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Re:can i replace cooling water with air for the winter???

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  • kirtgk
    thanks larry this is all great information. i plan on using my 30 gallon air compressor which sits in my unheated garage about 40 feet from the cellar. id use
    Message 1 of 5 , Nov 19, 2006
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      thanks larry this is all great information.
      i plan on using my 30 gallon air compressor which sits in my unheated
      garage about 40 feet from the cellar. id use the compressed air in
      place of water and from the unheated garage after compressing id
      guesse the temp of it to be around 30-40 degreese F. my tap water from
      the well is pretty stabel year round from the ground at 51-54 degreese F.
      i do intend on trying the air and will let the group know how it does.
      im not going to change anything on the still. i will simply replace
      water with air so that if it dose not work then changing back will be
      a snap.

      ive heard of the stone for areation. ive always filled my fermentor
      with a hose and press my thumb onto the opening and spray hard the
      water into the fermentor and get areation this way.
      have you done it differently in the past and if so have you noticed
      any differance between the stone and the previous method? which works
      better? im always looking for ways to improve my methods.

      chillin and stillin

      > Well, it IS used, same as it's used to cool car engines... just not
      > "commonly". Some of these "Simple" still setups use nothing but a worm
      > exposed to room air, and I've seen pictures of fans rigged to blow
      > the worm also.
      > After all, Simple Stills are "Simple", not "Efficient". <grin>
      > I'd say that you should go ahead and just blow a fan on your condenser
      > coils, and see what happens. You'll probably need to keep that
      propane down
      > to the point that you are barely getting any steam into the condenser.
      > Slow collection, from using the least amount of heat you can put
      under the
      > wash and still have it make steam is the best for pure output, anyway.
      > If you start seeing steam coming out the end of the condenser along
      > the condensate, then you'll know it's not what you want to do.
      > If you have an open-coil worm, not surrounded by a water jacket, it
      > condense any time the ambient air is colder than the steam going
      into it...
      > but the greater the temperature differential, the more condensation
      > see, and the more heat (faster output) you can stand under the wash
      > blowing un-condensed steam out of the condenser.
      > Room air (especially in the winter) will cause condensation, room
      air in
      > motion (a fan) will condense more.
      > Steam inside the tubing and cold liquid outside of the tubing will
      > best.
      > There's a good reason that most auto engines (and even a lot of
      > these days) are water-cooled, or use oil-coolers, or both.
      > I actually use a motorcycle radiator(from Ebay), with a fan blowing
      on it,
      > to cool my cooling water. You can also pick up a brand new
      > transmission-cooler from auto-parts store for about $85.
      > I use a Liebig condenser. No coil, just a half-inch tube that
      carries the
      > steam, inside of an inch-and-a-quarter tube that is a water-jacket.
      > An aquarium pump puts cooling water into the condenser from a 55-gallon
      > drum, then out to the radiator & fan and back down into the drum.
      > That gives me a closed cooling system, re-using the same 40
      gallons(or so)
      > of water not only for the entire run, but for as many entire runs as I
      > want. Two cups of chlorine bleach will keep it from growing "Grunge"
      > between runs...
      > The Fish Shop is Your Friend! I use an "Aquarium Stone" to aerate the
      > water I'm going to use for fermenting, an aquarium pump to cool my
      > condenser, and if you have any application for Silicon Seal,
      > stuff is best to use.
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