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Re: [Distillers] will this work for a element control?

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  • Derek Hamlet
    I live in Canada where the line voltage is 120v. My boiler has a 3000watt element (240volts) and a 1500 watt element (120 volts) For heat up I run them both.
    Message 1 of 9 , Feb 9, 2007
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      I live in Canada where the line voltage is 120v.
      My boiler has a 3000watt element (240volts) and a 1500 watt element (120 volts)
      For heat up I run them both. As soon as my thermometer start to rise
      I turn off the 3000 watt element and hook the 1500 watt element to a
      variac controller (12 amp). That then allows me to control the heat
      in and very nicely control the heat just below the condenser to the
      desired temp. of the vapours.
      I bought the variac for $22 on ebay.
      I found another in perfect working order at the local dump. It's a
      monster and can handle 25 amps.
      At 09:55 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:



      >Looks awfully spendy to me...IMHO. Especially if a router controller (up to
      >15A) is under $30 US and essentially accomplishes the same.
      >
      >
      >_

      ;-)Derek
    • pint_o_shine
      I am not in the habit of posting things from one forum to another but I think this information is quite relevent to your discussion. I am an electrical
      Message 2 of 9 , Feb 9, 2007
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        I am not in the habit of posting things from one forum to another but
        I think this information is quite relevent to your discussion. I am an
        electrical engineer and advised sever others in a chap solution of
        making smooth power controls for 240 and 120 vac systems. Please
        chaeck out this discussion. I feel you will lear a lot.
        http://www.homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3342
      • kirtgk
        trid do you use this router control or have you used it for element control?? ive read plenty of posts and ame at this point confused. use this someone says
        Message 3 of 9 , Feb 9, 2007
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          trid do you use this router control or have you used it for element
          control?? ive read plenty of posts and ame at this point confused. use
          this someone says and then someone says dont and all that.
          im not into electronics or schematics but i can solder and have fixed
          quite a few amplifiers for stereos and plenty of my kids toys that get
          the wires pulled out.
          take out the burnt part get new one solder in place hope it works
          kinda stuff.
          i know its pricey but the simplicity of just plugging it in and were
          off is inviting for us that dont have skills in building circuit
          boards, and getting the correct parts and putting the whole puzzel
          together.........

          kirtgk

          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Trid <triddlywinks@...> wrote:
          >
          > --- kirtgk <kirtgk@...> wrote:
          >
          > > http://www.heatersplus.com/18tp.htm
          > > i like the 240 volt one.
          >
          > Looks awfully spendy to me...IMHO. Especially if a router
          controller (up to
          > 15A) is under $30 US and essentially accomplishes the same.
          >
          > On a similar, speculative note, this led me to ponder this: I see
          no reason
          > why one could not install multiple heaters...say 3 at 1000W apiece,
          with an
          > individual router control on each. Dial all three up to full for
          the heat up,
          > and back them off as it comes time to tune your reflux. Absolute
          precision on
          > the settings would not be necessary, but adjusting all together would be
          > beneficial for relatively even heat distribution and wear. Combined
          with
          > installing the heaters evenly across the bottom, this could be an
          idea...and
          > potentially cost under $100 US to accomplish.
          >
          > Trid
          > -don't even get me started on the PID algorithm to automate the heater
          > controls...I'm such a geek
          >
        • Firefox
          IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very efficient controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I replaced the Triac
          Message 4 of 9 , Feb 12, 2007
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            IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very efficient controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I replaced the Triac with a 3KW+ power Triac and bypassed the choke, I fried it first LOL. I do realise that radio interference suppression is out the window but I have used it for several years now and it’s still working well.

             

            Just a little electrical knowledge and soldering practice required. DO NOT ATTEMPT this if not confident and qualified.

            Hope this helps, any comments welcome.

            Bob.


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            Checked by AVG.
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          • anthony547357
            I got a controller for about £10 on the web. Also built one from a forum design on the web for less than £5. Sutronics charge about £27 new. I fitted in a
            Message 5 of 9 , Feb 13, 2007
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              I got a controller for about £10 on the web. Also built one from a
              forum design on the web for less than £5. Sutronics charge about £27
              new.

              I fitted in a multimeter to measure voltage and find about 50 volts
              is perfaect once you've got up to temperature.

              Interference. One of the designs included a simple feerite ring, but
              I haven't tried that although it's very straightforward.

              Tony


              -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Firefox" <foxyfoxy50@...> wrote:
              >
              > IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very
              efficient
              > controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I
              replaced the
              > Triac with a 3KW+ power Triac and bypassed the choke, I fried it
              first LOL.
              > I do realise that radio interference suppression is out the window
              but I
              > have used it for several years now and it's still working well.
              >
              >
              >
              > Just a little electrical knowledge and soldering practice
              required. DO NOT
              > ATTEMPT this if not confident and qualified.
              >
              > Hope this helps, any comments welcome.
              >
              > Bob.
              >
              >
              > --
              > No virus found in this outgoing message.
              > Checked by AVG.
              > Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.36/681 - Release Date:
              11/02/2007
              > 18:50
              >
            • anthony547357
              I think you were expecting a bit much from a light dimmer switch. I got my design off the Web or even the Forum. It uses a few simple parts (including a
              Message 6 of 9 , Mar 1, 2007
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                I think you were expecting a bit much from a light dimmer switch. I
                got my design off the Web or even the Forum. It uses a few simple
                parts (including a largish heat sink and also a fairly hefty Triac
                and Diac) that can be bought for less than £5.

                As a radio ham, I know that interference can be caused, and the
                usual way to cure this is to take a few turns of cable round a
                ferrite ring - I'd wait and see if you have any complaints first.
                The alternative to this is a United Automation controller from
                Southport, Lancs, but these cost around £27. These are very small
                and neat, and I believe are the basis for Sutronics controllers who
                are tart them up and put them in a box - and charge accordingly.

                In the end I got an industrial weight controller off the web and
                added a voltmeter and switch. The latter was not really necessary as
                you can unplug from the socket. The voltmeter is useful, however,
                and can be closely corelated to head temperature which I think is
                useful. I have found around 50 volts ac is typical once you've got
                up steam, driving a 3KW element from a washing machine.

                Tony

                -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Firefox" <foxyfoxy50@...> wrote:
                >
                > IAs stated in previous replies quite pricey! I constructed a very
                efficient
                > controller for my 3KW element using a lighting dimmer switch. I
                replaced the
                > Triac with a 3KW+ power Triac and bypassed the choke, I fried it
                first LOL.
                > I do realise that radio interference suppression is out the window
                but I
                > have used it for several years now and it's still working well.
                >
                >
                >
                > Just a little electrical knowledge and soldering practice
                required. DO NOT
                > ATTEMPT this if not confident and qualified.
                >
                > Hope this helps, any comments welcome.
                >
                > Bob.
                >
                >
                > --
                > No virus found in this outgoing message.
                > Checked by AVG.
                > Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.36/681 - Release Date:
                11/02/2007
                > 18:50
                >
              • Firefox
                You are obviously quite correct about the heatsink. I used a heavy duty aluminium box and attached the Triac with thermal compound. This works very well, the
                Message 7 of 9 , Mar 2, 2007
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                  You are obviously quite correct about the heatsink. I used a heavy duty aluminium box and attached the Triac with thermal compound. This works very well, the box does get quite warm but not hot. The Triac I replaced the dimmer switch one with was a 25 Amp so capable of running a 6KW heater. The overall finished job was built for less than £10. I would of liked a switching controller but not cost effective.

                  Bob.


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