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472/500 swap into 80's DeVille

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  • ja70cad
    This was posted by Russ on the MTS message board. I ve done an 80 Deville conversion and wrote a bit of a what to do list . You are really going to like
    Message 1 of 1 , Jul 9, 2002
      This was posted by "Russ" on the MTS message board.

      I've done an '80 Deville conversion and wrote a bit of a "what to do
      list". You are really going to like the swap with the rear and you
      have. Much better gears than the 368 powered cars(2.28vs3.41). Your
      tranny will die if it is not significantly beefed up. I would get a
      Turbo 400. Also you can ditch all your computer control stuff. Here's
      my list:My donor engine is a '68 472 and matching tranny (turbo 400).
      My car is a 1980 Sedan Deville with a 368. I always loved the ride of
      this car but couldn't get over the lack of power. So I got hooked up
      with this message board and began to learn. First of all, you'll want
      to keep the following parts from your 368: alternator & bracket (air
      pump shares this), air conditioning compressor, HEI distributor,
      spark plugs (if decent), heater and radiator hoses, starter flywheel,
      your exhaust y-pipe, oil pickup tube, oil pump, oil pan (its the rear
      sump to clear your cross member), radiator, transmission mount and
      transmission lines. As stated by others, this is a very easy engine
      swap. The only real modification required in the engine compartment
      is cutting off about 1/2 inch of the control arm bolt on the
      passenger side. It has been suggested to me that this bolt can also
      be removed and installed backwards to get the extra room required.
      The advantage to this is that it would allow you to run more radical
      tires in the front.I used the 472 exhaust manifolds (the plastic
      cover in the control arm has to go) and they tuck neatly into the
      control arm with about 1/4 inch clearance. These manifolds are huge
      but they do fit. I replaced the motor mounts (get ones that are for
      your year of car ~ anybody want a new set for a '68 Cad - cheap).
      This is not a fun job, the bolts are a pain to get to. The oil pan
      from your 368 will fit directly onto you 472 or 500, but you will
      need to fabricate a new oil pickup tube. Al tells me that this step
      is only required if your donor engine is a 1968. After that year the
      switched to the larger hole in the block. Use the 472/500 to fit in
      the block and weld the 368 tube to it to fit (different size openings
      in block). Use the oil pump from your 368, it will fit fine and
      clears everything. Use the HEI from 368, it works fine and is hassle
      free (put an advance kit in it later). Make sure the transmission you
      use has the same tailstock as the one on your original car. This was
      a costly mistake I made. New custom driveshafts are not cheap.
      Install motor, hook up all connections, etc. I used direct manifold
      vacuum for everything. Here are some of the minor problems I've had:
      wrong tailstock length - tranny back to shop and install short
      tailstock- interior heating system would not work (originally hooked
      up to ported carb. vacuum ~ only worked if car WOT)- no interior
      heat, ever (need to ground the sensor ~ one wire - green I think)-
      engine temp light constantly glowed dimly, probably an engine ground
      problem (installed engine temp gauge - no guessing now)- replaced
      master brake cylinder because of loud hissing (had to remove cruise
      control and when I pressed brake, vacuum leak huge - replaced master
      cylinder then figured out vacuum leak, duh)- exhaust system was
      butchered into duel exhaust (used parts of both y-pipes, cut them
      apart, welded plates etc.) The 368 single exhaust exits on the right,
      my 472 originally exited on the left. The original y-pipe on your car
      will not fit your new engine.- I used the flywheel from the 368
      because it was much more substantially built than the original in the
      472. I used the rebuilt starter from the 472. The flywheel appeared
      to be bit larger in outside diameter, so I had to grind out the
      opening a bit on the starter so the gears wouldn't hit. Also had to
      shim out starter, it was engaging too tightly.- heater core hoses
      need to be hooked up like this - water pump to vacuum valve, return
      to your rad. The other spots on the block that I tried to return to
      did not allow adequate return flow.- I have not yet rigged up the
      cruise control. The old one rigged onto the plastic valve cover.
      Winter project. When you hook up your accessories (i.e. power
      steering, alternator, air conditioning) you will need lots of washers
      to make everything align up right. I removed the air pump from my car
      and installed used pulleys from a 425 that didn't have an air pump.
      Al at MTS can help with this one (ask about his new cool aluminum
      pulleys). You'll need to get a water pump pulley shim set as well for
      this change. Updates:Now installed custom full length headers. Lots
      and lots of work but they look & sound cool.Installed proper duel
      exhaust. 2 1/2" with crosspipe to Cherry Bomb Turbos.Replaced QJet
      with Edelbrock 1407 for ease of setup. I believe that this carb sits
      lower too making more room for the intake I plan on this summer.Drop
      base air cleaner - same reason as above.Installing electric vacuum
      kill solinoid on trans vacuum line for harder shifts. Even with a
      shift kit my cam still produces too much vacuum at WOT. This should
      fix it. Coming Soon: Longer push rods - this summer. Forgot
      about lifter preload with reduced base camshaft. Will fix my ticks
      and give more power (valve opens up more).Edelbrock Intake - this
      summer. Now at the hot rod night my engine won't look so stock.Nicer
      valve covers - see aboveNOS 150 hp shot - next summer. Damn that
      speed bug. Need more power .Thinking about a home brew cold air
      system. Hope this rather lengthy message helps any of you out that
      are contemplating a related swap. The massive increase in power was
      worth every bit of work. Used to be that the only way to spin the
      tires was the go in reverse and throw it in drive. Not any more. Have
      fun! Russ
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