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Spray finish question

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  • glemasurier
    Do either Hahnemuhle FineArt Baryta 325 or Gold Fibre Silk need a spray sealer to protect the surface? If so, which one do you recommend? I m assuming a
    Message 1 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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      Do either Hahnemuhle FineArt Baryta 325 or Gold Fibre Silk need a
      spray sealer to protect the surface? If so, which one do you
      recommend? I'm assuming a solvent spray is best?

      I keep my B&W photos mostly in archival storage boxes, and the prints
      I display are all indoors. I use a 2400 with K3 inks, and occasionally
      use an MIS ink in the yellow position.

      Thanks,
      George Le Masurier
    • Bruce Watson
      ... Prints on paper destined for a stacking in drawers or display framed under glazing don t *need* to be overcoated or laminated. In fact, unless done well
      Message 2 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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        glemasurier wrote:
        > Do either Hahnemuhle FineArt Baryta 325 or Gold Fibre Silk need a
        > spray sealer to protect the surface? If so, which one do you
        > recommend? I'm assuming a solvent spray is best?
        Prints on paper destined for a stacking in drawers or display framed
        under glazing don't *need* to be overcoated or laminated. In fact,
        unless done well and throughly dried an overcoating can cause prints to
        stick together when stacked, even to stick to interleaving papers. This
        can be a quick way to destroy lots of prints all at once if you aren't
        exceedingly careful.

        But if you decide you *want* to do it anyway, please do it responsibly.
        The volatile organic compounds (VOC) in solvent based sprays are bad for
        both your health (and everyone else's) and for the environment. The VOCs
        are so bad that solvent based paints and inks are being outlawed in most
        countries around the world because of the damage they do. Europe leads
        on this; already in the USA solvent based paints are hard to find. IIRC
        they'll be illegal in a year or two.

        What I'm saying is, if you are going to spray, at least use a water
        based spray. HPs gloss optimizer, for example, is water based, as is
        Epson's GLOP. Most popular overcoats are water based. Breathing Color's
        Glamor II, Clear Star's Clear Shield Type C, etc. are water based.
        --
        Bruce Watson
      • pr_roark
        ... I don t know about those particular papers, but Premier Art Print Shield is what I sometimes use to spray glossy prints. It does offer some protection
        Message 3 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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          > > Do either Hahnemuhle FineArt Baryta 325 or Gold Fibre Silk need a
          > > spray sealer to protect the surface? If so, which one do you
          > > recommend? I'm assuming a solvent spray is best?

          I don't know about those particular papers, but Premier Art Print
          Shield is what I sometimes use to spray glossy prints. It does offer
          some protection against abraision, as well as hide gloss differential
          and bronzing. This is a solvent based spray that does have the nasty
          VOCs in it. Where I live an open garage works; gogles and a
          respirator (or just holding your breath) are recommended.

          > ...
          > unless ... throughly dried an overcoating can cause prints to
          > stick together when stacked, ...

          I've found this only with the water based coatings.

          ...
          > The volatile organic compounds (VOC) in solvent based
          > sprays are bad for both your health (and everyone else's)
          > and for the environment.

          True. Even the water based ones are not necessarily healthy. They
          are most commonly suspensions of what one expert referred to
          as "gooey golf balls" of solvent and coating. I think you'll see in
          the commercial field "100% solids" is where the industry is going to
          try and get away from these solvents. I'm not sure we have any such
          coatings available to us.

          I, frankly, prefer no spraying at all, but given the way our pigments
          tend to sit on top of the paper, they are all too easy to damage.
          Some type of over-coat would be nice.

          Perhpas Daniela and Mantinieri are onto something with their gelatin
          coating. See message 93834.

          Paul
          www.PaulRoark.com
        • steveabrink
          Your point about VOC compounds are duly noted, and I m going to not replace my Printshield spray cans... What do you think is the best water based coating?
          Message 4 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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            Your point about VOC compounds are duly noted, and I'm going to not
            replace my Printshield spray cans... What do you think is the best
            water based coating? And will these coatings work for both gloss and
            matte type papers? I've only done gloss spraying...

            I like to mount my prints directly on 3/4 in. blk gatorboard w/ no
            frame or glass, and in PS add a 1/2 in black edge. I'm using harman
            gloss paper w/ 3 med. coats of Printshield spray. A clean look I
            think ...

            SteveB


            --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark"
            <pr_roark@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > > > Do either Hahnemuhle FineArt Baryta 325 or Gold Fibre Silk need
            a
            > > > spray sealer to protect the surface? If so, which one do you
            > > > recommend? I'm assuming a solvent spray is best?
            >
            > I don't know about those particular papers, but Premier Art Print
            > Shield is what I sometimes use to spray glossy prints. It does
            offer
            > some protection against abraision, as well as hide gloss
            differential
            > and bronzing. This is a solvent based spray that does have the
            nasty
            > VOCs in it. Where I live an open garage works; gogles and a
            > respirator (or just holding your breath) are recommended.
            >
            > > ...
            > > unless ... throughly dried an overcoating can cause prints to
            > > stick together when stacked, ...
            >
            > I've found this only with the water based coatings.
            >
            > ...
            > > The volatile organic compounds (VOC) in solvent based
            > > sprays are bad for both your health (and everyone else's)
            > > and for the environment.
            >
            > True. Even the water based ones are not necessarily healthy. They
            > are most commonly suspensions of what one expert referred to
            > as "gooey golf balls" of solvent and coating. I think you'll see
            in
            > the commercial field "100% solids" is where the industry is going
            to
            > try and get away from these solvents. I'm not sure we have any
            such
            > coatings available to us.
            >
            > I, frankly, prefer no spraying at all, but given the way our
            pigments
            > tend to sit on top of the paper, they are all too easy to damage.
            > Some type of over-coat would be nice.
            >
            > Perhpas Daniela and Mantinieri are onto something with their
            gelatin
            > coating. See message 93834.
            >
            > Paul
            > www.PaulRoark.com
            >
          • pr_roark
            ... For what I do, I have not found any that I like well enough to use. If I were a pro lab with a spray booth, etc. and doing canvas, it might be a different
            Message 5 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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              >...What do you think is the best water based coating?

              For what I do, I have not found any that I like well enough to use.

              If I were a pro lab with a spray booth, etc. and doing canvas, it might
              be a different story.

              Paul
              www.PaulRoark.com
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