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Looking for some engine advice

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  • Ron Frost
    Morning folks, I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
    Message 1 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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      Morning folks,
      I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
      and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
      tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
      I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
      No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
      Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
      before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
      pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
      parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
      Thanks
      Ron Frost
    • Chuck Koehler
      GOOD PLAN--ALSO PULL PLUGS AND LUBE THE CYLINDERS(red mistery oil) pre lube cam and anything you can see --top and bottom crank engine (without starting)
      Message 2 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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        GOOD PLAN--ALSO PULL PLUGS AND LUBE THE CYLINDERS(red mistery oil)
        pre lube cam and anything you can see --top and bottom crank engine
        (without starting) until you get oil pressure.--







        - In Crosley_Gang@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Frost"
        <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
        >
        > Morning folks,
        > I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple
        years ago
        > and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-
        20
        > tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition
        of it,
        > I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked
        good.
        > No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
        > Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication,
        etc.
        > before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
        > pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
        > parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
        > Thanks
        > Ron Frost
        >
      • ROBERT PRICE
        Good Morning to you, I am sure you will get a lot of advice on what to do. I got a 47 Crosley that had been sitting in the woods in the Oakland Hills for 20
        Message 3 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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          Good Morning to you,

          I am sure you will get a lot of advice on what to do. I got a 47 Crosley that had been sitting in the woods in the Oakland Hills for 20 years. I just changed the oil and spark plugs and fired it up after bypassing the fuel lines and pump. I ran, no problem except for huge amount of accumilated grease. I think the oil pump should do the job. Give the valve train a few skirts and off you go.

          Sound like a neat project.

          Good luck,

          Bob

          Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
          Morning folks,
          I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
          and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
          tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
          I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
          No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
          Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
          before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
          pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
          parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
          Thanks
          Ron Frost





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        • Ed Limke
          Howdy from SD: Ron Drop the Pan and clean the oil pump. Check the compression their should not be more than 10# deffrentrencs between any cylinders regards ED
          Message 4 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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            Howdy from SD: Ron Drop the Pan and clean the oil pump. Check the compression their should not be more than 10# deffrentrencs between any cylinders regards ED
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: Ron Frost
            To: Crosley_Gang@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 5:33 AM
            Subject: [Crosley_Gang] Looking for some engine advice


            Morning folks,
            I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
            and am in the process ofRon installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
            tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
            I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
            No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
            Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
            before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
            pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
            parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
            Thanks
            Ron Frost





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          • Jim Bollman
            Ron, You should pull the water jackets off and clean any sediment and rust that has collected. It will save you some overheating problems in the future. If
            Message 5 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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              Ron, You should pull the water jackets off and clean any sediment
              and rust that has collected. It will save you some overheating
              problems in the future.

              If you get lower than expected or unbalanced compression between
              cylinders the suggested Marvel Mystery Oil suggested by Chuck may
              help. Squirt some in the cylinders crank it over and let it sit for
              awhile, add more, turn over again let it sit. If it is just the
              rings stuck it may free up and increase the compression. If it is a
              burn valves then time for a tear down. I brought back an engine
              that had compression readings around zero on 3 of the 4 cylinders
              using a Marvel Mystery Oil and patience.

              Jim...

              On Mar 1, 2006, at 6:33 AM, Ron Frost wrote:

              > Morning folks,
              > I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years
              > ago
              > and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
              > tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of
              > it,
              > I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
              > No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
              > Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
              > before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
              > pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
              > parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
              > Thanks
              > Ron Frost
            • aenderle3@cox.net
              ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              Message 6 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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                > Hi folks, I am needing advice on the proper method of removing the steering wheel from both a 51 wagon and a 49 pick up. Thanks much
                > From: Jim Bollman <Jim@...>
                > Date: 2006/03/01 Wed PM 12:17:13 EST
                > To: Crosley_Gang@yahoogroups.com
                > Subject: Re: [Crosley_Gang] Looking for some engine advice
                >
                >


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • gary simpson
                Jim s advice is good. Marvel Mystery oil will work wonders on stuck rings. Isn t it wonderful having an engine which has side plates allowing you to clean
                Message 7 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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                  Jim's advice is good. Marvel Mystery oil will work wonders on stuck rings. Isn't it wonderful having an engine which has side plates allowing you to clean the cooling passages and actually SEE the outside of the cylinders!

                  Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote: Ron, You should pull the water jackets off and clean any sediment
                  and rust that has collected. It will save you some overheating
                  problems in the future.

                  If you get lower than expected or unbalanced compression between
                  cylinders the suggested Marvel Mystery Oil suggested by Chuck may
                  help. Squirt some in the cylinders crank it over and let it sit for
                  awhile, add more, turn over again let it sit. If it is just the
                  rings stuck it may free up and increase the compression. If it is a
                  burn valves then time for a tear down. I brought back an engine
                  that had compression readings around zero on 3 of the 4 cylinders
                  using a Marvel Mystery Oil and patience.

                  Jim...

                  On Mar 1, 2006, at 6:33 AM, Ron Frost wrote:

                  > Morning folks,
                  > I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years
                  > ago
                  > and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
                  > tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of
                  > it,
                  > I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
                  > No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                  > Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
                  > before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                  > pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                  > parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                  > Thanks
                  > Ron Frost


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                • Ron Frost, Kersey, PA
                  Thanks Guys. I m definately going to pull the oil pump and clean it, then pull the water jacket covers. Red Marvel also will go into the cylinders a while
                  Message 8 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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                    Thanks Guys. I'm definately going to pull the oil pump and clean it, then pull the water jacket covers. Red Marvel also will go into the cylinders a while befors running it. Right now the cold weather here in Western PA has stopped all progress on the little tractor but as soon as it warms up a little I'll be out there.
                    Thanks again
                    Ron

                    Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
                    Morning folks,
                    I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
                    and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
                    tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
                    I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
                    No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                    Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
                    before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                    pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                    parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                    Thanks
                    Ron Frost





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                    Ron Frost
                    Kersey, PA
                    http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4070123&a=30427007&f=0

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                  • gary simpson
                    lube the cam wih break in lube. Ron Frost, Kersey, PA wrote: Thanks Guys. I m definately going to pull the oil pump and clean it,
                    Message 9 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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                      lube the cam wih break in lube.

                      "Ron Frost, Kersey, PA" <ron217_2000@...> wrote: Thanks Guys. I'm definately going to pull the oil pump and clean it, then pull the water jacket covers. Red Marvel also will go into the cylinders a while befors running it. Right now the cold weather here in Western PA has stopped all progress on the little tractor but as soon as it warms up a little I'll be out there.
                      Thanks again
                      Ron

                      Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
                      Morning folks,
                      I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
                      and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
                      tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
                      I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
                      No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                      Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
                      before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                      pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                      parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                      Thanks
                      Ron Frost





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                      ---------------------------------






                      Ron Frost
                      Kersey, PA
                      http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4070123&a=30427007&f=0

                      http://community.webshots.com/user/ron15846

                      " Collector of other peoples cultured merchandise "





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                    • Robert Connearney
                      Ron, The procedure should be governed by extreme caution; bearings are not so easy to find. As suggested, clean the pump. If there are any plugs or lines (like
                      Message 10 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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                        Ron,

                        The procedure should be governed by extreme caution; bearings are not so easy to find. As suggested, clean the pump. If there are any plugs or lines (like to an oil filter, or pressure gage) you can remove to give you access into the oil galleys for inspection, do that. Pull the spark plugs and lube the cylinders. Squirt oil adjacent to the cam and lower end bearings, including piston pins, and you should be able to get some onto the valve stems. (Since you've already turned the engine over, it's apparent there are no valves stuck closed.) Leave the plugs out so there is no compression loading on the pistons, and turn the engine over by hand, until you're convinced the oil has found its way into the bearings. Obviously, replace oil filter if so fitted. Put the pan on with fresh oil; you should then be able to get some oil pressure by turning over by hand, or at least an indication of oil circulating at a loosened hose fitting. Check for oil pressure using the starter. Put the
                        spark plugs back and (assuming the points and carburetor are functional), start it up. Good luck.

                        Bob Connearney

                        Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
                        Morning folks,
                        I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
                        and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
                        tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
                        I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
                        No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                        Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
                        before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                        pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                        parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                        Thanks
                        Ron Frost




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                      • seb fontana
                        ... turned the engine over, it s apparent there are no valves stuck closed.) Just a note: they can be stuck open too..I have in the past pumped oil into an
                        Message 11 of 13 , Mar 1, 2006
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                          ---"(Since you've already
                          turned the engine over, it's apparent there are no valves stuck
                          closed.)" Just a note: they can be stuck open too..I have in the
                          past pumped oil into an engines oil gallys to prime/purge by two
                          methodes..1) I emptied a grease gun of the grease, refilled with
                          engine oil and having plumbed [t'd]it to the oil pressure gage port;
                          pumped away keeping the pressure below 60 #..2) Plumbed a running
                          engine [at the time my 6cyl comet] via the oil pressure gage port to
                          the oil pressure port of the Ford flatmotor I wanted to run..with a
                          small ball valve in the line in "off" position I started the Comet
                          and then opened the valve a little watching the pressure gage that
                          was attached at the flatmotor end...I had the oil a quart low in the
                          flatmotor and primed it until the dip stick read full, figured a
                          quart was enough...cranked it over some in the prime time..Seb.



                          Robert Connearney <rconnearney@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Ron,
                          >
                          > The procedure should be governed by extreme caution; bearings
                          are not so easy to find. As suggested, clean the pump. If there are
                          any plugs or lines (like to an oil filter, or pressure gage) you can
                          remove to give you access into the oil galleys for inspection, do
                          that. Pull the spark plugs and lube the cylinders. Squirt oil
                          adjacent to the cam and lower end bearings, including piston pins,
                          and you should be able to get some onto the valve stems. (Since
                          you've already turned the engine over, it's apparent there are no
                          valves stuck closed.) Leave the plugs out so there is no compression
                          loading on the pistons, and turn the engine over by hand, until
                          you're convinced the oil has found its way into the bearings.
                          Obviously, replace oil filter if so fitted. Put the pan on with
                          fresh oil; you should then be able to get some oil pressure by
                          turning over by hand, or at least an indication of oil circulating
                          at a loosened hose fitting. Check for oil pressure using the
                          starter. Put the
                          > spark plugs back and (assuming the points and carburetor are
                          functional), start it up. Good luck.
                          >
                          > Bob Connearney
                          >
                          > Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
                          > Morning folks,
                          > I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple
                          years ago
                          > and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-
                          20
                          > tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition
                          of it,
                          > I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked
                          good.
                          > No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                          > Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication,
                          etc.
                          > before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                          > pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                          > parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                          > Thanks
                          > Ron Frost
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > ---------------------------------
                          > Yahoo! Mail
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                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
                        • Ron Frost, Kersey, PA
                          Good ideas. I probably will use the grease gun idea. Thanks Ron ... turned the engine over, it s apparent there are no valves stuck closed.) Just a note:
                          Message 12 of 13 , Mar 2, 2006
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                            Good ideas. I probably will use the grease gun idea.
                            Thanks
                            Ron

                            seb fontana <speedoo51@...> wrote:
                            ---"(Since you've already
                            turned the engine over, it's apparent there are no valves stuck
                            closed.)" Just a note: they can be stuck open too..I have in the
                            past pumped oil into an engines oil gallys to prime/purge by two
                            methodes..1) I emptied a grease gun of the grease, refilled with
                            engine oil and having plumbed [t'd]it to the oil pressure gage port;
                            pumped away keeping the pressure below 60 #..2) Plumbed a running
                            engine [at the time my 6cyl comet] via the oil pressure gage port to
                            the oil pressure port of the Ford flatmotor I wanted to run..with a
                            small ball valve in the line in "off" position I started the Comet
                            and then opened the valve a little watching the pressure gage that
                            was attached at the flatmotor end...I had the oil a quart low in the
                            flatmotor and primed it until the dip stick read full, figured a
                            quart was enough...cranked it over some in the prime time..Seb.



                            Robert Connearney <rconnearney@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Ron,
                            >
                            > The procedure should be governed by extreme caution; bearings
                            are not so easy to find. As suggested, clean the pump. If there are
                            any plugs or lines (like to an oil filter, or pressure gage) you can
                            remove to give you access into the oil galleys for inspection, do
                            that. Pull the spark plugs and lube the cylinders. Squirt oil
                            adjacent to the cam and lower end bearings, including piston pins,
                            and you should be able to get some onto the valve stems. (Since
                            you've already turned the engine over, it's apparent there are no
                            valves stuck closed.) Leave the plugs out so there is no compression
                            loading on the pistons, and turn the engine over by hand, until
                            you're convinced the oil has found its way into the bearings.
                            Obviously, replace oil filter if so fitted. Put the pan on with
                            fresh oil; you should then be able to get some oil pressure by
                            turning over by hand, or at least an indication of oil circulating
                            at a loosened hose fitting. Check for oil pressure using the
                            starter. Put the
                            > spark plugs back and (assuming the points and carburetor are
                            functional), start it up. Good luck.
                            >
                            > Bob Connearney
                            >
                            > Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
                            > Morning folks,
                            > I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple
                            years ago
                            > and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-
                            20
                            > tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition
                            of it,
                            > I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked
                            good.
                            > No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                            > Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication,
                            etc.
                            > before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                            > pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                            > parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                            > Thanks
                            > Ron Frost
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > ---------------------------------
                            > Yahoo! Mail
                            > Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
                            >
                            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            >






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                            Ron Frost
                            Kersey, PA
                            http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4070123&a=30427007&f=0

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                          • Ron Frost, Kersey, PA
                            Thanks Bob, This all makes sence to me. Ron Robert Connearney wrote: Ron, The procedure should be governed by extreme caution; bearings
                            Message 13 of 13 , Mar 2, 2006
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                              Thanks Bob, This all makes sence to me.
                              Ron

                              Robert Connearney <rconnearney@...> wrote:
                              Ron,

                              The procedure should be governed by extreme caution; bearings are not so easy to find. As suggested, clean the pump. If there are any plugs or lines (like to an oil filter, or pressure gage) you can remove to give you access into the oil galleys for inspection, do that. Pull the spark plugs and lube the cylinders. Squirt oil adjacent to the cam and lower end bearings, including piston pins, and you should be able to get some onto the valve stems. (Since you've already turned the engine over, it's apparent there are no valves stuck closed.) Leave the plugs out so there is no compression loading on the pistons, and turn the engine over by hand, until you're convinced the oil has found its way into the bearings. Obviously, replace oil filter if so fitted. Put the pan on with fresh oil; you should then be able to get some oil pressure by turning over by hand, or at least an indication of oil circulating at a loosened hose fitting. Check for oil pressure using the starter. Put the
                              spark plugs back and (assuming the points and carburetor are functional), start it up. Good luck.

                              Bob Connearney

                              Ron Frost <ron217_2000@...> wrote:
                              Morning folks,
                              I have a 1947 ?? 4 banger engine I bought at auction a couple years ago
                              and am in the process of installing it in a half sized Farmall F-20
                              tractor I'm building. In that I know nothing about the condition of it,
                              I pulled the pan and valve cover. To my amazement it all looked good.
                              No rust and reasonably clean. The engine turns freely by hand.
                              Now, my question is, What shall I do to help it with lubrication, etc.
                              before I actually try and run it? I was thinking of externally
                              pressurizing the lube system and working oil in around the top end
                              parts. Are there other areas that may need attention before hand?
                              Thanks
                              Ron Frost




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                              ---------------------------------






                              Ron Frost
                              Kersey, PA
                              http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4070123&a=30427007&f=0

                              http://community.webshots.com/user/ron15846

                              " Collector of other peoples cultured merchandise "





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