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Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still

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  • Dave Lorimer
    Look on ebay for dimmer switch and dimmer switches that will handle 1500 watts I am using one now and it works great. I also use two eliments to start then
    Message 1 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
      Look on ebay for dimmer switch and dimmer switches that will handle
      1500 watts I am using one now and it works great.
      I also use two eliments to start then unplug one.
      1125 watts will work fine ,you may have to turn it down .

      Levi Langershank <unit_77@...> wrote:

      No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the

      >wondering if a light dimmer switch would work ????
      >
      >Suitcase

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    • suitcase1499@aol.com
      In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, blueflame456@yahoo.com writes: i use 1500 and 4500 watt element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes
      Message 2 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
        In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
        blueflame456@... writes:

        i use 1500 and 4500 watt
        element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your wash
        to get up to temp-
        Feel free to ask if more help is needed
        your brother in the spirits
        Blueflame 456



        Do you use the 1500 watt element at full power to run???

        Suitcase


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Levi Langershank
        Turnig it down isnt a problem...what size wash do you normally distill?...TIA...: ) Levi (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED) ...
        Message 3 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
          Turnig it down isnt a problem...what size wash do you normally
          distill?...TIA...:>)
          Levi

          (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)


          >From: Dave Lorimer <bbmdave@...>
          >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
          >
          >1125 watts will work fine ,you may have to turn it down .
          >

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        • Robert N
          http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the link above shows how to remove
          Message 4 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
            http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm



            Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the
            link above shows how to remove the spear on a sankey keg. We use a very
            similar setup here in Australia. Fit the element/s as necessary, remembering
            to keep them as low as possible in the keg as you don't need it to boil dry.
            Use as big a gate valve as you can afford for the drain. It also needs to be
            as low as, for obvious reasons. Remember when it's late at night an you just
            want to drain the keg and put everything away, that spent wash will be hot
            and you want it to drain as quickly as possible.



            I have a thermometer in the top of the keg which I find quite handy. While
            it's not a necessity, I can glance at it and see what the boiling
            temperature inside the boiler is. This in turn lets me know where in the
            batch process I am and when the tails should be coming through.



            Get a piece of light plate and cut it out to sit on top of the keg around
            the tower, you now have a place to sit the collection bottle. Make it stable
            but easily removable.



            Weld four plates (angle) on the base of the keg and screw 35mm (11/2")
            castor wheels onto the plates. This makes it easy on your back to move
            things around within the brew shed. Screw them on so replacement isn't an
            issue when they wear out. Use an elbow pipe for the drain in the centre of
            the keg, then a length of pipe to extend the drain out between the castors,
            making the castor wheels big enough to keep the drain from fouling on the
            ground.



            If you are going to use an electrical fly lead, from a junction box mounted
            on the side of the keg, then make sure the fly lead is long enough to reach
            the power point that you plan on using.



            Levi you haven't mentioned the diameter of the column you plan on using and
            how you plan on joining it to the keg. I have used 4" triclover clamps and
            recommend them as they allow support for the tower and I can just get my arm
            inside the keg to clean it when necessary.



            Think about a way of building in a site glass, you could weld a "T" onto the
            keg near the base which goes out to the gate valve for the drain, position
            the spare spigot of the "T" to point up, which you attach the site tube to.
            The thermometer is at the top of the keg using the same type of "T" with the
            spare spigot pointing down and in line with the bottom drain spigot. Join
            the two spigots with some decent re-enforced clear hose.



            Yours in spirit



            Robert



            _____

            From: Levi Langershank [mailto:unit_77@...]
            Subject: [Distillers] Building a Keg still


            Finally getting started building my beer keg still....it is a 15 gallon SS
            'SanKey' type....I plan to install water heater elements...just looking for
            ideas as to how you guys may have done this or would have done it if you had

            it to do again....I have a few ideas of my own but any advice is
            welcome...also thinking of installing a drain plug in the bottom..anyone
            done this?...pros/cons?...thanks





            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Levi Langershank
            Thanks for the food for thought ....... Levi (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED) ... _________________________________________________________________
            Message 5 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
              Thanks for the 'food for thought'.......

              Levi

              (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

              >From: "Robert N" <dinks_c@...>
              >
              >Subject: RE: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
              >Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005 21:51:50 +1000
              >Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the
              >link above shows how to remove the spear on a sankey keg.
              >Yours in spirit
              >
              >
              >
              >Robert

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            • Brandon Lee
              i have the 1500 watt on a dimmer that is used for a vent fan from Grainger wholesale--model 4c933--it handles 12 amps and works very well ...
              Message 6 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                i have the 1500 watt on a dimmer that is used for a
                vent fan from Grainger wholesale--model 4c933--it
                handles 12 amps and works very well
                --- suitcase1499@... wrote:

                >
                > In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern
                > Standard Time,
                > blueflame456@... writes:
                >
                > i use 1500 and 4500 watt
                > element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your
                > wash
                > to get up to temp-
                > Feel free to ask if more help is needed
                > your brother in the spirits
                > Blueflame 456
                >
                >
                >
                > Do you use the 1500 watt element at full power to
                > run???
                >
                > Suitcase
                >
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been
                > removed]
                >
                >




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              • Brendan Keith
                I ve read about removing the ball lock and spear from a Sanke American keg, and am about to do it on the one that I have, but is there a process for removing
                Message 7 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                  I"ve read about removing the ball lock and spear from a Sanke American keg,
                  and am about to do it on the one that I have, but is there a process for
                  removing the works from a European keg?

                  Or is there no point. Just cut a big hole and clamp a bowl on top?

                  --
                  Brendan Keith
                  bkeith@...




                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Levi Langershank
                  Regardless of what type keg you use,be sure to relieve the pressure immediately before you start drilling,cutting etc....relieving pressure from a dirty keg
                  Message 8 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                    Regardless of what type keg you use,be sure to relieve the pressure
                    immediately before you start drilling,cutting etc....relieving pressure from
                    a 'dirty' keg today,dosnt mean there will be no pressure tomorrow...good
                    luck...:>)
                    Levi

                    (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

                    >From: "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@...>
                    >Subject: RE: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                    >Or is there no point. Just cut a big hole and clamp a bowl on top?
                    >
                    >--
                    >Brendan Keith
                    >bkeith@...

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