was buy a SS 12in pan
          with a copper bottom.

          I cut a 10in hole in the sankey keg.

          I cut a 2in hole in the pan and cut the handle off.

          I used a copper fitting (2in female threaded) to fit in the hole in the
          pan.

          Flattented out some copper into 4in plates and drilled 2in holes in
          them.

          screwed them in on both sides of the pan, then soldered the fitting in.

          It is nice.

          I can email you pics if you are interested.

          Bryan.
        • abbababbaccc
          Capillary joint and flange around it. Bolt on and seal with RTV silicone. Column to joint connection is left unsoldered and is sealed with PTFE tape when in
          Message 4 of 23 , Jun 27, 2007
            Capillary joint and flange around it. Bolt on and seal with RTV
            silicone. Column to joint connection is left unsoldered and is
            sealed with PTFE tape when in use. Total cost ~20$.

            Cheers, Riku

            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thekingofworms.geo"
            <halitosis63@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hello Friends,
            >
            > My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that could
            > get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own still.
            >
            > I've been following the free online guide at
            > http://www.moonshine-still.com/
            >
            > I've successfully created the column head (and not without some
            > difficulty) now I'm faced with the difficult task of attaching the
            > still head to the boiler, which in this case is a stainless steel
            > half-keg.
            >
            > I have my own oxy-acetelyne torch, so I'm able to brazing/welding
            the
            > assembly together myself. Although I am only really experienced
            with
            > soft-steel I'm fairly confident I could weld stainless together
            with
            > some practice.
            >
            > The guide recommends creating a converter out of a stainless steel
            pot
            > that gets bolted to the half-keg. A stainless steel exhaust
            flange, is
            > supposed to get silver brazed to the pot.
            >
            > I have two issues with the suggested method. 1.) Why am I spending
            the
            > money silver brazing the assembly together if all I do is bolt the
            pot
            > to the keg at the end? This feels incredibly hacky. 2.) Price, a
            > cadmium free silver alloy sells for about $70 - $90 where I live (I
            > have yet to find a welding supply store that sells them in single
            rods)
            >
            > I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a copper
            > still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
            > structurally robust method.
            >
            > Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.
            >
            > -Jonathan
            >
          • Tony T
            I use a Tri-Clamp to NPT Coupler, a Tri-Clamp, and a gasket to attach to the top of my 15 gallon keg. Then just use a 2 inch female adaptor on the end of your
            Message 5 of 23 , Jun 28, 2007
              I use a Tri-Clamp to NPT Coupler, a Tri-Clamp, and a
              gasket to attach to the top of my 15 gallon keg. Then
              just use a 2 inch female adaptor on the end of your
              colunm to just screw the colunm on. You can get all
              the Tri-Clamp stuff at Brewhaus
              http://tinyurl.com/2wcran

              Later,
              Tony


              ____________________________________________________________________________________
              Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
            • sourkrout8165
              what i did i followed the same plans but when i got to that i used some 2 inch copper pipe i cut it down the side unrolled it and hammered it out and cut a
              Message 6 of 23 , Jul 1 9:10 AM
                what i did i followed the same plans but when i got to that i used
                some 2 inch copper pipe i cut it down the side unrolled it and
                hammered it out and cut a holev in the center with a dremel to slide
                over my 2 inch column pipe. then i soldered the home made flange
                straight to the still column. then i cut a hole in the mixing bowl
                for the column to slide in enough and i bolted it together with a
                cork gasket works great. i made the valved reflux making good 190
                proof. also use it as a pot still once in awhile.

                --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > Capillary joint and flange around it. Bolt on and seal with RTV
                > silicone. Column to joint connection is left unsoldered and is
                > sealed with PTFE tape when in use. Total cost ~20$.
                >
                > Cheers, Riku
                >
                > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thekingofworms.geo"
                > <halitosis63@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hello Friends,
                > >
                > > My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that
                could
                > > get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own
                still.
                > >
                > > I've been following the free online guide at
                > > http://www.moonshine-still.com/
                > >
                > > I've successfully created the column head (and not without some
                > > difficulty) now I'm faced with the difficult task of attaching the
                > > still head to the boiler, which in this case is a stainless steel
                > > half-keg.
                > >
                > > I have my own oxy-acetelyne torch, so I'm able to brazing/welding
                > the
                > > assembly together myself. Although I am only really experienced
                > with
                > > soft-steel I'm fairly confident I could weld stainless together
                > with
                > > some practice.
                > >
                > > The guide recommends creating a converter out of a stainless
                steel
                > pot
                > > that gets bolted to the half-keg. A stainless steel exhaust
                > flange, is
                > > supposed to get silver brazed to the pot.
                > >
                > > I have two issues with the suggested method. 1.) Why am I
                spending
                > the
                > > money silver brazing the assembly together if all I do is bolt
                the
                > pot
                > > to the keg at the end? This feels incredibly hacky. 2.) Price, a
                > > cadmium free silver alloy sells for about $70 - $90 where I live
                (I
                > > have yet to find a welding supply store that sells them in single
                > rods)
                > >
                > > I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a copper
                > > still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
                > > structurally robust method.
                > >
                > > Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.
                > >
                > > -Jonathan
                > >
                >
              • thekingofworms.geo
                Thanks everyone for their advice! Right now the option that looks most attractive to me is to buy th NPT adapter for the keg. I ll let you all know how it
                Message 7 of 23 , Jul 2 5:59 AM
                  Thanks everyone for their advice! Right now the option that looks
                  most attractive to me is to buy th NPT adapter for the keg. I'll let
                  you all know how it goes.

                  -J


                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sourkrout8165"
                  <sourkrout8165@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > what i did i followed the same plans but when i got to that i used
                  > some 2 inch copper pipe i cut it down the side unrolled it and
                  > hammered it out and cut a holev in the center with a dremel to
                  slide
                  > over my 2 inch column pipe. then i soldered the home made flange
                  > straight to the still column. then i cut a hole in the mixing bowl
                  > for the column to slide in enough and i bolted it together with a
                  > cork gasket works great. i made the valved reflux making good 190
                  > proof. also use it as a pot still once in awhile.
                  >
                  > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@>
                  > wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Capillary joint and flange around it. Bolt on and seal with RTV
                  > > silicone. Column to joint connection is left unsoldered and is
                  > > sealed with PTFE tape when in use. Total cost ~20$.
                  > >
                  > > Cheers, Riku
                  > >
                  > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thekingofworms.geo"
                  > > <halitosis63@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > Hello Friends,
                  > > >
                  > > > My name is Jonathan, I've just joined the group in hopes that
                  > could
                  > > > get a little guidance. I am in the process of making my own
                  > still.
                  > > >
                  > > > I've been following the free online guide at
                  > > > http://www.moonshine-still.com/
                  > > >
                  > > > I've successfully created the column head (and not without some
                  > > > difficulty) now I'm faced with the difficult task of attaching
                  the
                  > > > still head to the boiler, which in this case is a stainless
                  steel
                  > > > half-keg.
                  > > >
                  > > > I have my own oxy-acetelyne torch, so I'm able to
                  brazing/welding
                  > > the
                  > > > assembly together myself. Although I am only really
                  experienced
                  > > with
                  > > > soft-steel I'm fairly confident I could weld stainless
                  together
                  > > with
                  > > > some practice.
                  > > >
                  > > > The guide recommends creating a converter out of a stainless
                  > steel
                  > > pot
                  > > > that gets bolted to the half-keg. A stainless steel exhaust
                  > > flange, is
                  > > > supposed to get silver brazed to the pot.
                  > > >
                  > > > I have two issues with the suggested method. 1.) Why am I
                  > spending
                  > > the
                  > > > money silver brazing the assembly together if all I do is bolt
                  > the
                  > > pot
                  > > > to the keg at the end? This feels incredibly hacky. 2.) Price,
                  a
                  > > > cadmium free silver alloy sells for about $70 - $90 where I
                  live
                  > (I
                  > > > have yet to find a welding supply store that sells them in
                  single
                  > > rods)
                  > > >
                  > > > I was wondering if any of you have had success attaching a
                  copper
                  > > > still head to a stainless steel keg using a cheaper, and more
                  > > > structurally robust method.
                  > > >
                  > > > Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give.
                  > > >
                  > > > -Jonathan
                  > > >
                  > >
                  >
                • larry_the_doc
                  I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation. I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
                  Message 8 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
                    I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                    I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
                  • Dave
                    Have a look here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links
                    Message 9 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010

                      Or Tiny URL    http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5       Yahoo screws up links regularly  




                      From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                      To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
                      Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler

                       

                      I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                      I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?


                    • larry_the_doc
                      Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn t need a clamp, just a gasket. I
                      Message 10 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
                        Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
                        I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
                        Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?

                        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Have a look
                        > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
                        >
                        > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > ________________________________
                        > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                        > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                        > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
                        > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                        >
                        >
                        > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                        > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
                        > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
                        >
                      • Harry
                        ... ... 2 reasons... 1. People have mortgages to pay & kids to feed. 2. Everything in UK is overpriced to buggery. Slainte! regards Harry
                        Message 11 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
                          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
                          >
                          <snip>
                          > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?


                          2 reasons...

                          1. People have mortgages to pay & kids to feed.

                          2. Everything in UK is overpriced to buggery.


                          Slainte!
                          regards Harry
                        • joe giffen
                          Hi, This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:- http://www.millstainless.co.uk/ Regards Joe ... From: larry_the_doc Subject:
                          Message 12 of 23 , Sep 16, 2010
                            Hi,
                            This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:-
                            http://www.millstainless.co.uk/

                            Regards
                            Joe

                            --- On Thu, 16/9/10, larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:

                            From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                            Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                            To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                            Date: Thursday, 16 September, 2010, 15:26

                             
                            Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
                            I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
                            Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?

                            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Have a look
                            > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
                            >
                            > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > ________________________________
                            > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                            > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                            > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
                            > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                            >
                            >
                            > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                            > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
                            > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
                            >


                          • rosnekcaj
                            Basically prices get set by: They have it, and you want it! rosnekcaj
                            Message 13 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
                              Basically prices get set by:

                              They have it, and you want it!

                              rosnekcaj

                              ---In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@> wrote:
                              > >
                              > <snip>
                              > > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?
                              >
                              >
                              > 2 reasons...
                              >
                              > 1. People have mortgages to pay & kids to feed.
                              >
                              > 2. Everything in UK is overpriced to buggery.
                              >
                              >
                              > Slainte!
                              > regards Harry
                              >
                            • larry_the_doc
                              Thanks for the UK supplier link, I emailed them this morning. Without getting into too much economics, my point was that surely both US and UK retailers will
                              Message 14 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
                                Thanks for the UK supplier link, I emailed them this morning.

                                Without getting into too much economics, my point was that surely both US and UK retailers will have similar costs, so why so much difference?
                                I don't think I want anything so much that I would pay 4 times the real price for it!

                                The mile hi solution is ok, your column soldered onto a fitting that screws into a flanged fitting which is joined using a clamp to the keg.

                                How much more elegent would be a column soldered onto a fitting that screws into the keg.
                              • PhilipWilson
                                ... I made such a fitting using the threaded piece you remove from the keg when you open it, together with a copper spacer and slip joint. It worked fine
                                Message 15 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
                                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  ...
                                  >
                                  > How much more elegent would be a column soldered onto a fitting that screws into the keg.
                                  >

                                  I made such a fitting using the threaded piece you remove from the keg when you "open" it, together with a copper spacer and slip joint. It worked fine and I used it for years, but I found screwing and unscrewing the column somewhat unwieldy, so I moved on to a tri-clamp setup.
                                • rosnekcaj
                                  I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2 NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Sep 18, 2010
                                    I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2" NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned square and plumb with the keg. I use teflon tape on the threads when screwing the 2" copper column to the keg.

                                    I also added a 1" NPT female stainless fitting at the bottom to which I screwed on a gate valve to allow for draining.
                                    I insulated the keg and my heat is furnished via a home made hot plate constructed using a 220 volt heating element from an electric range.
                                    I also designed and built a circuit (operating at 1 Hz) to control the duty factor of the power going to the element to provide continuous control for the desired heat without the surge one would get using the conventional thermostatic heat control assembly used on the electric range.

                                    Shortcomings in my setup:
                                    1. The surface of the keg on the bottom is somewhat curved (spherical) and one would get better heat transfer if the bottom were flat.

                                    2. I only can wash and rinse with hose pressure bec because I can't get my hand through the 2" inch fitting to better clean the unit, although the unit does look clean.

                                    However,I am very satisfied with the setup.

                                    rosnekcaj


                                    --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, joe giffen <joegiffen@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > Hi,
                                    > This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:-
                                    > http://www.millstainless.co.uk/
                                    >
                                    > Regards
                                    > Joe
                                    >
                                    > --- On Thu, 16/9/10, larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
                                    > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                                    > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                                    > Date: Thursday, 16 September, 2010, 15:26
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >  
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
                                    > I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
                                    > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?
                                    >
                                    > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > Have a look
                                    > > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
                                    > >
                                    > > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > ________________________________
                                    > > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@>
                                    > > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
                                    > > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
                                    > > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
                                    > > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
                                    > >
                                    >
                                  • thursty2
                                    rosnekaj, Are you able to provide details - in layman s terms - of the circuit you designed? I m interested in building such a controller. I am hoping to
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Sep 18, 2010
                                      rosnekaj,

                                      Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.

                                      I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.

                                      Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.

                                      This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.

                                      Thanks.

                                      -----------------------------

                                      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2" NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned square and plumb with the keg. I use teflon tape on the threads when screwing the 2" copper column to the keg.
                                      >
                                      > I also added a 1" NPT female stainless fitting at the bottom to which I screwed on a gate valve to allow for draining.
                                      > I insulated the keg and my heat is furnished via a home made hot plate constructed using a 220 volt heating element from an electric range.
                                      > I also designed and built a circuit (operating at 1 Hz) to control the duty factor of the power going to the element to provide continuous control for the desired heat without the surge one would get using the conventional thermostatic heat control assembly used on the electric range.
                                      >
                                      > Shortcomings in my setup:
                                      > 1. The surface of the keg on the bottom is somewhat curved (spherical) and one would get better heat transfer if the bottom were flat.
                                      >
                                      > 2. I only can wash and rinse with hose pressure bec because I can't get my hand through the 2" inch fitting to better clean the unit, although the unit does look clean.
                                      >
                                      > However,I am very satisfied with the setup.
                                      >
                                      > rosnekcaj
                                    • rosnekcaj
                                      Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely. I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
                                        Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                        I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.

                                        rosnekcaj

                                        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > rosnekaj,
                                        >
                                        > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                        >
                                        > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                        >
                                        > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                        >
                                        > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                        >
                                        > Thanks.
                                        >
                                        > -----------------------------
                                        >
                                      • Harry
                                        ... There are some useful schematics in the Files section, left of screen on our group site (read the messages online in a browser & you ll see this)...
                                        Message 19 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
                                          > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                          > >
                                          > > rosnekaj,
                                          > >
                                          > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                          > >


                                          There are some useful schematics in the Files section, left of screen on our group site (read the messages online in a browser & you'll see this)...
                                          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/files/Triac-circuits

                                          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/files/Still%20Controller/

                                          Slainte!
                                          regards Harry
                                        • thursty2
                                          rosnekcaj, Harry has provided links to scheme s which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I m sure I could accomplish what would
                                          Message 20 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
                                            rosnekcaj,

                                            Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.

                                            The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.

                                            http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02

                                            Thanks
                                            -------------------------------------------

                                            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                                            >
                                            > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                            > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                            >
                                            > rosnekcaj
                                            >
                                            > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                            > >
                                            > > rosnekaj,
                                            > >
                                            > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                            > >
                                            > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                            > >
                                            > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                            > >
                                            > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                            > >
                                            > > Thanks.
                                            > >
                                            > > -----------------------------
                                            > >
                                            >
                                          • rosnekcaj
                                            thurst2 I haven t forgotten you. Bear with me and I ll get the schematics for you. Probly sometime next week. rosnekcaj
                                            Message 21 of 23 , Sep 24, 2010
                                              thurst2
                                              I haven't forgotten you. Bear with me and I'll get the schematics for you. Probly sometime next week.
                                              rosnekcaj

                                              --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
                                              >
                                              > rosnekcaj,
                                              >
                                              > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                                              >
                                              > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                                              >
                                              > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                                              >
                                              > Thanks
                                              > -------------------------------------------
                                              >
                                              > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                                              > >
                                              > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                              > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                              > >
                                              > > rosnekcaj
                                              > >
                                              > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                              > > >
                                              > > > rosnekaj,
                                              > > >
                                              > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                              > > >
                                              > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                              > > >
                                              > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                              > > >
                                              > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                              > > >
                                              > > > Thanks.
                                              > > >
                                              > > > -----------------------------
                                              > > >
                                              > >
                                              >
                                            • rosnekcaj
                                              thursty2: I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don t know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files
                                              Message 22 of 23 , Sep 27, 2010
                                                thursty2:

                                                I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
                                                If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.

                                                rosnekcaj


                                                >
                                                > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                                > >
                                                > > rosnekcaj,
                                                > >
                                                > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                                                > >
                                                > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                                                > >
                                                > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                                                > >
                                                > > Thanks
                                                > > -------------------------------------------
                                                > >
                                                > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                                                > > >
                                                > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                                > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                                > > >
                                                > > > rosnekcaj
                                                > > >
                                                > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > rosnekaj,
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > Thanks.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > -----------------------------
                                                > > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > >
                                                >
                                              • rosnekcaj
                                                I see that my email address didn t come through completely, so I ll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @. rosnekcaj
                                                Message 23 of 23 , Sep 28, 2010
                                                  I see that my email address didn't come through completely, so I'll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @.

                                                  rosnekcaj

                                                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > thursty2:
                                                  >
                                                  > I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
                                                  > If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.
                                                  >
                                                  > rosnekcaj
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > >
                                                  > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > rosnekcaj,
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Thanks
                                                  > > > -------------------------------------------
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                                                  > > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > rosnekcaj
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > rosnekaj,
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > Thanks.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > -----------------------------
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > >
                                                  >
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