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Re: [CGWcostumers] Re: West LA Sewing & portable fiber arts - Cotehardie fitting anyone?

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  • Susan Haseltine
    Lisa, Note, I do not yet have a complete garment and have much to learn.  Please consider coming to one of the sewing sessions so we can spread the experience
    Message 1 of 3 , Mar 17 12:17 PM
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      Lisa,

      Note, I do not yet have a complete garment and have much to learn.  Please consider coming to one of the sewing sessions so we can spread the experience and maybe I can finally get fitted!

      The cotehardie I'm making has four panels 2 front 2 back with 3 shaped seams and a shaped center front opening which  I believe this is a basic 14th century woman's garment. I started with 4 hip length panels of striped twill ticking and pinned the basic shape onto my daughter leaving what I thought was plenty of spare fabric in front.  When I had pinned it to be fairly close fitting I cut the extra fabric away from the armholes and took a red marker and drew lines along the pins on every piece of fabric - front, back, both sides and shoulder seams and the neck and armholes.  I also drew a line around the widest part of her hips and belly to mark where the gores would start.  Then I took the pieces and sewed back, side & shoulder seams and put it on her again, seams on the outside, making the whole thing tighter - the bust gaped badly. I marked every change in blue. I sewed a 3" strip each side of the center front and fitted it again, pulling it tight under the bust and along the belly - at the last adjustment I had let out the hips a little and added more curve to the but area. I marked all the changes in green.

      At this point the bust is very much on the bias, which works with the tightness on the belly to encourage the bust to swell out about the position of a modern bra.  I did not try a bra-less supine fitting do to daughterly modesty, but if she ever actually wears the dress it will be a major concession to me and thus unlikely, so I figure I had pushed bullying and bribery of my model to her limits. 

      I think that one major problem I have observed on big busted women is not enough fabric in the upper chest area where the sleeves pull at the bodice fabric, thus flattening the desired swell of the bust. 

      I cut the ticking apart at the seams (not the center front) and traced the right halves of front & back onto gridded pattern paper in red.  Then I overlayed the left halves and traced differences in blue.  The I averaged differences in green.  For individuals with very asymmetric bodies 4 pattern pieces might be necessary.  I used french curves to smooth out the squiggly lines, arm & neck holes.

       For sleeves I went by arm circumference and used Burda 2447 (18th century gown) sleeve top which fitted into the armhole I had draw in and that worked out surprisingly well & my daughter even had decent arm mobility without tightness on the upper chest.  That was an accident of how I drew the armhole though, so all I can say is have enough of a sleeve head to cover the shoulder.  I will go for short sleeves on this for the reasons stated above.

      Onto gores and eyelets!

      For more detailed and knowledgeable fitting guide see:
      http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/DressFitting/DressDemo.htm

      From: fauxrari <drivergirl@...>
      To: CGWcostumers@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 10:55 PM
      Subject: [CGWcostumers] Re: West LA Sewing & portable fiber arts - Cotehardie fitting anyone?

       
      Please share your experiences! I was thinking of using a cotehardie as a basis for a Star Wars outfit I wanted to to recreate for my fabric manipulation class at CoCo and let's just say if I was a droid one might call me an R2-DD2! ;0 But I don't really have anyone to help with the fit and I haven't been happy with how some of my other mideval/late Roman draped stuff has turned out.

      Thanks!

      Lisa K-B

      --- In CGWcostumers@yahoogroups.com, "quondame" <quondame@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > Monday March 19th
      > 6:30 PM - 11:00 PM come when you can, leave when you must.
      > West LA near Overland and National (10 Fwy & 405 Fwy)
      > Call or e-mail for address 310 441-0981 quondame@...
      >
      >
      > After taking Maebh's course last month I'm taking advantage of my daughter's spring break to use her as a cotehardie guinea pig to check my understanding of draping this garment. I've discovered that interesting things can happen during the fitting process on someone with a D cup bust. I will be happy to help with fitting others and am hopeful of help for myself
      >
      > Sue Haseltine
      >



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