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mash tun manifold

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  • jeff
    i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube cooler. i built my manifold like this
    Message 1 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
      i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
      cooler. i built my manifold like this
      <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
      is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
      half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
      elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
      is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
      when i found this configuration
      <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
      this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
      the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
      of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
      side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
      rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
      is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
      the side going to work just as well?
      peace
      jeff
    • lee
      Jeff, How are you draining your system? I hope you have a hose on the outside output LOWER then the top of the holes in the manifold. Remember, this is a
      Message 2 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
        Jeff,
         
        How are you draining your system?  I hope you have a hose on the outside output LOWER then the top of the holes in the manifold.  Remember, this is a syphon.  The output of the system must be lower then the bottom of the cooler.  That means the output hose must have it’s output lower then the bottom of the cooler.
         
        Lee
        Houston
         
        From: jeff
        Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 9:26 PM
        Subject: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
         
         

        i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
        cooler. i built my manifold like this
        <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
        is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
        half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
        elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
        is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
        when i found this configuration
        <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
        this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
        the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
        of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
        side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
        rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
        is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
        the side going to work just as well?
        peace
        jeff

      • lee
        Also, you need holes in the manifold NEAR the bottoms of manifold or once the liquid is drained off the top holes, the thing will be sucking air and never pull
        Message 3 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
          Also, you need holes in the manifold NEAR the bottoms of manifold or once the liquid is drained off the top holes, the thing will be sucking air and never pull the wort off below the top holes.  (Cut long slits from top to bottom on the manifold sides)
           
          Lee
          Houston
           
          From: lee
          Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 9:33 PM
          Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
           
           

          Jeff,
           
          How are you draining your system?  I hope you have a hose on the outside output LOWER then the top of the holes in the manifold.  Remember, this is a syphon.  The output of the system must be lower then the bottom of the cooler.  That means the output hose must have it’s output lower then the bottom of the cooler.
           
          Lee
          Houston
           
          From: jeff
          Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 9:26 PM
          Subject: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
           
           

          i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
          cooler. i built my manifold like this
          <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
          is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
          half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
          elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
          is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
          when i found this configuration
          <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
          this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
          the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
          of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
          side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
          rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
          is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
          the side going to work just as well?
          peace
          jeff

        • jeff
          ... **************** ya know, i didn t really think of that when i tested it. of course in use i ll have a hose going to my kettle, but when i tested it i
          Message 4 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
            On 6/30/2012 10:33 PM, lee wrote:
            > How are you draining your system? I hope you have a hose on the outside
            > output LOWER then the top of the holes in the manifold. Remember, this
            > is a syphon. The output of the system must be lower then the bottom of
            > the cooler. That means the output hose must have it’s output lower then
            > the bottom of the cooler.
            ****************
            ya know, i didn't really think of that when i tested it. of course in
            use i'll have a hose going to my kettle, but when i tested it i didn't
            have any hooked up, just the hose barb coming out of the ball valve. the
            end of the barb is about even with the bottom of the cooler, thus being
            even with the bottom of the manifold, but it's not lower. though the
            level of the liquid left behind was a couple inches higher then this
            level. i'll have to hook up a piece of tubing and test it again tomorrow
            and see if that changes anything. even if that solves my problem, i'm
            still curious about my original question, just to know, if for nothing else.
            peace
            jeff
          • jeff
            ... *************** the slits in my manifold are facing down, the level of the liquid got no where near the top of the manifold, much less the bottom where the
            Message 5 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
              On 6/30/2012 10:37 PM, lee wrote:
              > Also, you need holes in the manifold NEAR the bottoms of manifold or
              > once the liquid is drained off the top holes, the thing will be sucking
              > air and never pull the wort off below the top holes. (Cut long slits
              > from top to bottom on the manifold sides)
              ***************
              the slits in my manifold are facing down, the level of the liquid got no
              where near the top of the manifold, much less the bottom where the slits
              are cut.
              peace
              jeff
            • lee
              I bet when you test it tomorrow, you will have a pleasant outcome and different then from your first one. Good luck! Lee Houston From: jeff Sent: Saturday,
              Message 6 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
                I bet when you test it tomorrow, you will have a pleasant outcome and different then from your first one.  Good luck!
                 
                Lee
                Houston
                 
                From: jeff
                Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 9:42 PM
                Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
                 
                 

                On 6/30/2012 10:33 PM, lee wrote:
                > How are you draining your system? I hope you have a hose on the outside
                > output LOWER then the top of the holes in the manifold. Remember, this
                > is a syphon. The output of the system must be lower then the bottom of
                > the cooler. That means the output hose must have it’s output lower then
                > the bottom of the cooler.
                ****************
                ya know, i didn't really think of that when i tested it. of course in
                use i'll have a hose going to my kettle, but when i tested it i didn't
                have any hooked up, just the hose barb coming out of the ball valve. the
                end of the barb is about even with the bottom of the cooler, thus being
                even with the bottom of the manifold, but it's not lower. though the
                level of the liquid left behind was a couple inches higher then this
                level. i'll have to hook up a piece of tubing and test it again tomorrow
                and see if that changes anything. even if that solves my problem, i'm
                still curious about my original question, just to know, if for nothing else.
                peace
                jeff

              • lee
                Yes, the system can’t be sucking air. If you have some sort of leak because of a poor connection at the cooler wall, the syphon action won’t work
                Message 7 of 29 , Jun 30, 2012
                  Yes, the system can’t be sucking air.  If you have some sort of leak because of a poor connection at the cooler wall, the syphon action won’t work properly.
                   
                  Lee
                  Houston
                   
                  From: jeff
                  Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 9:45 PM
                  Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
                   
                   

                  On 6/30/2012 10:37 PM, lee wrote:
                  > Also, you need holes in the manifold NEAR the bottoms of manifold or
                  > once the liquid is drained off the top holes, the thing will be sucking
                  > air and never pull the wort off below the top holes. (Cut long slits
                  > from top to bottom on the manifold sides)
                  ***************
                  the slits in my manifold are facing down, the level of the liquid got no
                  where near the top of the manifold, much less the bottom where the slits
                  are cut.
                  peace
                  jeff

                • Joe Strain aka Yodar
                  Here s mu Igloo with bazooka: draining to a ball-cock valve http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1229/6309647/14727403/221615274.jpg very efficient and waste-free
                  Message 8 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                    Here's mu Igloo with bazooka: draining to a ball-cock valve
                    http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1229/6309647/14727403/221615274.jpg

                    very efficient and waste-free

                    Yodar

                    "The contest for ages has been to rescue liberty from the grasp of executive power."
                    Daniel Webster

                    --- On Sat, 6/30/12, jeff <climbzen@...> wrote:


                     

                    i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
                    cooler. i built my manifold like this
                    <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
                    is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
                    half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
                    elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
                    is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
                    when i found this configuration
                    <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
                    this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
                    the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
                    of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
                    side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
                    rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
                    is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
                    the side going to work just as well?
                    peace
                    jeff

                  • Gregg Schroeder
                    Two questions on this.. 1). Yodar.... Is that a wire mesh screen on each end? Does this replace having to drill and cut into the copper? I m sure nothing gets
                    Message 9 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                      Two questions on this..

                      1). Yodar.... Is that a wire mesh screen on each end?  Does this replace having to drill and cut into the copper? I'm sure nothing gets through either.  

                      2). What do you have to do to start the siphon?  Just lowering the hose and turning the valve won't do it, correct? 

                      Thanks 
                      Gregg 



                      Sent from my iPhone


                      On Jul 1, 2012, at 8:17 AM, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...> wrote:

                       

                      Here's mu Igloo with bazooka: draining to a ball-cock valve
                      http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1229/6309647/14727403/221615274.jpg

                      very efficient and waste-free

                      Yodar

                      "The contest for ages has been to rescue liberty from the grasp of executive power."
                      Daniel Webster

                      --- On Sat, 6/30/12, jeff <climbzen@...> wrote:


                       

                      i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
                      cooler. i built my manifold like this
                      <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
                      is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
                      half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
                      elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
                      is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
                      when i found this configuration
                      <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
                      this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
                      the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
                      of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
                      side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
                      rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
                      is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
                      the side going to work just as well?
                      peace
                      jeff

                      =
                    • Joe Strain aka Yodar
                      SIPHON? I doan need no steenking siphon ; ) I drain to a stainless steel watering can to recirculate wort thru mash  before sparge and draining to Keggle
                      Message 10 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                        SIPHON? I doan need no steenking siphon ;>)

                        I drain to a stainless steel watering can to recirculate wort thru mash  before sparge and draining to Keggle

                        http://www.homebrewing.org/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-T-Screen-with-12-t-fitting-_p_895.html

                        That is a damn good price when you consider its efficiency and speed. It is set up to friction fit on copper tuning to the ballcock and disassembles easily for hosing out cleaning
                        Yodar

                        "The contest for ages has been to rescue liberty from the grasp of executive power."
                        Daniel Webster

                        --- On Sun, 7/1/12, Gregg Schroeder <beercity23@...> wrote:

                        From: Gregg Schroeder <beercity23@...>
                        Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
                        To: "BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com" <BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com>
                        Cc: "BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com" <BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com>
                        Date: Sunday, July 1, 2012, 9:36 AM

                         

                        Two questions on this..

                        1). Yodar.... Is that a wire mesh screen on each end?  Does this replace having to drill and cut into the copper? I'm sure nothing gets through either.  

                        2). What do you have to do to start the siphon?  Just lowering the hose and turning the valve won't do it, correct? 

                        Thanks 
                        Gregg 



                        Sent from my iPhone


                        On Jul 1, 2012, at 8:17 AM, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...> wrote:

                         

                        Here's mu Igloo with bazooka: draining to a ball-cock valve
                        http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1229/6309647/14727403/221615274.jpg

                        very efficient and waste-free

                        Yodar

                        "The contest for ages has been to rescue liberty from the grasp of executive power."
                        Daniel Webster

                        --- On Sat, 6/30/12, jeff <climbzen@...> wrote:


                         

                        i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
                        cooler. i built my manifold like this
                        <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
                        is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
                        half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
                        elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
                        is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
                        when i found this configuration
                        <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
                        this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
                        the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
                        of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
                        side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
                        rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
                        is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
                        the side going to work just as well?
                        peace
                        jeff

                        =
                      • jeff
                        i ran a few more tests today on my mash tun. first i added a length of hose to the output and opened the valve completely. it drained almost completely leaving
                        Message 11 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                          i ran a few more tests today on my mash tun. first i added a length of
                          hose to the output and opened the valve completely. it drained almost
                          completely leaving only a little over a cup behind, not even enough to
                          cover the floor of the mash tun. once the water level dropped below the
                          elbow going to the drain you could hear it sucking a lot of air. this
                          concerned me as it would oxygenate the hot wort flowing through it. this
                          was also a very unrealistic test as i drained about 6 gallons in around
                          3 mins. i filled it back up and drained at a more reasonable rate. i had
                          the ball valve opened just under half way and a nice slow but steady
                          stream going. the siphon failed with almost 2 gallons left in the tun.
                          so i decided to solder the elbow that was giving me all the problems.
                          put it back together and filled her back up. opened the valve about a
                          quarter and got a nice slow but steady flow. i let it go and it drained
                          all but about a cup. problem solved. i would still like to know if
                          pulling off the front tube of the manifold will pull evenly from the
                          whole manifold like pulling from the center tube or will it pull more
                          from the front half of the tun then the back half? using the shorter
                          tube coming off the front tube would work better as it won't be in the
                          way when stirring the mash like the taller tube coming off the center.
                          peace
                          jeff
                        • t2000kwt
                          I wouldn t worry too much about where the drain is coming off the manifold. Here are some things to consider in making a manifold. This is a small part of
                          Message 12 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                            I wouldn't worry too much about where the drain is coming off the
                            manifold.

                            Here are some things to consider in making a manifold. This is a small
                            part of Palmer's How to Brew book:

                            http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html

                            His simple manifold works. You can make it overly complicated, like
                            this one, if you wish:

                            http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mash-tun-manifold-overengineered-226657/

                            but plenty of us get good results with the simpler manifold or a false
                            bottom and a drain coming out from under it.

                            Even Joe's quite simple setup does a great job:

                            http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1229/6309647/14727403/221615274.jpg

                            Some people using those screens (like Joe's) use only one, and the
                            wort finds its way to the screen and drain.

                            You can buy those screens or make them yourself from the stainless
                            steel braid that covers heavy duty washing machine hoses.

                            I personally use a false bottom. Not that it's better. It's just what
                            I started with and I get good results. It's easy to clean, too.

                            http://www.listermann.com/Inventory/phalsebottomlarge.jpg

                            It came as part of a mashing setup that included a mash tun, a
                            rotating sparging arm, a separate bucket for sparge water, and some
                            additional hardware. It worked well, but I since moved to using a
                            separate mash tun (the original one wasn't insulated and my picnic
                            cooler mash tun is) and then moving the mash to the lauter tun, which
                            is a 5 gal bucket with the false bottom. I doubt that you get any real
                            improvement with the rotating sparging arm, but it allows me to walk
                            away and let the sparge water automatically get added to the lauter
                            tun once the flow rate is set.

                            Joe uses a sprinkler can, which allows him to add the sparge water
                            gently withut messing up the grain bed.

                            I am thinking of making a manifold myself, or use Joe's setup, just to
                            eliminate the messy steo pf transfering the mash to the lauter tun.
                            The false bottom could still work in the picnic cooler, or I could add
                            a second one and tie them together. I'm in no hurry to build it,
                            though, so it may never happen. :-)

                            Donald


                            On Sat, 30 Jun 2012 22:26:32 -0400, jeff <climbzen@...> wrote:






                            --- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, jeff <climbzen@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
                            > cooler. i built my manifold like this
                            > <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
                            > is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
                            > half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
                            > elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
                            > is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
                            > when i found this configuration
                            > <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
                            > this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
                            > the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
                            > of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
                            > side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
                            > rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
                            > is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
                            > the side going to work just as well?
                            > peace
                            > jeff
                            >
                          • jeff
                            ... ******************* i have palmers book and read the whole mash tun part several times before i built mine. he is a very smart man and his book and podcast
                            Message 13 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                              On 7/1/2012 4:13 PM, t2000kwt wrote:
                              > His simple manifold works. You can make it overly complicated, like
                              > this one, if you wish:
                              *******************
                              i have palmers book and read the whole mash tun part several times
                              before i built mine. he is a very smart man and his book and podcast are
                              where i got much of my brewing information. i agree that simplicity in
                              design is very important, but at the same time want the best system
                              possible with what i have available to me. overly complicated manifolds
                              such as this one probably don't get you any better extraction, just cost
                              you a whole lot more in copper.
                              *********************
                              > I personally use a false bottom. Not that it's better. It's just what
                              > I started with and I get good results. It's easy to clean, too.
                              *******************
                              don't sell your self sort, a false bottom is by far the best option, i
                              wish i could affordably make one work with my cooler. down the road i
                              plan on getting a second blichman 20 gallon kettle with there false
                              bottom for the ultimate direct fired mash tun, but until i can afford
                              that i'll have this cooler mash tun to play with.
                              peace
                              jeff
                            • t2000kwt
                              ... You could make it out of PVC pipe and save some money. I ve seen plenty of designs using plastic pipe. Make sure you get the high-temperature PVC, though.
                              Message 14 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                                --- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, jeff <climbzen@...> wrote:
                                > overly complicated manifolds
                                > such as this one probably don't get you any better extraction, just cost
                                > you a whole lot more in copper.

                                You could make it out of PVC pipe and save some money. I've seen plenty of designs using plastic pipe. Make sure you get the high-temperature PVC, though.

                                > *********************
                                > don't sell your self sort, a false bottom is by far the best option, i
                                > wish i could affordably make one work with my cooler. down the road i
                                > plan on getting a second blichman 20 gallon kettle with there false
                                > bottom for the ultimate direct fired mash tun, but until i can afford
                                > that i'll have this cooler mash tun to play with.
                                > peace
                                > jeff
                                >

                                I think you can fabricate your own false bottom out of plastic or stainless steel with a lot of drilling, or use stainless steel screen with something every so often to keep it off the bottom to allow for a place for the wort to drain.

                                Donald
                              • Lee Oxidyne
                                Most guys in my two local brew clubs feel a false bottom combined with a manifold system is best.  They have tried bazookas and don t like them as much as a
                                Message 15 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                                  Most guys in my two local brew clubs feel a false bottom combined with a manifold system is best.  They have tried bazookas and don't like them as much as a manifold.  Some of my clubs members also "hop" in a paint strainer bag which is very loose.  The bag is first stretched around a 4 inch pvc pipe coupling and then clamped to it with a large SS adjustable hose clamp.  The assembly is then held above the kettle with a brass rod lying across the kettle's top.  The combination of false bottom, manifold and bag pritty much contains everything other then the wort.  Most guys in my two groups find the bazookas clog up more then when using a manifold.
                                   
                                  Lee
                                  Houston
                                   
                                  The KGB
                                  The Rogue-Brewers
                                   
                                   
                                • Lee Oxidyne
                                  Most guys in the KGB use converted Sanke Kegs or SS pots.  They are a very serious group.  The Rogue-Brewers are a combination of newbies with simple
                                  Message 16 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                                    Most guys in the KGB use converted Sanke Kegs or SS pots.  They are a very serious group.  The Rogue-Brewers are a combination of newbies with simple equipment to serious brewers.  The KGB guys are really into the competition circuit.
                                     
                                    Lee
                                    Houston
                                  • jeff
                                    ... ******************** i used copper. for one i just like copper better then cpvc, not to mention there is already enough plastic in the tun since i am using
                                    Message 17 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                                      On 7/1/2012 7:44 PM, t2000kwt wrote:
                                      > You could make it out of PVC pipe and save some money. I've seen
                                      > plenty of designs using plastic pipe. Make sure you get the
                                      > high-temperature PVC, though.
                                      ********************
                                      i used copper. for one i just like copper better then cpvc, not to
                                      mention there is already enough plastic in the tun since i am using a
                                      cooler, no need to add anymore. also with cpvc i would have been screwed
                                      with my little dilemma of a joint sucking air in. with copper i could
                                      solder it. i know what solder is made from, i don't know what the hell
                                      pvc glue is made from, but i'm sure i don't want it in my beer. most
                                      manifolds i see these days are made from cpvc, so i'm sure it's all fine
                                      and good, just not my thing.
                                      peace
                                      jeff
                                    • jeff
                                      ... ***************** is this in there kettles or mash tun? seems like over kill to me. i don t know why you would use a manifold under a false bottom instead
                                      Message 18 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                                        On 7/1/2012 7:47 PM, Lee Oxidyne wrote:
                                        > Most guys in my two local brew clubs feel a false bottom combined with a
                                        > manifold system is best. They have tried bazookas and don't like them
                                        > as much as a manifold. Some of my clubs members also "hop" in a paint
                                        > strainer bag which is very loose. The bag is first stretched around a 4
                                        > inch pvc pipe coupling and then clamped to it with a large SS adjustable
                                        > hose clamp. The assembly is then held above the kettle with a brass rod
                                        > lying across the kettle's top. The combination of false bottom,
                                        > manifold and bag pritty much contains everything other then the wort.
                                        > Most guys in my two groups find the bazookas clog up more then when
                                        > using a manifold.
                                        *****************
                                        is this in there kettles or mash tun? seems like over kill to me. i
                                        don't know why you would use a manifold under a false bottom instead of
                                        just using a pick up tube in a mash tun, and both seem like they would
                                        be counter productive in a kettle. i have a blichmann 20 gallon kettle
                                        with a blichmann hop blocker around the pick up (both were a tax return
                                        present to my self, lol) and they work great. very little trub or hops
                                        get through. even before when i was siphoning out my wort, if i did a
                                        good whirlpool there was very little trub or hops transferred to the
                                        fermenter. i have heard of people using false bottoms in there kettles
                                        and always thought it silly, but never herd of anyone using a manifold.
                                        peace
                                        jeff
                                      • t2000kwt
                                        Australian brewers have something that they call BIAB, or brew in a bag. It keeps the grains separate from the wort in the mash/lauter tun. The bag keeps the
                                        Message 19 of 29 , Jul 1, 2012
                                          Australian brewers have something that they call BIAB, or brew in a bag. It keeps the grains separate from the wort in the mash/lauter tun. The bag keeps the grains from draining with the wort.

                                          http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Brew_in_a_Bag#A_Simple_Guide_to_Brewing_In_a_Bag

                                          It's one other option we have.

                                          Some of them also collect their wort while it's hot and put it in a container with hops and keep it sealed until the next day. I don't remember what that's called or I would post a link to it.


                                          Donald

                                          --- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, Lee Oxidyne <pulsarair@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > Most guys in my two local brew clubs feel a false bottom combined with a manifold system is best.  They have tried bazookas and don't like them as much as a manifold.  Some of my clubs members also "hop" in a paint strainer bag which is very loose.  The bag is first stretched around a 4 inch pvc pipe coupling and then clamped to it with a large SS adjustable hose clamp.  The assembly is then held above the kettle with a brass rod lying across the kettle's top.  The combination of false bottom, manifold and bag pritty much contains everything other then the wort.  Most guys in my two groups find the bazookas clog up more then when using a manifold.
                                          >  
                                          > Lee
                                          > Houston
                                          >  
                                          > The KGB
                                          > The Rogue-Brewers
                                          >
                                        • Mike
                                          Here should be my MLT in the link below awaiting approval. Used all parts of the 56 qt Coleman. Forced a 9/16 vinyl hose in about 45 minutes. Only doing
                                          Message 20 of 29 , Jul 2, 2012
                                            Here should be my MLT in the link below awaiting approval. Used all parts of the 56 qt Coleman. Forced a 9/16" vinyl hose in about 45 minutes. Only doing batch sparge in my small apt. Also moving down to 3 gallon batch sizes. Plan runoff 1 = strong beer, runoff 2 session beer.

                                            Cheers

                                            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrewingEquipment/photos/album/789425640/pic/list

                                            --- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, "lee" <pulsarxp@...> wrote:
                                            >
                                            > Jeff,
                                            >
                                            > How are you draining your system? I hope you have a hose on the outside output LOWER then the top of the holes in the manifold. Remember, this is a syphon. The output of the system must be lower then the bottom of the cooler. That means the output hose must have it’s output lower then the bottom of the cooler.
                                            >
                                            > Lee
                                            > Houston
                                            >
                                            > From: jeff
                                            > Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 9:26 PM
                                            > To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
                                            > Subject: [BrewEquip] mash tun manifold
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > i just finished building my mash tun out of a 15 gallon igloo ice cube
                                            > cooler. i built my manifold like this
                                            > <http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/4/medium/IMG_6624.JPG> only it
                                            > is made with copper not cpvc. when i drain it it leaves a gallon and a
                                            > half of water behind. none of the pipes are soldered and i think the
                                            > elbow that is coming out of the manifold and going in to the drain hole
                                            > is sucking in air. i was going to solder this joint to see if that helps
                                            > when i found this configuration
                                            > <http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_5kMlBpjMTQs/TGAE5eXkeVI/AAAAAAAAAHs/l56muP88aqs/s1600/0807001407a.jpg>.
                                            > this would help as the joint would be lower, but i'm wondering if since
                                            > the pipe going to the drain is coming out the side instead of the center
                                            > of the manifold would it still draw from the whole manifold or just the
                                            > side that it is attached to? i know a lot of people do this with
                                            > rectangular coolers also so can any one shed some light on this for me.
                                            > is it better to pull from the center the the manifold or is pulling from
                                            > the side going to work just as well?
                                            > peace
                                            > jeff
                                            >
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