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Re: [Distillers] Re: Inclined heads - pictures, philosophy, free food

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  • Andrew Forsberg
    ... Hey there Boot, Just wondering if you could provide more details re: your unsuccessful parallel-flow condenser experiments. Most data suggests the opposite
    Message 1 of 31 , Nov 30, 2004
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      > See the lower part of:
      > http://boot136.freeserverhost.com/head/crossflow.htm

      Hey there Boot,

      Just wondering if you could provide more details re: your unsuccessful
      parallel-flow condenser experiments. Most data suggests the opposite in
      terms of flow rate and efficiency -- it'd be great to find out more
      about situations where this setup doesn't apply. I just wonder whether
      there were other factors contributing to the problems you found with it
      that have broken the proverbial rule of thumb.

      > Hector, do take that photo though!

      Bloody yahoo's stalling mail delivery randomly again. It's extremely
      annoying to only be able to read every third post of a thread. Gah &
      hmph.

      Righto, cheers,
      Andrew
    • Robert N
      Hi Héctor & Mike, if I may respectfully add my 5 cents worth to this topic. Héctor when “welding” I am assuming you were quoted for a stainless steel
      Message 31 of 31 , Dec 3, 2004
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        Hi Héctor & Mike, if I may respectfully add my 5 cents worth to this topic.
        Héctor when “welding” I am assuming you were quoted for a stainless steel
        condenser and TIG welding. The torch used to TIG weld is cumbersome at
        getting into tight spots. Hence the need to weld the baffles into place on
        the through tubes before inserting them into the tube, just as Mike has
        stated. One thing for those trying it at home should do. After tack welding
        /soldering to each tube on each baffle, you really need to try it inside the
        outer casing so as to make sure things are aligned with the end plate that
        is the last to be welded. Anything with such a snug fit will always distort
        or move some as you are welding, and fixing the alignment is far easier to
        do as you go.



        The way in which I usually do such a fiddly job as this, is to start with
        the centre baffle, holding the baffle in a vice, either tack weld three
        tubes in a triangular pattern as Mike has intimated or you can weld all of
        them into place using a set square starting with the bottom tube and
        inserting each tube as you go. If you are using the triangular tack method
        and have several through tubes it maybe worthwhile to tack on alternate
        tubes on successive baffles.



        Once the centre baffle is completed, stand the tubes on its end, cut some
        timber or some other item to use as a template for the distance between each
        baffle. Sit it on top of the centre baffle; drop the next baffle into place.
        Triangular tack weld this baffle trying it inside the outer casing as you
        go. Weld the outer baffles last.



        Given that what we have basically done here is to take the “inclined head”
        or any shotgun style condenser and changed it from a laminar flow to a cross
        flow design, means we then have to allow enough space on each baffle for
        either the water or vapour to flow, depending on how you wish to use this
        condenser. Héctor, depending on the size you wish to make this it maybe
        easier to fit a threaded fitting at alternate sides of the outer casing
        using a pipe shaped into a “U” to link the flow to the next baffled section,
        as this would make it easier to inspect inside at a later date. For the
        internal option then it should be a matter of cutting out a section of the
        baffle on alternate sides before assembly to achieve the cross flow. The
        tricky part is to allow enough of a space for this flow to occur as any
        restriction in flow equates to a internal pressure increase, which is
        something we all wish to avoid, just ask Jim:-). Another option maybe to
        alternate between a tight fit between the baffle and outer casing and a
        loose fit around the through tubes then on the next baffle having a loose
        fit on the outer casing and a tight fit on the tubes. As to the amount of
        baffles, I would imagine no more than every 75mm (3”). Your thoughts?



        Yours in Spirit



        Robert



        _____

        From: Mike Nixon [mailto:mike@...]
        Sent: Friday, 3 December 2004 2:21 PM
        To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [Distillers] Re: Inclined heads - pictures, philosophy, free
        food



        Héctor A. Landaeta C. wrote
        Subject: Re: [Distillers] Re: Inclined heads - pictures, philosophy, free
        food

        On 2/12/04 1:10 AM, "Mike Nixon" <mike@...> wrote:

        > Seems to me that the baffles would work best if the cooling water were to
        > be
        > directed as shown, the water holes alternating top and bottom, and the
        > drain
        > would not "operate" until the end when you turned it upside down (Andy's
        > question about valves noted of course!)

        Hola Mike!
        Yep but no, you actually have to make it stand on it¹s end to drain it of
        the cooling water completely. Remember that the drain¹s use is only to take
        out the remaining distillate out of the condenser not for the water. I seem
        to remember that when having the design quoted for construction in SS and in
        a bigger size that the engineer said the tricky part would be the welding of
        the baffles inside. Any Ideas as to how to do that in the real world?
        Salud!
        --
        Héctor Landaeta
        Caracas - Venezuela.
        ==================
        Now that's interesting Héctor .. that bit about the drain. I would have
        thought that any opening in the distillate collection region at the bottom
        would drain it immediately if not fitted with a valve.

        Concerning the baffles, I think that Brendan Keith hit the nail on the head
        when he suggested assembling the tubes and baffles first and then slipping
        them into the casing. With just end plates, it's easier to braze/weld the
        end plates to the casing first, and then thread through the tubes before
        soldering/brazing them in place. As he points out, they don't have to be a
        tight fit in there ... just act as turbulence/flow direction generators.
        Also, if the tubes are first all soldered/brazed to the end plates (before
        putting the assembly in the casing), each intermediate baffle could be
        firmly secured in place by just tack "welds" to three of the outer tubes ...

        three equidistant tacks would hold each baffle plate securely, even if the
        tack "welds" are made using just soft solder. That way, all the tubes and
        all the plates will be firmly held in place with a minimum of "welding".
        Such a job would most easily be done by using both silver and soft solders
        with copper... or silver solders of different melting points if using steel.

        So, first of all ensure that the holes in the end plates are a very close
        fit on the tubes, for soldering all tubes to those end plates is then dead
        easy if you first thread all the tubes through the stack of plates/baffles.
        Then sit the assembly upright on the bench. With one end plate and all the
        baffles at the bottom, hold the other end plate temporarily in place at the
        top by squeezing the tubes together in the middle with string or wire so the

        top plate is horizontal and firmly held in place by friction (a garotte is
        an easy way of doing that single-handed). Then flux and flow silver solder

        over the top end plate to secure all tubes simultaneously. Turn over and
        repeat. Then, holding the assembly horizontal, remove the garotte and push

        all the baffle plates to one end. One at a time, move the baffle plates to
        their places at other end and tack in place with soft solder. Finally,
        insert assembly into casing, then soft solder the end caps in place.

        Hola!!!!

        All the best,
        Mike N






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