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Hot shot Parts help

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  • Robert Kirk
    Folks I am starting to get desperate to find, beg, borrow, buy, steal...not really top bows for early Hot Shot. If I had some measurements I could make do
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 1, 2006
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      Folks I am starting to get desperate to find, beg, borrow, buy, steal...not really
      top bows for early Hot Shot.  If I had some measurements I could make do and/or patterns would be very good.  My car has the single slot receivers next to the seats which allows the mech. to slide into place.  I beleive it is a Y with two legs going upward on each side making the hoop to hold the top. 
       
      I also need exhaust headers...rather have Braje but would accept anything....
       
      Cash for trade!
       
      THANKS


      Regards,
      Robert Kirk
      www.kirks-auto.com


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    • Robert Kirk
      I do hope someone will take the time to answer this. I am working on an early engine with the cut out relay on the genny. Genny puts out and is wired from its
      Message 2 of 4 , Sep 10, 2006
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        I do hope someone will take the time to answer this. I am working on an early
        engine with the cut out relay on the genny. Genny puts out and is wired from
        its single armature post to the G) for generator post on the relay and from the
        B) for battery post to the amp gauge.
        I have voltage out of the genny but see no idication of voltage flow to the
        ammeter. The contacts on the cut out don't seem to open or close with rpm
        fluctuation. My Harbor Frieght test gauge also goes haywire when the car is running.....RF? I suspect. So I am forced to do static testing. I also get unusual and perhaps
        erroneous reads checking both sides of the cut out for ohms....as .5 on a known
        complete path and 35.0 across the relay terminals when the contacts are
        OPEN.....makes no sense.

        I am concerned about buring up the genny running the car even to test. I
        suppose anything is possible but I can't figure why the amp gauge doesn't
        move....even when starting. When I disconnect the B wire from relay at rest I
        do read voltage...from the Battery.

        Its a used relay and I have swapped motors in the car....I beleive the gauge
        worked with the other motor which had the two terminal larger genny and voltage
        regulator. Everything is positive grounded.


        In other words both sides of the relay and both sides of the gauge seem
        hot...but I am unable to determine what if anything is not working....HELP?
         
        The genny only has one post...EARLY...THE POST IS ARMATURE
        OUTPUT....as I understand it is self gounded internally on the positive
        swing...I have determined it puts out by itself...disconnected from
        the relay. I have also determined the line from the amp gauge is
        hot...What I can't dertime is whether or not the relay...old...is OK
        and/or the guage is bad....
        I need a test for the simple cut out relay....and a test for my
        guage...something is off.....the gauge doesn't move and my headlights
        don't work...
         
        ONE POSSIBILITY I ARRIVED AT TODAY IS THE FOLLOWING to test the amp gauge....would it work without damaging anything?
        It so happens I left the ignition switch on and drained the battery.  I have both a 6v charger and a 12 charger capable of starting a car.  My thought was to use the 12v at 75 amps and briefly touch the cut out relay's output to the gauge and see if I can make the needle register. 
         
        RK


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