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Micro hull and trailer $600 Seattle

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  • gammelgaardrf
    Ok, let s see if this moves. The interior is unfinished, the hull had some rot which I repaired with amazing amounts of CPES and a plywood patch (inside) -
    Message 1 of 3 , Sep 7 11:25 AM
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      Ok, let's see if this moves. The interior is unfinished, the hull
      had some rot which I repaired with amazing amounts of CPES and a
      plywood patch (inside) - that probably should have been plywood
      scarfed into the hull in the first place, but a fix like that was
      beyond my abilities. I think it still needs that, as the last time I
      had her in the water (2 years ago) some water did come in (few
      gallons, not a boatload). The rest of the hull is sound. I'm the
      3rd owner, so I don't have details on construction - I think fir
      ply. Pretty basic. At some point the sliding hatch had a problem,
      and the second owner "fixed" it with a hinged hatch. Stupid. Needs
      to be replaced.

      The trailer is great in some ways and not in others. I think it must
      have been custom built for the Micro. It has a long bunk for the
      keel - totally solid, then separate bunks along the side. Hard to
      describe this. One of the bunk supports bolt (u-shaped bolt) broke,
      and I took it off. (Rust in bolt - the trailer itself is galvanized,
      and in very good condition.)

      When I got it 3 years ago, I got the trailer new wheels and tires and
      bearings, and had it rewired.

      One thing the trailer has that I think of as a design flaw is that
      the turn signals are integral to the frame, at the bottom level. I
      broke the left turn signal plastic thing when I went on a curb.
      I "fixed" it with red plastic and tape - it works - but I think that
      the real fix would be to have those round bolt-on turn signals
      attached farther up the sides, so possible curb interferance wouldn't
      be a problem. Of course, some of us might not HAVE curb interference
      as an issue - so...

      I've got a storage problem with this boat. If you're thinking of
      building a Micro, this one's worth looking into. My email access is
      limited right now, so please call me at 206 387-7437. I'll answer
      any questions I can, and would be happy to make arrangements to show
      the boat.

      If you think my price is wrong - try yours! But here's part of what I
      went by: the price of scrap lead, purchased in Seattle, is $0.60 a
      lb; the Micro hull has 420 lb. Just to buy the lead for the keel
      would be $250 - plus the hassle of pouring the keel. Then - the
      trailer purchase, wood for the hull, building the hull, etc. Of
      course - on your side is the fact that I don't have a place to keep
      this boat much longer, and don't want to start paying to store it!

      (I do have the plans, as they were given me. Pretty much complete, I
      think. But - I'm not a builder, or I'd have kept this boat and fixed
      it.)
      Rosalie Gammelgaard
    • catboat15@aol.com
      In a message dated 9/7/2005 11:27:31 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, gammelgaardrf@yahoo.com writes: One thing the trailer has that I think of as a design flaw is
      Message 2 of 3 , Sep 7 6:58 PM
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        In a message dated 9/7/2005 11:27:31 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, gammelgaardrf@... writes:
        One thing the trailer has that I think of as a design flaw is that
        the turn signals are integral to the frame,
        On my boat trailer I took the provided lights off and put a set on a plank that fits over the transom of the boat. That way the lights and wiring never get into the bay when I back down.
        Another hint I picked up from one of our club members was to put a trailer hitch on the front bumper of your tow vehicle (No lights needed there) and it makes much more easy to launch and recover when you are looking out the windshield rather than a rear view window or mirror.
        On my van when the boat was off the trailer and trying to recover at our ramp I could not see the trailer at all through the back window or mirrors until I had already "jack knifed" the trailer.
        This method also keeps the driving wheels of the van on land instead of in the water on that slick moss grown ramp. (Rear wheel drive Dodge Maxi Van)
         
         
        John Meacham
        High desert of California
        Bolger Cartopper.
      • Nels
        ... Hi Rosalie, I would be interested in a bit more information if possible. I might be interested in purchasing your boat and trailer and converting it to a
        Message 3 of 3 , Sep 13 8:07 PM
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          --- In Bolger4Sale@yahoogroups.com, "gammelgaardrf"
          <gammelgaardrf@y...> wrote:
          > Ok, let's see if this moves.

          Hi Rosalie,

          I would be interested in a bit more information if possible. I might
          be interested in purchasing your boat and trailer and converting it
          to a Navigator version. Could you tell me approximately how far back
          from the bow the leak is? The reason I ask is that it may be
          possible to cover it from the outside if the latest bow modification
          is made. (The anti-slap addition.) Adding the pilothouse would also
          take care of the hatch situation.

          Would it possible to post a profile photo of the boat and trailer to
          photos here so I could see how the trailer is designed?

          Also what is your storage time limit? I am in the process of
          relocating myself so I am not certain when I could get there to pick
          it up. But I would love to because I have an indoor storage facility
          availbale in British Columbia for the winter:-)

          Perhaps give me a good time to call and I will discuss it further.

          Thanks, Nels
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