49121Re: [Distillers] Re: Graham condenser or liebeg condenser
- Mar 25, 2013
A contact told me he avoids copper because it develops deposits that must be cleaned out every time it is used. Is that true? I was thinking of developing a coil heat exchanger/condenser out of two sizes of refrigeration tubing soldered together, or maybe coil tube-in-tube style. But if the cleaning is problematic, that may not be practical.
By the way, can anyone please explain the objection to using ordinary silphos brazing solder? - does it contain cadmium? It's just that plumbers use and have used it for many years with no problems.
Thanks for your help.
--- On Tue, 26/3/13, Timothy C Smoth <timothyc.smith@...> wrote:
From: Timothy C Smoth <timothyc.smith@...>
Subject: [Distillers] Re: Graham condenser or liebeg condenser
To: "Distillers@yahoogroups.com" <Distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, 26, March, 2013, 2:28 AM
I'm using a Liebig. It also is 1/2" inside 3/4". I think 24" is fairly standard length. I built mine long. 36" between the cooling water tee's. I can run the cooling water quite slow on the stove top still. That model has a 3/4" copper riser running through a tee, out the side to a 45° and then to the condenser. The top of the tee has a thermometer port..
On the keg still I run 2". A pot still with no thermometer and also a Bok. I use the same Liebig on them. I don't have to run the recirculation pump to fast here either. Hardly at all on the Bok. its only a product chiller before the parrot. Unless I turn the heat up too much on the big pot. But that just forces more water to jump.
I still end up using the same amount of heat transfer as though I was running a shorter one. I just don't have to turn the pump control up as high.
I've never used a gram condenser. I think I'll try to make on and test it out.
Sent from Tim's iPhone
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