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Re: will this work for a element control?

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  • kirtgk
    trid do you use this router control or have you used it for element control?? ive read plenty of posts and ame at this point confused. use this someone says
    Message 1 of 9 , Feb 9, 2007
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      trid do you use this router control or have you used it for element
      control?? ive read plenty of posts and ame at this point confused. use
      this someone says and then someone says dont and all that.
      im not into electronics or schematics but i can solder and have fixed
      quite a few amplifiers for stereos and plenty of my kids toys that get
      the wires pulled out.
      take out the burnt part get new one solder in place hope it works
      kinda stuff.
      i know its pricey but the simplicity of just plugging it in and were
      off is inviting for us that dont have skills in building circuit
      boards, and getting the correct parts and putting the whole puzzel
      together.........

      kirtgk

      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Trid <triddlywinks@...> wrote:
      >
      > --- kirtgk <kirtgk@...> wrote:
      >
      > > http://www.heatersplus.com/18tp.htm
      > > i like the 240 volt one.
      >
      > Looks awfully spendy to me...IMHO. Especially if a router
      controller (up to
      > 15A) is under $30 US and essentially accomplishes the same.
      >
      > On a similar, speculative note, this led me to ponder this: I see
      no reason
      > why one could not install multiple heaters...say 3 at 1000W apiece,
      with an
      > individual router control on each. Dial all three up to full for
      the heat up,
      > and back them off as it comes time to tune your reflux. Absolute
      precision on
      > the settings would not be necessary, but adjusting all together would be
      > beneficial for relatively even heat distribution and wear. Combined
      with
      > installing the heaters evenly across the bottom, this could be an
      idea...and
      > potentially cost under $100 US to accomplish.
      >
      > Trid
      > -don't even get me started on the PID algorithm to automate the heater
      > controls...I'm such a geek
      >
    • Firefox
      IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very efficient controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I replaced the Triac
      Message 2 of 9 , Feb 12, 2007
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        IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very efficient controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I replaced the Triac with a 3KW+ power Triac and bypassed the choke, I fried it first LOL. I do realise that radio interference suppression is out the window but I have used it for several years now and it’s still working well.

         

        Just a little electrical knowledge and soldering practice required. DO NOT ATTEMPT this if not confident and qualified.

        Hope this helps, any comments welcome.

        Bob.


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      • anthony547357
        I got a controller for about £10 on the web. Also built one from a forum design on the web for less than £5. Sutronics charge about £27 new. I fitted in a
        Message 3 of 9 , Feb 13, 2007
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          I got a controller for about £10 on the web. Also built one from a
          forum design on the web for less than £5. Sutronics charge about £27
          new.

          I fitted in a multimeter to measure voltage and find about 50 volts
          is perfaect once you've got up to temperature.

          Interference. One of the designs included a simple feerite ring, but
          I haven't tried that although it's very straightforward.

          Tony


          -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Firefox" <foxyfoxy50@...> wrote:
          >
          > IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very
          efficient
          > controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I
          replaced the
          > Triac with a 3KW+ power Triac and bypassed the choke, I fried it
          first LOL.
          > I do realise that radio interference suppression is out the window
          but I
          > have used it for several years now and it's still working well.
          >
          >
          >
          > Just a little electrical knowledge and soldering practice
          required. DO NOT
          > ATTEMPT this if not confident and qualified.
          >
          > Hope this helps, any comments welcome.
          >
          > Bob.
          >
          >
          > --
          > No virus found in this outgoing message.
          > Checked by AVG.
          > Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.36/681 - Release Date:
          11/02/2007
          > 18:50
          >
        • anthony547357
          I think you were expecting a bit much from a light dimmer switch. I got my design off the Web or even the Forum. It uses a few simple parts (including a
          Message 4 of 9 , Mar 1, 2007
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            I think you were expecting a bit much from a light dimmer switch. I
            got my design off the Web or even the Forum. It uses a few simple
            parts (including a largish heat sink and also a fairly hefty Triac
            and Diac) that can be bought for less than £5.

            As a radio ham, I know that interference can be caused, and the
            usual way to cure this is to take a few turns of cable round a
            ferrite ring - I'd wait and see if you have any complaints first.
            The alternative to this is a United Automation controller from
            Southport, Lancs, but these cost around £27. These are very small
            and neat, and I believe are the basis for Sutronics controllers who
            are tart them up and put them in a box - and charge accordingly.

            In the end I got an industrial weight controller off the web and
            added a voltmeter and switch. The latter was not really necessary as
            you can unplug from the socket. The voltmeter is useful, however,
            and can be closely corelated to head temperature which I think is
            useful. I have found around 50 volts ac is typical once you've got
            up steam, driving a 3KW element from a washing machine.

            Tony

            -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Firefox" <foxyfoxy50@...> wrote:
            >
            > IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very
            efficient
            > controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I
            replaced the
            > Triac with a 3KW+ power Triac and bypassed the choke, I fried it
            first LOL.
            > I do realise that radio interference suppression is out the window
            but I
            > have used it for several years now and it's still working well.
            >
            >
            >
            > Just a little electrical knowledge and soldering practice
            required. DO NOT
            > ATTEMPT this if not confident and qualified.
            >
            > Hope this helps, any comments welcome.
            >
            > Bob.
            >
            >
            > --
            > No virus found in this outgoing message.
            > Checked by AVG.
            > Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.36/681 - Release Date:
            11/02/2007
            > 18:50
            >
          • Firefox
            You are obviously quite correct about the heatsink. I used a heavy duty aluminium box and attached the Triac with thermal compound. This works very well, the
            Message 5 of 9 , Mar 2, 2007
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              You are obviously quite correct about the heatsink. I used a heavy duty aluminium box and attached the Triac with thermal compound. This works very well, the box does get quite warm but not hot. The Triac I replaced the dimmer switch one with was a 25 Amp so capable of running a 6KW heater. The overall finished job was built for less than £10. I would of liked a switching controller but not cost effective.

              Bob.


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              No virus found in this outgoing message.
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