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Re: Newbie with question

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  • Cary Rhodes
    I bought a rather heavy one on ebay. search for variac or triac or rheostat it must weigh 8 or 10 pounds. cary r ... lamp. ... On ... Sometimes ... regulate
    Message 1 of 20 , Feb 1, 2006
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      I bought a rather heavy one on ebay.

      search for variac or triac or rheostat

      it must weigh 8 or 10 pounds.

      cary r







      -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@...> wrote:
      >
      > Who says it won't? A heating element is resistive, just like a
      lamp.
      >
      > If the triac can handle the current then that's all that matters.
      >
      > If you can't find a light dimmer at that current rating, get a
      > 15A router speed control for about $10.
      >
      > --
      > Brendan Keith
      > bkeith@...
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com]
      On
      > Behalf Of Mike Sherwood
      > Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:40 AM
      > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Newbie with question
      >
      > The immersion heater on my copper pot still is 1500 watts.
      Sometimes
      > you just want to dial it down after the vapors start to collect.
      >
      > I'm looking for a commercial TRIAC rheostat or something to
      regulate
      > the power to the immersion heater. Light dimmers do not work and I
      > wouldn't even try to use them. Has anyone found a good rheostat
      for
      > this sort of application?
      >
    • Brendan Keith
      All 3 are very different things, although a variac and rhetostat are similar. A triac is a whole nother animal, and can be quite light. -- Brendan Keith
      Message 2 of 20 , Feb 1, 2006
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        All 3 are very different things, although a variac and rhetostat are
        similar.

        A triac is a whole 'nother animal, and can be quite light.

        --
        Brendan Keith
        bkeith@...


        -----Original Message-----
        From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com]On
        Behalf Of Cary Rhodes
        Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:18 PM
        To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [Distillers] Re: Newbie with question


        I bought a rather heavy one on ebay.

        search for variac or triac or rheostat

        it must weigh 8 or 10 pounds.

        cary r







        -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@...> wrote:
        >
        > Who says it won't? A heating element is resistive, just like a
        lamp.
        >
        > If the triac can handle the current then that's all that matters.
        >
        > If you can't find a light dimmer at that current rating, get a
        > 15A router speed control for about $10.
        >
        > --
        > Brendan Keith
        > bkeith@...
        >
        >
        > -----Original Message-----
        > From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com]
        On
        > Behalf Of Mike Sherwood
        > Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:40 AM
        > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Newbie with question
        >
        > The immersion heater on my copper pot still is 1500 watts.
        Sometimes
        > you just want to dial it down after the vapors start to collect.
        >
        > I'm looking for a commercial TRIAC rheostat or something to
        regulate
        > the power to the immersion heater. Light dimmers do not work and I
        > wouldn't even try to use them. Has anyone found a good rheostat
        for
        > this sort of application?
        >






        Distillers list archives : http://archive.nnytech.net/
        FAQ and other information at http://homedistiller.org
        Yahoo! Groups Links
      • Cary Rhodes
        Yep But u got to realize that all the folks on ebay don t know what they are selling. And may not know how to describe the part. cary r ... On ...
        Message 3 of 20 , Feb 2, 2006
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          Yep

          But u got to realize that all the folks on ebay don't know what they
          are selling.

          And may not know how to describe the part.

          cary r






          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@...> wrote:
          >
          > All 3 are very different things, although a variac and rhetostat are
          > similar.
          >
          > A triac is a whole 'nother animal, and can be quite light.
          >
          > --
          > Brendan Keith
          > bkeith@...
          >
          >
          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com]
          On
          > Behalf Of Cary Rhodes
          > Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:18 PM
          > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Newbie with question
          >
          >
          > I bought a rather heavy one on ebay.
          >
          > search for variac or triac or rheostat
          >
          > it must weigh 8 or 10 pounds.
          >
          > cary r
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > -- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Who says it won't? A heating element is resistive, just like a
          > lamp.
          > >
          > > If the triac can handle the current then that's all that matters.
          > >
          > > If you can't find a light dimmer at that current rating, get a
          > > 15A router speed control for about $10.
          > >
          > > --
          > > Brendan Keith
          > > bkeith@
          > >
          > >
          > > -----Original Message-----
          > > From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
          [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com]
          > On
          > > Behalf Of Mike Sherwood
          > > Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:40 AM
          > > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Newbie with question
          > >
          > > The immersion heater on my copper pot still is 1500 watts.
          > Sometimes
          > > you just want to dial it down after the vapors start to collect.
          > >
          > > I'm looking for a commercial TRIAC rheostat or something to
          > regulate
          > > the power to the immersion heater. Light dimmers do not work and
          I
          > > wouldn't even try to use them. Has anyone found a good rheostat
          > for
          > > this sort of application?
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Distillers list archives : http://archive.nnytech.net/
          > FAQ and other information at http://homedistiller.org
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
        • DetCord
          that copied damn near every one of us in on a stoopid assed email about how Bill Gates is going to give away any of his damn money for forwarding some crazy
          Message 4 of 20 , Feb 2, 2006
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            that copied damn near every one of us in on a stoopid assed email about
            how Bill Gates is going to give away any of his damn money for
            forwarding some crazy email?!?!?!

            all you did was put every single one of our email addresses out there to
            be harvested. When my spam filter overheats, I want to personally thank
            you for your service to this world.

            The next time you feel compelled to do a bulk mailing like that, just
            ask yourself one question. "Does this sound too good to be true?" If
            you answer "yes, by God, it does" DO NOT FWD IT!


            Sorry to rant, but doggone, some people's kids!!!
          • Saul Sabia
            ... (sorry, i missed the original question!) once you get your wash to temp, and start the collection process, you want to lower your heat until you re
            Message 5 of 20 , Feb 3, 2006
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              > Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 16:39:37 -0000
              > From: "Mike Sherwood" <misha_sherwood@...>
              > Subject: Re: Newbie with question
              >
              > I think the issue is keeping a high heat on the wash AFTER it has
              > reached a boil. For first pass 'beer stripping' maybe you keep it on
              > a hard boil the whole time. Second pass, maybe you'd like to bring it
              > to a boil, and then lower the temperature to a slow boil or fast
              > simmer. Just enough to vaporize the alcohol.

              (sorry, i missed the original question!)

              once you get your wash to temp, and start the collection process, you want
              to lower your heat until you're collecting as little as possible. what this
              does is improve your efficiency and help separate the heads, hearts, and
              tails, giving you a clearer boundary from one to the next. it also takes a
              bloody long time, esp with 5+ gal boiler! a 10 gal run can take 14 hours,
              easily, or as little as 8 i think, all depending how fast it comes off.
              (slower = better, but faster = ... ummm, less time to watch the still? =)

              in a stripping run it's not so important, you can collect faster (ie, higher
              heat) since what you're trying to do is get the bulk of the alcohol out of
              the wash. the higher heat will lower the efficiency and allow more flavor
              (both good and bad) in as well. the second run / finishing run should be the
              slow one, where you're trying to get that good product....


              > The immersion heater on my copper pot still is 1500 watts. Sometimes
              > you just want to dial it down after the vapors start to collect.

              propane is easier. (sorry, had to say it. =) good luck on finding a rheostat,
              i don't know jack about that stuff. it might be easier to build a second
              immersion heater into the still, as well, say a 1000w one or something like
              that... run them both together during heat up, but cut one out once you're
              up to temp.

              isn't the rule something like if you cut the voltage in half you cut the
              wattage by almost half? ie, a 1500w 220v element run at 110v would give you
              the vicinity of 800w? .... something like that, anyways.


              Saul

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            • Robert Thomas
              Mike, there s lots on this topic in the archives. Try a search on Sutronics. I believe there are also plans in the files section for the electronics
              Message 6 of 20 , Feb 3, 2006
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                Mike,
                there's lots on this topic in the archives. Try a search on Sutronics.
                I believe there are also plans in the files section for the electronics
                enthusiasts.
                Cheers,
                Rob.
                p.s. I use a sutronics BFC, no probs.


                --- Mike Sherwood <misha_sherwood@...> wrote:

                > I think the issue is keeping a high heat on the wash AFTER it has
                > reached a boil. For first pass 'beer stripping' maybe you keep it on
                >
                > a hard boil the whole time. Second pass, maybe you'd like to bring
                > it
                > to a boil, and then lower the temperature to a slow boil or fast
                > simmer. Just enough to vaporize the alcohol.
                >
                > The immersion heater on my copper pot still is 1500 watts. Sometimes
                >
                > you just want to dial it down after the vapors start to collect.
                >
                > I'm looking for a commercial TRIAC rheostat or something to regulate
                > the power to the immersion heater. Light dimmers do not work and I
                > wouldn't even try to use them. Has anyone found a good rheostat for
                > this sort of application?
                >
                >
                >
                >


                Cheers,
                Rob.

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                Do You Yahoo!?
                Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
                http://mail.yahoo.com
              • Brendan Keith
                Cutting the voltage in half reduces your power to a quarter. So, 375W in your example. -- Brendan Keith bkeith@sympatico.ca ... From:
                Message 7 of 20 , Feb 3, 2006
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                  Cutting the voltage in half reduces your power to a quarter.

                  So, 375W in your example.

                  --
                  Brendan Keith
                  bkeith@...


                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com]On
                  Behalf Of Saul Sabia
                  Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 11:05 AM
                  To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [Distillers] Re: Newbie with question

                  ...

                  isn't the rule something like if you cut the voltage in half you cut the
                  wattage by almost half? ie, a 1500w 220v element run at 110v would give you
                  the vicinity of 800w? .... something like that, anyways.


                  Saul
                • link2d
                  Re: column tempature... As the wash heats the tempature will rise in the reflux column. I, personally, watch two tempatures, just above the top of the wash
                  Message 8 of 20 , May 25 8:26 AM
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                    Re: column tempature...
                    As the wash heats the tempature will rise in the reflux column. I,
                    personally, watch two tempatures, just above the top of the wash and
                    the (important) temp AT the condensing tube. I usually heat the dog
                    out of the wash. As the temp increasingly moves up the column to the
                    top @ about 50c I cut back the heat to avoid boil over, then slowly
                    increasing to 78c. As each component in the mixture of the wash boils
                    off at different tempature the lighter ends will boil off first. If
                    you temp is regulated at a fairly constant the distillation tempature
                    will not move up until all of a component (ethyl alcohol) is vaporized.
                    Pot still... same principle.
                  • Harry
                    ... boils ... vaporized. ... Theoretically true for reflux type stills (but not entirely true in practice). That was fine up to the point where you said
                    Message 9 of 20 , May 25 1:19 PM
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                      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "link2d" <link2d@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Re: column tempature...
                      > As the wash heats the tempature will rise in the reflux column. I,
                      > personally, watch two tempatures, just above the top of the wash and
                      > the (important) temp AT the condensing tube. I usually heat the dog
                      > out of the wash. As the temp increasingly moves up the column to the
                      > top @ about 50c I cut back the heat to avoid boil over, then slowly
                      > increasing to 78c. As each component in the mixture of the wash
                      boils
                      > off at different tempature the lighter ends will boil off first. If
                      > you temp is regulated at a fairly constant the distillation tempature
                      > will not move up until all of a component (ethyl alcohol) is
                      vaporized.
                      > Pot still... same principle.
                      >


                      Theoretically true for reflux type stills (but not 'entirely' true in
                      practice). That was fine up to the point where you said 'potstill,
                      same principle'. I wish it were so, but it ain't.

                      Potstills can only lift the ethanol percentage one stage higher with
                      each distillation. Therefore the other volatile components of the
                      wash, will distill over with the ethanol in all stages of the
                      distillation run. Simply put, let's say you had a bitch wash (not a
                      typo) with lots of methanol & ethyl acetate in it. Both these
                      components boil at a lower temp than ethanol, but you'd still be
                      getting traces of them through the hearts, and even in the tails if
                      using a potstill. Reflux or fractioning stills are the only
                      economical way to separate and concentrate these components fully for
                      removal.

                      Having said that, remember it's the traces of 'impurities' that
                      distinguish potstill and reflux still products. Each have their place.

                      Slainte!
                      regards Harry
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