Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Fry Foods - Re: [CBS] Dying Betta baby

Expand Messages
  • hamim
    Oh wow Larissa that is a complete guideline on the food section i guess. Thanks a lot. I am going to save this and name the text document as the A to Z of
    Message 1 of 12 , Aug 5, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      Oh wow Larissa that is a complete guideline on the food section i guess. Thanks a lot. I am going to save this and name the text document as "the A to Z of Betta fry food" :)
      But my problem is still the same as the babies are eating and becoming belly sliders at the same time. I lowered the water level,did not feed them for 1 and a half days and lessened the feeding to 2 times a day(with 80% WC). But they are still having this swim-bladder problem. What should I do?

      --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "Lari" <alatri@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > For the growing fish, if you don't mind having a lot of strange living things in your home, this is a general guide towards age/size range and types of food.
      >
      > First born / free swim
      > - Infusoria. Use java moss that has been in a tank with a lot of natural light so it has lots of infusoria with it. (outside water, basically, but it's better if it's tank water with plants, as long as the infusoria haven't been eaten).
      > - Vinegar Eels. Pain in the rear to harvest, but they are a perfect size and they last for a very long time in the water. Swim in all water levels, tending to the upper.
      >
      > A few days old and growing
      > - Baby Brine Shrimp (bbs). Excellent first foods. The fry love them to pieces. Careful not to overfeed or there can be swim bladder problems.
      > - Micro worms / Walter worms / Banana worms. Excellent first foods, easy to culture and take care of. The worms sink to the bottom, so better for lower level fry tanks. Alternate with the Brine Shrimp! An exclusive diet of micro worms is missing a vital development protein and the fish will develop without ventral fins (not genetic - offspring will have ventrals again). Those three types of worms really all are different under the microscope, though they all culture identically. I usually alternate with both bbs and the various micro/walter/banana worms.
      >
      > 3weeks/Month old (depending on size)
      > - Grindal worms. Larger than micros but still small and easy for the fish to eat. Alternate with bbs and supplement with the micros.
      >
      > 2 months (depending on size)
      > - White worms. Bigger than grindals. Etc.
      >
      > 3 months (depending on size)
      > - Tubifex / Black worms. Biggest of the live food set, usually. Adults eat them too.
      >
      > Careful on the size of the worms for the size of the fish - I've seen fry choke to death eating worms too big for them. You might have to divide out your spawn tank based on relative size if the big ones are eating worms too big for the little ones. (Or you can say "well, that was a stupid fish anyhow.")
      >
      > Almost all of those can be bought on aquabid as starter cultures, with instructions on cultivating and harvesting.
      >
      >
      > Dry foods can also be used, though it's a little hard to train the smallest fish to it. If I want to get them to flake food early, at about 3weeks to a month, I'll toss a bunch of baby guppies in with them (same basic size) and then start feeding the flake food. The guppies will eat it instinctively, and the bettas will learn it from the guppies.
      >
      > If they're still in community tanks at 3 months, just throw in the flake food and they'll eat it without a problem - the competition level is high at that age and they will learn rapidly that it's editable.
      >
      >
      >
      > -- Lari
      >
      >
      > --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "hamim" <hamimahmed@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Thanks for the detailed information about Fry Food. I had been making BHM that night and threw a little to the 1 month old fry tank. Now i think that caused the problem. I will keep that in mind. Thanks Cleo.. :)
      > >
      >
    • Lari
      Alternate the type of foods you re feeding them, and continue the 2 times a day feeding, only as much as they ll consume within 10min at a time. Usually
      Message 2 of 12 , Aug 5, 2011
      • 0 Attachment
        Alternate the type of foods you're feeding them, and continue the 2 times a day feeding, only as much as they'll consume within 10min at a time.

        Usually belly-sliders correct themselves with 7-10 days on the new diet, though there will always be some in the spawn that will continue to have problems (about 10%), and late in life the older fish might revert (or at sudden shocks).

        -- Lari


        --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "hamim" <hamimahmed@...> wrote:
        >
        > Oh wow Larissa that is a complete guideline on the food section i guess. Thanks a lot. I am going to save this and name the text document as "the A to Z of Betta fry food" :)
        > But my problem is still the same as the babies are eating and becoming belly sliders at the same time. I lowered the water level,did not feed them for 1 and a half days and lessened the feeding to 2 times a day(with 80% WC). But they are still having this swim-bladder problem. What should I do?

        > --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "Lari" <alatri@> wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > > For the growing fish, if you don't mind having a lot of strange living things in your home, this is a general guide towards age/size range and types of food.
        > >
        > > First born / free swim
        > > - Infusoria. Use java moss that has been in a tank with a lot of natural light so it has lots of infusoria with it. (outside water, basically, but it's better if it's tank water with plants, as long as the infusoria haven't been eaten).
        > > - Vinegar Eels. Pain in the rear to harvest, but they are a perfect size and they last for a very long time in the water. Swim in all water levels, tending to the upper.
        > >
        > > A few days old and growing
        > > - Baby Brine Shrimp (bbs). Excellent first foods. The fry love them to pieces. Careful not to overfeed or there can be swim bladder problems.
        > > - Micro worms / Walter worms / Banana worms. Excellent first foods, easy to culture and take care of. The worms sink to the bottom, so better for lower level fry tanks. Alternate with the Brine Shrimp! An exclusive diet of micro worms is missing a vital development protein and the fish will develop without ventral fins (not genetic - offspring will have ventrals again). Those three types of worms really all are different under the microscope, though they all culture identically. I usually alternate with both bbs and the various micro/walter/banana worms.
        > >
        > > 3weeks/Month old (depending on size)
        > > - Grindal worms. Larger than micros but still small and easy for the fish to eat. Alternate with bbs and supplement with the micros.
        > >
        > > 2 months (depending on size)
        > > - White worms. Bigger than grindals. Etc.
        > >
        > > 3 months (depending on size)
        > > - Tubifex / Black worms. Biggest of the live food set, usually. Adults eat them too.
        > >
        > > Careful on the size of the worms for the size of the fish - I've seen fry choke to death eating worms too big for them. You might have to divide out your spawn tank based on relative size if the big ones are eating worms too big for the little ones. (Or you can say "well, that was a stupid fish anyhow.")
        > >
        > > Almost all of those can be bought on aquabid as starter cultures, with instructions on cultivating and harvesting.
        > >
        > >
        > > Dry foods can also be used, though it's a little hard to train the smallest fish to it. If I want to get them to flake food early, at about 3weeks to a month, I'll toss a bunch of baby guppies in with them (same basic size) and then start feeding the flake food. The guppies will eat it instinctively, and the bettas will learn it from the guppies.
        > >
        > > If they're still in community tanks at 3 months, just throw in the flake food and they'll eat it without a problem - the competition level is high at that age and they will learn rapidly that it's editable.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > -- Lari
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "hamim" <hamimahmed@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Thanks for the detailed information about Fry Food. I had been making BHM that night and threw a little to the 1 month old fry tank. Now i think that caused the problem. I will keep that in mind. Thanks Cleo.. :)
        > > >
        > >
        >
      • hamim
        Thanks for the words of hope, Lari. Good for me, no more fries died after that one.
        Message 3 of 12 , Aug 5, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          Thanks for the words of hope, Lari. Good for me, no more fries died after that one.

          --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "Lari" <alatri@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > Alternate the type of foods you're feeding them, and continue the 2 times a day feeding, only as much as they'll consume within 10min at a time.
          >
          > Usually belly-sliders correct themselves with 7-10 days on the new diet, though there will always be some in the spawn that will continue to have problems (about 10%), and late in life the older fish might revert (or at sudden shocks).
          >
          > -- Lari
          >
          >
          > --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "hamim" <hamimahmed@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Oh wow Larissa that is a complete guideline on the food section i guess. Thanks a lot. I am going to save this and name the text document as "the A to Z of Betta fry food" :)
          > > But my problem is still the same as the babies are eating and becoming belly sliders at the same time. I lowered the water level,did not feed them for 1 and a half days and lessened the feeding to 2 times a day(with 80% WC). But they are still having this swim-bladder problem. What should I do?
          >
          > > --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "Lari" <alatri@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > For the growing fish, if you don't mind having a lot of strange living things in your home, this is a general guide towards age/size range and types of food.
          > > >
          > > > First born / free swim
          > > > - Infusoria. Use java moss that has been in a tank with a lot of natural light so it has lots of infusoria with it. (outside water, basically, but it's better if it's tank water with plants, as long as the infusoria haven't been eaten).
          > > > - Vinegar Eels. Pain in the rear to harvest, but they are a perfect size and they last for a very long time in the water. Swim in all water levels, tending to the upper.
          > > >
          > > > A few days old and growing
          > > > - Baby Brine Shrimp (bbs). Excellent first foods. The fry love them to pieces. Careful not to overfeed or there can be swim bladder problems.
          > > > - Micro worms / Walter worms / Banana worms. Excellent first foods, easy to culture and take care of. The worms sink to the bottom, so better for lower level fry tanks. Alternate with the Brine Shrimp! An exclusive diet of micro worms is missing a vital development protein and the fish will develop without ventral fins (not genetic - offspring will have ventrals again). Those three types of worms really all are different under the microscope, though they all culture identically. I usually alternate with both bbs and the various micro/walter/banana worms.
          > > >
          > > > 3weeks/Month old (depending on size)
          > > > - Grindal worms. Larger than micros but still small and easy for the fish to eat. Alternate with bbs and supplement with the micros.
          > > >
          > > > 2 months (depending on size)
          > > > - White worms. Bigger than grindals. Etc.
          > > >
          > > > 3 months (depending on size)
          > > > - Tubifex / Black worms. Biggest of the live food set, usually. Adults eat them too.
          > > >
          > > > Careful on the size of the worms for the size of the fish - I've seen fry choke to death eating worms too big for them. You might have to divide out your spawn tank based on relative size if the big ones are eating worms too big for the little ones. (Or you can say "well, that was a stupid fish anyhow.")
          > > >
          > > > Almost all of those can be bought on aquabid as starter cultures, with instructions on cultivating and harvesting.
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Dry foods can also be used, though it's a little hard to train the smallest fish to it. If I want to get them to flake food early, at about 3weeks to a month, I'll toss a bunch of baby guppies in with them (same basic size) and then start feeding the flake food. The guppies will eat it instinctively, and the bettas will learn it from the guppies.
          > > >
          > > > If they're still in community tanks at 3 months, just throw in the flake food and they'll eat it without a problem - the competition level is high at that age and they will learn rapidly that it's editable.
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > -- Lari
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > --- In CaliforniaBettas@yahoogroups.com, "hamim" <hamimahmed@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > Thanks for the detailed information about Fry Food. I had been making BHM that night and threw a little to the 1 month old fry tank. Now i think that caused the problem. I will keep that in mind. Thanks Cleo.. :)
          > > > >
          > > >
          > >
          >
        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.