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Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still

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  • Levi Langershank
    No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the amperage...unless it was for a BIG light....I use a 10AMP variable transformer.It controls the voltage from 0 thru
    Message 1 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
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      No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the amperage...unless it was for a
      BIG light....I use a 10AMP variable transformer.It controls the voltage from
      0 thru 100%.I plan to wire one element directly and run the other thru the
      VT....when the still is up to operating temp I will unplug the direct wired
      one...maybe the 'experts' can tell me if 1125 watts will be enough to keep a
      10 gallon wash 'cooking'....:>)

      Levi

      (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)
      >From: suitcase1499@...

      >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
      >Well I'm not sure I just built a new one I actually heated my keg with a
      >propane burner. , I was w
      >ondering if a light dimmer switch would work ????
      >
      >Suitcase

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    • Levi Langershank
      The main reason I dont want to use propane is...by the time I attach my column on top of the keg,then sit it on my burner,it wouldnt fit in my
      Message 2 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
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        The main reason I dont want to use propane is...by the time I attach my
        column on top of the keg,then sit it on my burner,it wouldnt fit in my
        'stillhouse'......besides that,I like the efficiency and convenience of
        electricity......I seriously doubt an 'outside' heat source, is going to be
        as efficient as an inside source,where 100% of the heat is going into the
        wash....not simply sitting a keg on a propane burner anyways...thanks for
        the input...:>)

        Levi

        (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

        >From: David W Lunsford <maxtonnage@...>

        >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
        >why not use propane? in a larger boiler, propane may be the way to go, as
        >opposed to hours of kilowatts....maxtonnage

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      • Brandon Lee
        it s farily strait forward--if u live in the states get three stainless 1 pipe couplings--the threads in heater elements are the same--cut holes with a
        Message 3 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
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          it's farily strait forward--if u live in the states
          get three stainless 1" pipe couplings--the threads in
          heater elements are the same--cut holes with a regular
          hole cutting bit--the one with the .25" drill in the
          center works best--u can braze or weld (which i
          prefer) the two couplings to the keg--cut one more
          hole at the bottom on the other side to install your
          drain--
          I have a 9" hole in the top of mine which makes it
          easy to clean out--i use 1500 and 4500 watt
          element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your wash
          to get up to temp-
          Feel free to ask if more help is needed
          your brother in the spirits
          Blueflame 456
          --- Levi Langershank <unit_77@...> wrote:

          >
          > Finally getting started building my beer keg
          > still....it is a 15 gallon SS
          > 'SanKey' type....I plan to install water heater
          > elements...just looking for
          > ideas as to how you guys may have done this or would
          > have done it if you had
          > it to do again....I have a few ideas of my own but
          > any advice is
          > welcome...also thinking of installing a drain plug
          > in the bottom..anyone
          > done this?...pros/cons?...thanks
          >
          >
          >
          > Levi
          >
          >
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        • Dave Lorimer
          Look on ebay for dimmer switch and dimmer switches that will handle 1500 watts I am using one now and it works great. I also use two eliments to start then
          Message 4 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
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            Look on ebay for dimmer switch and dimmer switches that will handle
            1500 watts I am using one now and it works great.
            I also use two eliments to start then unplug one.
            1125 watts will work fine ,you may have to turn it down .

            Levi Langershank <unit_77@...> wrote:

            No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the

            >wondering if a light dimmer switch would work ????
            >
            >Suitcase

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          • suitcase1499@aol.com
            In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, blueflame456@yahoo.com writes: i use 1500 and 4500 watt element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes
            Message 5 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
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              In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
              blueflame456@... writes:

              i use 1500 and 4500 watt
              element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your wash
              to get up to temp-
              Feel free to ask if more help is needed
              your brother in the spirits
              Blueflame 456



              Do you use the 1500 watt element at full power to run???

              Suitcase


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Levi Langershank
              Turnig it down isnt a problem...what size wash do you normally distill?...TIA...: ) Levi (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED) ...
              Message 6 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
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                Turnig it down isnt a problem...what size wash do you normally
                distill?...TIA...:>)
                Levi

                (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)


                >From: Dave Lorimer <bbmdave@...>
                >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                >
                >1125 watts will work fine ,you may have to turn it down .
                >

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              • Robert N
                http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the link above shows how to remove
                Message 7 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
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                  http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm



                  Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the
                  link above shows how to remove the spear on a sankey keg. We use a very
                  similar setup here in Australia. Fit the element/s as necessary, remembering
                  to keep them as low as possible in the keg as you don't need it to boil dry.
                  Use as big a gate valve as you can afford for the drain. It also needs to be
                  as low as, for obvious reasons. Remember when it's late at night an you just
                  want to drain the keg and put everything away, that spent wash will be hot
                  and you want it to drain as quickly as possible.



                  I have a thermometer in the top of the keg which I find quite handy. While
                  it's not a necessity, I can glance at it and see what the boiling
                  temperature inside the boiler is. This in turn lets me know where in the
                  batch process I am and when the tails should be coming through.



                  Get a piece of light plate and cut it out to sit on top of the keg around
                  the tower, you now have a place to sit the collection bottle. Make it stable
                  but easily removable.



                  Weld four plates (angle) on the base of the keg and screw 35mm (11/2")
                  castor wheels onto the plates. This makes it easy on your back to move
                  things around within the brew shed. Screw them on so replacement isn't an
                  issue when they wear out. Use an elbow pipe for the drain in the centre of
                  the keg, then a length of pipe to extend the drain out between the castors,
                  making the castor wheels big enough to keep the drain from fouling on the
                  ground.



                  If you are going to use an electrical fly lead, from a junction box mounted
                  on the side of the keg, then make sure the fly lead is long enough to reach
                  the power point that you plan on using.



                  Levi you haven't mentioned the diameter of the column you plan on using and
                  how you plan on joining it to the keg. I have used 4" triclover clamps and
                  recommend them as they allow support for the tower and I can just get my arm
                  inside the keg to clean it when necessary.



                  Think about a way of building in a site glass, you could weld a "T" onto the
                  keg near the base which goes out to the gate valve for the drain, position
                  the spare spigot of the "T" to point up, which you attach the site tube to.
                  The thermometer is at the top of the keg using the same type of "T" with the
                  spare spigot pointing down and in line with the bottom drain spigot. Join
                  the two spigots with some decent re-enforced clear hose.



                  Yours in spirit



                  Robert



                  _____

                  From: Levi Langershank [mailto:unit_77@...]
                  Subject: [Distillers] Building a Keg still


                  Finally getting started building my beer keg still....it is a 15 gallon SS
                  'SanKey' type....I plan to install water heater elements...just looking for
                  ideas as to how you guys may have done this or would have done it if you had

                  it to do again....I have a few ideas of my own but any advice is
                  welcome...also thinking of installing a drain plug in the bottom..anyone
                  done this?...pros/cons?...thanks





                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Levi Langershank
                  Thanks for the food for thought ....... Levi (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED) ... _________________________________________________________________
                  Message 8 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
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                    Thanks for the 'food for thought'.......

                    Levi

                    (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

                    >From: "Robert N" <dinks_c@...>
                    >
                    >Subject: RE: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                    >Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005 21:51:50 +1000
                    >Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the
                    >link above shows how to remove the spear on a sankey keg.
                    >Yours in spirit
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >Robert

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                  • Brandon Lee
                    i have the 1500 watt on a dimmer that is used for a vent fan from Grainger wholesale--model 4c933--it handles 12 amps and works very well ...
                    Message 9 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
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                      i have the 1500 watt on a dimmer that is used for a
                      vent fan from Grainger wholesale--model 4c933--it
                      handles 12 amps and works very well
                      --- suitcase1499@... wrote:

                      >
                      > In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern
                      > Standard Time,
                      > blueflame456@... writes:
                      >
                      > i use 1500 and 4500 watt
                      > element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your
                      > wash
                      > to get up to temp-
                      > Feel free to ask if more help is needed
                      > your brother in the spirits
                      > Blueflame 456
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > Do you use the 1500 watt element at full power to
                      > run???
                      >
                      > Suitcase
                      >
                      >
                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been
                      > removed]
                      >
                      >




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                    • Brendan Keith
                      I ve read about removing the ball lock and spear from a Sanke American keg, and am about to do it on the one that I have, but is there a process for removing
                      Message 10 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
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                        I"ve read about removing the ball lock and spear from a Sanke American keg,
                        and am about to do it on the one that I have, but is there a process for
                        removing the works from a European keg?

                        Or is there no point. Just cut a big hole and clamp a bowl on top?

                        --
                        Brendan Keith
                        bkeith@...




                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Levi Langershank
                        Regardless of what type keg you use,be sure to relieve the pressure immediately before you start drilling,cutting etc....relieving pressure from a dirty keg
                        Message 11 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
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                          Regardless of what type keg you use,be sure to relieve the pressure
                          immediately before you start drilling,cutting etc....relieving pressure from
                          a 'dirty' keg today,dosnt mean there will be no pressure tomorrow...good
                          luck...:>)
                          Levi

                          (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

                          >From: "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@...>
                          >Subject: RE: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                          >Or is there no point. Just cut a big hole and clamp a bowl on top?
                          >
                          >--
                          >Brendan Keith
                          >bkeith@...

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