- Thanks to Smith29 for this distributor Q&A:
: Do any of you guys use advance curve
: kits? If so what kind of
: configurations do you use and do
: these kits really do anything? I
: got the kit with the red blue and
: white springs but havent installed
: it yet. Whats the best combo to
The trick is to see if you get the full advance by opening the
counterweights by hand. use a protractor to see if you get as much as
when you advance the arm the rotor attatches to.
On the later years they made the weight fingers longer so they would
bind and not give a full advance.
If you set up initial for 8 deg. you should get 34 deg. at around
3000 or less. Now if you don't you need to shorten the arms on the
original weights or the kit weights. ( the arm is the part of the
weight that contacts the shaft cam )
Centrifical advance should equal 26 degrees if you have shortened
the weight arms as I had to on my Mr. Gasket set as the weights
were the same dimensions as the original ones. Use the new arms and
the nylon bushings to prevent pivot pin wear.
Set up initial with the factory springs and about 600 rpm.
Then install the light springs and see if the advance at idle changed
( vacuum disconnected ). If it did install one heaver spring on one
side only and check again. If it didn't advance on idle you are ready
to see how much at what rpm you get.
You have to adjust from there with spring tension.
Make sure the adcance is free and easy with no springs on.
They have a tendency to freeze up from rust. I used a thin oil to
free mine up and it took several days to be real free.
I assume you have the HEI distributer.
Let me know if you have questions.
I run absolute manifold vacuum for the vac. advance as it
uses less fuel and runs cool in traffic that way. The ported
vacuum was to pass emissions and does the engine no good.
The late thin burn heats up the cat con and the manifolds to
reduce emissions. Such a deal.........