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Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still

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  • Levi Langershank
    No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the amperage...unless it was for a BIG light....I use a 10AMP variable transformer.It controls the voltage from 0 thru
    Message 1 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
      No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the amperage...unless it was for a
      BIG light....I use a 10AMP variable transformer.It controls the voltage from
      0 thru 100%.I plan to wire one element directly and run the other thru the
      VT....when the still is up to operating temp I will unplug the direct wired
      one...maybe the 'experts' can tell me if 1125 watts will be enough to keep a
      10 gallon wash 'cooking'....:>)

      Levi

      (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)
      >From: suitcase1499@...

      >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
      >Well I'm not sure I just built a new one I actually heated my keg with a
      >propane burner. , I was w
      >ondering if a light dimmer switch would work ????
      >
      >Suitcase

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    • Levi Langershank
      The main reason I dont want to use propane is...by the time I attach my column on top of the keg,then sit it on my burner,it wouldnt fit in my
      Message 2 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
        The main reason I dont want to use propane is...by the time I attach my
        column on top of the keg,then sit it on my burner,it wouldnt fit in my
        'stillhouse'......besides that,I like the efficiency and convenience of
        electricity......I seriously doubt an 'outside' heat source, is going to be
        as efficient as an inside source,where 100% of the heat is going into the
        wash....not simply sitting a keg on a propane burner anyways...thanks for
        the input...:>)

        Levi

        (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

        >From: David W Lunsford <maxtonnage@...>

        >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
        >why not use propane? in a larger boiler, propane may be the way to go, as
        >opposed to hours of kilowatts....maxtonnage

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      • David W Lunsford
        why not use propane? in a larger boiler, propane may be the way to go, as opposed to hours of kilowatts....maxtonnage ... using two ... that
        Message 3 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
          why not use propane? in a larger boiler, propane may be the way to go, as
          opposed to hours of kilowatts....maxtonnage



          At 06:28 PM 2/1/05 EST, you wrote:
          >
          >
          >In a message dated 2/1/2005 6:19:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
          >unit_77@... writes:
          >
          >heat up with both then cut back to one........:>)
          >
          >
          >
          >Levi
          >
          >
          >
          >Well I'm not sure I just built a new one I actually heated my keg with a
          >propane burner. The new one I built is larger and rectanular shaped holds 30
          >gallons and has 2 columns, So I've got to do some testing I'm thinking of
          using two
          >1500 watts for heat up then cut back to one for running but I don't know
          that
          >might still be to much heat I need to find some kind of thermostat, I was w
          >ondering if a light dimmer switch would work ????
          >
          >Suitcase
          >
          >
          >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Distillers list archives : http://archive.nnytech.net/
          > FAQ and other information at http://homedistiller.org
          >Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
        • Brandon Lee
          it s farily strait forward--if u live in the states get three stainless 1 pipe couplings--the threads in heater elements are the same--cut holes with a
          Message 4 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
            it's farily strait forward--if u live in the states
            get three stainless 1" pipe couplings--the threads in
            heater elements are the same--cut holes with a regular
            hole cutting bit--the one with the .25" drill in the
            center works best--u can braze or weld (which i
            prefer) the two couplings to the keg--cut one more
            hole at the bottom on the other side to install your
            drain--
            I have a 9" hole in the top of mine which makes it
            easy to clean out--i use 1500 and 4500 watt
            element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your wash
            to get up to temp-
            Feel free to ask if more help is needed
            your brother in the spirits
            Blueflame 456
            --- Levi Langershank <unit_77@...> wrote:

            >
            > Finally getting started building my beer keg
            > still....it is a 15 gallon SS
            > 'SanKey' type....I plan to install water heater
            > elements...just looking for
            > ideas as to how you guys may have done this or would
            > have done it if you had
            > it to do again....I have a few ideas of my own but
            > any advice is
            > welcome...also thinking of installing a drain plug
            > in the bottom..anyone
            > done this?...pros/cons?...thanks
            >
            >
            >
            > Levi
            >
            >
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          • Dave Lorimer
            Look on ebay for dimmer switch and dimmer switches that will handle 1500 watts I am using one now and it works great. I also use two eliments to start then
            Message 5 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
              Look on ebay for dimmer switch and dimmer switches that will handle
              1500 watts I am using one now and it works great.
              I also use two eliments to start then unplug one.
              1125 watts will work fine ,you may have to turn it down .

              Levi Langershank <unit_77@...> wrote:

              No,I doubt the light dimmer would handle the

              >wondering if a light dimmer switch would work ????
              >
              >Suitcase

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            • suitcase1499@aol.com
              In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, blueflame456@yahoo.com writes: i use 1500 and 4500 watt element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes
              Message 6 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
                In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
                blueflame456@... writes:

                i use 1500 and 4500 watt
                element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your wash
                to get up to temp-
                Feel free to ask if more help is needed
                your brother in the spirits
                Blueflame 456



                Do you use the 1500 watt element at full power to run???

                Suitcase


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Levi Langershank
                Turnig it down isnt a problem...what size wash do you normally distill?...TIA...: ) Levi (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED) ...
                Message 7 of 16 , Feb 1, 2005
                  Turnig it down isnt a problem...what size wash do you normally
                  distill?...TIA...:>)
                  Levi

                  (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)


                  >From: Dave Lorimer <bbmdave@...>
                  >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                  >
                  >1125 watts will work fine ,you may have to turn it down .
                  >

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                • Robert N
                  http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the link above shows how to remove
                  Message 8 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                    http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm



                    Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the
                    link above shows how to remove the spear on a sankey keg. We use a very
                    similar setup here in Australia. Fit the element/s as necessary, remembering
                    to keep them as low as possible in the keg as you don't need it to boil dry.
                    Use as big a gate valve as you can afford for the drain. It also needs to be
                    as low as, for obvious reasons. Remember when it's late at night an you just
                    want to drain the keg and put everything away, that spent wash will be hot
                    and you want it to drain as quickly as possible.



                    I have a thermometer in the top of the keg which I find quite handy. While
                    it's not a necessity, I can glance at it and see what the boiling
                    temperature inside the boiler is. This in turn lets me know where in the
                    batch process I am and when the tails should be coming through.



                    Get a piece of light plate and cut it out to sit on top of the keg around
                    the tower, you now have a place to sit the collection bottle. Make it stable
                    but easily removable.



                    Weld four plates (angle) on the base of the keg and screw 35mm (11/2")
                    castor wheels onto the plates. This makes it easy on your back to move
                    things around within the brew shed. Screw them on so replacement isn't an
                    issue when they wear out. Use an elbow pipe for the drain in the centre of
                    the keg, then a length of pipe to extend the drain out between the castors,
                    making the castor wheels big enough to keep the drain from fouling on the
                    ground.



                    If you are going to use an electrical fly lead, from a junction box mounted
                    on the side of the keg, then make sure the fly lead is long enough to reach
                    the power point that you plan on using.



                    Levi you haven't mentioned the diameter of the column you plan on using and
                    how you plan on joining it to the keg. I have used 4" triclover clamps and
                    recommend them as they allow support for the tower and I can just get my arm
                    inside the keg to clean it when necessary.



                    Think about a way of building in a site glass, you could weld a "T" onto the
                    keg near the base which goes out to the gate valve for the drain, position
                    the spare spigot of the "T" to point up, which you attach the site tube to.
                    The thermometer is at the top of the keg using the same type of "T" with the
                    spare spigot pointing down and in line with the bottom drain spigot. Join
                    the two spigots with some decent re-enforced clear hose.



                    Yours in spirit



                    Robert



                    _____

                    From: Levi Langershank [mailto:unit_77@...]
                    Subject: [Distillers] Building a Keg still


                    Finally getting started building my beer keg still....it is a 15 gallon SS
                    'SanKey' type....I plan to install water heater elements...just looking for
                    ideas as to how you guys may have done this or would have done it if you had

                    it to do again....I have a few ideas of my own but any advice is
                    welcome...also thinking of installing a drain plug in the bottom..anyone
                    done this?...pros/cons?...thanks





                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Levi Langershank
                    Thanks for the food for thought ....... Levi (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED) ... _________________________________________________________________
                    Message 9 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                      Thanks for the 'food for thought'.......

                      Levi

                      (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

                      >From: "Robert N" <dinks_c@...>
                      >
                      >Subject: RE: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                      >Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005 21:51:50 +1000
                      >Hi Levi, you probably already know this but in the interests of safety, the
                      >link above shows how to remove the spear on a sankey keg.
                      >Yours in spirit
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >Robert

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                    • Brandon Lee
                      i have the 1500 watt on a dimmer that is used for a vent fan from Grainger wholesale--model 4c933--it handles 12 amps and works very well ...
                      Message 10 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                        i have the 1500 watt on a dimmer that is used for a
                        vent fan from Grainger wholesale--model 4c933--it
                        handles 12 amps and works very well
                        --- suitcase1499@... wrote:

                        >
                        > In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:36:42 PM Eastern
                        > Standard Time,
                        > blueflame456@... writes:
                        >
                        > i use 1500 and 4500 watt
                        > element--it takes approx. 30-40 minutes for your
                        > wash
                        > to get up to temp-
                        > Feel free to ask if more help is needed
                        > your brother in the spirits
                        > Blueflame 456
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Do you use the 1500 watt element at full power to
                        > run???
                        >
                        > Suitcase
                        >
                        >
                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been
                        > removed]
                        >
                        >




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                      • Brendan Keith
                        I ve read about removing the ball lock and spear from a Sanke American keg, and am about to do it on the one that I have, but is there a process for removing
                        Message 11 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                          I"ve read about removing the ball lock and spear from a Sanke American keg,
                          and am about to do it on the one that I have, but is there a process for
                          removing the works from a European keg?

                          Or is there no point. Just cut a big hole and clamp a bowl on top?

                          --
                          Brendan Keith
                          bkeith@...




                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Levi Langershank
                          Regardless of what type keg you use,be sure to relieve the pressure immediately before you start drilling,cutting etc....relieving pressure from a dirty keg
                          Message 12 of 16 , Feb 2, 2005
                            Regardless of what type keg you use,be sure to relieve the pressure
                            immediately before you start drilling,cutting etc....relieving pressure from
                            a 'dirty' keg today,dosnt mean there will be no pressure tomorrow...good
                            luck...:>)
                            Levi

                            (THIS REPLY HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY EDITED)

                            >From: "Brendan Keith" <bkeith@...>
                            >Subject: RE: [Distillers] Building a Keg still
                            >Or is there no point. Just cut a big hole and clamp a bowl on top?
                            >
                            >--
                            >Brendan Keith
                            >bkeith@...

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