I went on and replaced all four - They were all shot. I went the gas-
adjustable route since the air shocks had already been ditched by a
previous owner and mine has bigger issues to kill my budget(severe
rust and a new exhaust system thanks to the sagging shocks).
Mine's a nice car, but it's a driver and I want it maintainable on my
budget. I have no plans to rejuvenate the air system. I've got no
clue if the compressor and ALC valve are still operational but pulled
them both and the tubing - rather it not even be on the car if it's
not functional. If any of you have a need for either component, let
You were very right Brian - The front two, no big deal but the rear
were a pain. The rear axel mounts weren't difficult to remove once I
broke the nuts free. However, the top retaining bolts are not welded
down and the heads are difficult to reach. There's virtually no
clearance and no access from the trunk and you have to bend a box-end
wrench to get a hold of the heads.
Complicating matters, these bolts are shared by body-to-frame
crossrod mounts, sandwiched between the body and the shocks. These
crossrods are (at least supposed to be) under 800-1000 pounds of
pressure. Mine weren't though, they simply fell free once I removed
the shocks. I have a feeling this is because whoever replaced the
original air shocks was too sorry to re-tension the rods. The
crossrods are NOT mentioned in the suspension section of the service
manual, so I guess it's almost a good thing they weren't under
pressure when I loosened them.
Installation wasn't difficult at all - just followed the manual.
With the new shocks installed and the crossrods tensioned, the ride
is simply exquisite!
--- In Big_Eldorado@yahoogroups.com, "76 Eldorado" <76eldo@...> wrote:
> The rears are auto-leveling air shocks that require a special
tubing kit so that they are connected to the compressor under the
> If they are working, I would leave them alone.
> Replacing the fronts is no big deal. Consult your shop manual
anytime you need to get the wrenches out.