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Corrosion spots on wheels

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  • dlhughes001@juno.com
    I just got hold of some nice 27 (630mm) wheels with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad... Two questions: 1.
    Message 1 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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      I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...

      Two questions:

      1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
      2. There are little whitish spots of light corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been spattered on them. What's the best way to get rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?

      Dave Hughes
      Austin, Texas



      ____________________________________________________________
      Get your dream car or truck. Click here.

    • Steve Birmingham
      I m usually against drilling to schrader, since tubes are easy to get and the adapters are cheap. But. On most rims it s not a problem. You want to check the
      Message 2 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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        I’m usually against drilling to schrader, since tubes are easy to get and the adapters are cheap. But…

        On most rims it’s not a problem. You want to check the internal width of the rim  where  the valve hole is, some are pretty narrow there, and you want to have a nice flat seat for the tube. And be sure to deburr the hole.

         

        The corrosion or whatever it is should polish out, but if the rim is anodized you’ll usually lose all the anodizing and the rim will eventually get even uglier.

         

        Steve B

         

         

        From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dlhughes001@...
        Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 09:06 AM
        To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION@...
        Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels

         




        I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...

        Two questions:

        1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
        2. There are little whitish spots of light corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been spattered on them. What's the best way to get rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?

        Dave Hughes
        Austin, Texas



        ____________________________________________________________
        Get your dream car or truck. Click here.

      • dlhughes001@juno.com
        Yeah, the groove in the rim is 10mm (.3937 ), and the hole I d need to drill is 11/32 (.3437 ), so there won t be much left to the sides of the hole. I m
        Message 3 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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          Yeah, the 'groove' in the rim is 10mm (.3937"), and the hole I'd need to drill is 11/32" (.3437"), so there won't be much left to the sides of the hole. I'm kinda hesitant about this...but I've been told by a bike mechanic friend of mine that it should be OK. I just thought I should get some more opinions...

          Dave

          ---------- Original Message ----------
          From: "Steve Birmingham" <sbirmingham@...>
          To: <Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com>
          Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
          Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 09:24:08 -0400

          I’m usually against drilling to schrader, since tubes are easy to get and the adapters are cheap. But…

          On most rims it’s not a problem. You want to check the internal width of the rim  where  the valve hole is, some are pretty narrow there, and you want to have a nice flat seat for the tube. And be sure to deburr the hole.

           

          The corrosion or whatever it is should polish out, but if the rim is anodized you’ll usually lose all the anodizing and the rim will eventually get even uglier.

           

          Steve B

           

           

          From: Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Bicycle_ Restoration@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of dlhughes001@ juno.com
          Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 09:06 AM
          To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION @YAHOOGROUPS. COM
          Subject: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] Corrosion spots on wheels

           




          I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...

          Two questions:

          1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
          2. There are little whitish spots of light corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been spattered on them. What's the best way to get rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?

          Dave Hughes
          Austin, Texas



          ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___
          Get your dream car or truck. Click here.



          ____________________________________________________________
          Click here to find the perfect banking opportunity!

        • Rick Paulos
          I d say it depends on the rim material and the profile of the rim too. If you are drilling thru aluminun AND the shoulders (where the tire bead sits), don t.
          Message 4 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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            I'd say it depends on the rim material and the
            profile of the rim too. If you are drilling thru
            aluminun AND the shoulders (where the tire bead
            sits), don't. Wider box rims are okay. Older
            pressed steel rims are pretty wide and aren't
            usually an issue although you don't see steel presta rims very often.

            Sun rims. I've had quite a few fail. All due to
            over loading the rims. Okay before they made the
            stronger models. They cracked down the middle
            from spoke hole to spoke hole on the inner
            web. I'd feel the rim blip via the rim brakes
            when they started to buldge so I had some warning
            and never had a catestrophic failure. This has
            always left me wondering about what aluminum
            alloy sun used or if their mfg process had
            anything to do with it or if the rims were just
            too thin in the middle. There are so few rims
            available in 26" with 48 spoke holes. Well, now
            Sun has the Rhyno's and Ryno's lites so those won't ever fail.

            Rick

            At 09:17 AM 6/2/2009, you wrote:


            >Yeah, the 'groove' in the rim is 10mm (.3937"),
            >and the hole I'd need to drill is 11/32"
            >(.3437"), so there won't be much left to the
            >sides of the hole. I'm kinda hesitant about
            >this...but I've been told by a bike mechanic
            >friend of mine that it should be OK. I just
            >thought I should get some more opinions...
            >
            >Dave
            >
            >---------- Original Message ----------
            >From: "Steve Birmingham" <sbirmingham@...>
            >To: <Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com>
            >Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
            >Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 09:24:08 -0400
            >
            >I’m usually against drilling to schrader, since
            >tubes are easy to get and the adapters are cheap. But…
            >
            >On most rims it’s not a problem. You want to
            >check the internal width of the rim where the
            >valve hole is, some are pretty narrow there, and
            >you want to have a nice flat seat for the tube. And be sure to deburr the hole.
            >
            >
            >
            >The corrosion or whatever it is should polish
            >out, but if the rim is anodized you’ll usually
            >lose all the anodizing and the rim will eventually get even uglier.
            >
            >
            >
            >Steve B
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
            >[mailto:Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dlhughes001@...
            >Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 09:06 AM
            >To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION@...
            >Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels
            >with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go
            >these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...
            >
            >Two questions:
            >
            >1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve
            >stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
            >2. There are little whitish spots of light
            >corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks
            >as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been
            >spattered on them. What's the best way to get
            >rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?
            >
            >Dave Hughes
            >Austin, Texas
            >
            >
            >
            >____________________________________________________________
            ><http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2132/fc/BLSrjnsJ3RUxAWt99ZzrZTQWArANp9U5put4qnz8YAso9KL2PHIvjn3cHpG/>Get
            >your dream car or truck. Click here.
            >
            >
            >
            >____________________________________________________________
            ><http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2132/fc/BLSrjnsKoDNGP9ZC9VFMSkhGOwLq3stPS6zxEQpowAAITLNtEVyA4CDvfU0/>Click
            >here to find the perfect banking opportunity!
            >
          • Forbes Black
            Regrading drilling for Schraeder:  I m with Steve; it would be better not too, but if it looks like there is enough meat on the rim, you can go for it.  Rick
            Message 5 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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              Regrading drilling for Schraeder:  I'm with Steve; it would be better not too, but if it looks like there is enough meat on the rim, you can go for it.  Rick made an interesting point about the rims being potentially week, but I'm not sure that drilling for Schraeder valves would exacerbate this problem.

              Regarding the corrosion spots:  I would try polishing with a wet Scotchbrite pad.  That is the best way I have found to make aluminum nice and shiny.  You might want to use an older pad so that you don't scratch up any anodization on the non-corroded sections, but if you've got all that corrosion already, I'm guessing the anodization is pretty much shot already.

              Cheers,

              - Forbes Black, Santa Clarita, CA

              --- On Tue, 6/2/09, dlhughes001@... <dlhughes001@...> wrote:

              From: dlhughes001@... <dlhughes001@...>
              Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
              To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION@...
              Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009, 6:06 AM

              I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...

              Two questions:

              1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
              2. There are little whitish spots of light corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been spattered on them. What's the best way to get rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?

              Dave Hughes
              Austin, Texas



              ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___
              Get your dream car or truck. Click here.

            • dlhughes001@juno.com
              These are double-walled rims, and seem super-stout. and WTH...I spent $16 for them. I think it ll be OK. Dave ... From: Rick Paulos To:
              Message 6 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
              • 0 Attachment


                These are double-walled rims, and seem super-stout. and WTH...I spent $16 for them. I think it'll be OK.

                Dave
                ---------- Original Message ----------
                From: Rick Paulos <rick-paulos@...>
                To: "Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com" <Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com>
                Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
                Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 11:04:01 -0500

                I'd say it depends on the rim material and the
                profile of the rim too. If you are drilling thru
                aluminun AND the shoulders (where the tire bead
                sits), don't. Wider box rims are okay. Older
                pressed steel rims are pretty wide and aren't
                usually an issue although you don't see steel presta rims very often.

                Sun rims. I've had quite a few fail. All due to
                over loading the rims. Okay before they made the
                stronger models. They cracked down the middle
                from spoke hole to spoke hole on the inner
                web. I'd feel the rim blip via the rim brakes
                when they started to buldge so I had some warning
                and never had a catestrophic failure. This has
                always left me wondering about what aluminum
                alloy sun used or if their mfg process had
                anything to do with it or if the rims were just
                too thin in the middle. There are so few rims
                available in 26" with 48 spoke holes. Well, now
                Sun has the Rhyno's and Ryno's lites so those won't ever fail.

                Rick

                At 09:17 AM 6/2/2009, you wrote:

                >Yeah, the 'groove' in the rim is 10mm (.3937"),
                >and the hole I'd need to drill is 11/32"
                >(.3437"), so there won't be much left to the
                >sides of the hole. I'm kinda hesitant about
                >this...but I've been told by a bike mechanic
                >friend of mine that it should be OK. I just
                >thought I should get some more opinions...
                >
                >Dave
                >
                >---------- Original Message ----------
                >From: "Steve Birmingham" <sbirmingham@ mindspring. com>
                >To: <Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com>
                >Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] Corrosion spots on wheels
                >Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 09:24:08 -0400
                >
                >I’m usually against drilling to schrader, since
                >tubes are easy to get and the adapters are cheap. But…
                >
                >On most rims it’s not a problem. You want to
                >check the internal width of the rim where the
                >valve hole is, some are pretty narrow there, and
                >you want to have a nice flat seat for the tube. And be sure to deburr the hole.
                >
                >
                >
                >The corrosion or whatever it is should polish
                >out, but if the rim is anodized you’ll usually
                >lose all the anodizing and the rim will eventually get even uglier.
                >
                >
                >
                >Steve B
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >From: Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com
                >[mailto:Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of dlhughes001@ juno.com
                >Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 09:06 AM
                >To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION @YAHOOGROUPS. COM
                >Subject: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] Corrosion spots on wheels
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels
                >with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go
                >these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...
                >
                >Two questions:
                >
                >1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve
                >stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
                >2. There are little whitish spots of light
                >corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks
                >as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been
                >spattered on them. What's the best way to get
                >rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?
                >
                >Dave Hughes
                >Austin, Texas
                >
                >
                >
                >___________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
                ><http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2132/ fc/BLSrjnsJ3RUxA Wt99ZzrZTQWArANp 9U5put4qnz8YAso9 KL2PHIvjn3cHpG/>Get
                >your dream car or truck. Click here.
                >
                >
                >
                >___________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
                ><http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2132/ fc/BLSrjnsKoDNGP 9ZC9VFMSkhGOwLq3 stPS6zxEQpowAAIT LNtEVyA4CDvfU0/>Click
                >here to find the perfect banking opportunity!
                >



                ____________________________________________________________
                Save on Moving Supplies. Click Here!

              • putnammerriam
                ... Anyway, Keep a smile on your face, and air in those tires! Putnam, in Soulsbyville, Ca.____ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___
                Message 7 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
                • 0 Attachment
                  --- In Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com, Forbes Black <diarmaede@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Regrading drilling for Schraeder:  I'm with Steve; it would be better not too, but if it looks like there is enough meat on the rim, you can go for it.  Rick made an interesting point about the rims being potentially week, but I'm not sure that drilling for Schraeder valves would exacerbate this problem.
                  >
                  > Regarding the corrosion spots:  I would try polishing with a wet Scotchbrite pad.  That is the best way I have found to make aluminum nice and shiny.  You might want to use an older pad so that you don't scratch up any anodization on the non-corroded sections, but if you've got all that corrosion already, I'm guessing the anodization is pretty much shot already.
                  >
                  > Cheers,
                  >
                  > - Forbes Black, Santa Clarita, CA
                  >
                  > --- On Tue, 6/2/09, dlhughes001@... <dlhughes001@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > From: dlhughes001@... <dlhughes001@...>
                  > Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
                  > To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION@...
                  > Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009, 6:06 AM
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...
                  > Two questions:
                  > 1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
                  > 2. There are little whitish spots of light corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been spattered on them. What's the best way to get rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?
                  > Dave Hughes
                  > Austin, Texas
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ___As to the corrosion, I have hade great success using my "Dermmel" tool, with the felt polishing attachment, with some aluminum mag wheel polish. As a matter of fact....I've used it on everything corroded AND rusted chrome. Works great!
                  Anyway, Keep a smile on your face, and air in those tires!
                  Putnam, in Soulsbyville, Ca.____ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___
                  >
                  > Get your dream car or truck. Click here.
                  >
                • dlhughes001@juno.com
                  I did do the Dremel & metal polish on a small area of one rim, and that seemed to work pretty well. I guess I d just better block out a large chunk of time to
                  Message 8 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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                    I did do the Dremel & metal polish on a small area of one rim, and that seemed to work pretty well. I guess I'd just better block out a large chunk of time to do this job, because it's going to take a while! Getting to all the nooks & crannies on the hubs between the spokes is gonna be a beeyotch.

                    I'm just a little worried about going thru the anodized layer, though. Easy does it, I reckon...

                    These are going onto a SS-converted old Schwinn Varsity that I use for commuting, so it's really not too big a deal if they aren't pristine-looking, anyway.

                    Dave

                    .



                    ____________________________________________________________
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                  • Alan Lloyd
                    And here I am using these collars or sleves to fit presta valves in rims drilled for scraeder valves ... http://tinyurl.com/oz6xza http://tinyurl.com/obb3p2
                    Message 9 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
                    • 0 Attachment
                      And here I am using these collars or sleves to fit presta valves in rims drilled for scraeder valves ...

                      http://tinyurl.com/oz6xza
                      http://tinyurl.com/obb3p2

                      Alan Lloyd
                      Schaumburg, Illinois, USA

                      --- On Tue, 6/2/09, dlhughes001@... <dlhughes001@...> wrote:

                      From: dlhughes001@... <dlhughes001@...>
                      Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoration] Corrosion spots on wheels
                      To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009, 11:33 AM


                      These are double-walled rims, and seem super-stout. and WTH...I spent $16 for them. I think it'll be OK.

                      Dave
                      ---------- Original Message ----------
                      From: Rick Paulos <rick-paulos@ uiowa.edu>
                      To: "Bicycle_Restoratio n@yahoogroups. com" <Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com>
                      Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] Corrosion spots on wheels
                      Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 11:04:01 -0500

                      I'd say it depends on the rim material and the
                      profile of the rim too. If you are drilling thru
                      aluminun AND the shoulders (where the tire bead
                      sits), don't. Wider box rims are okay. Older
                      pressed steel rims are pretty wide and aren't
                      usually an issue although you don't see steel presta rims very often.

                      Sun rims. I've had quite a few fail. All due to
                      over loading the rims. Okay before they made the
                      stronger models. They cracked down the middle
                      from spoke hole to spoke hole on the inner
                      web. I'd feel the rim blip via the rim brakes
                      when they started to buldge so I had some warning
                      and never had a catestrophic failure. This has
                      always left me wondering about what aluminum
                      alloy sun used or if their mfg process had
                      anything to do with it or if the rims were just
                      too thin in the middle. There are so few rims
                      available in 26" with 48 spoke holes. Well, now
                      Sun has the Rhyno's and Ryno's lites so those won't ever fail.

                      Rick

                      At 09:17 AM 6/2/2009, you wrote:

                      >Yeah, the 'groove' in the rim is 10mm (.3937"),
                      >and the hole I'd need to drill is 11/32"
                      >(.3437"), so there won't be much left to the
                      >sides of the hole. I'm kinda hesitant about
                      >this...but I've been told by a bike mechanic
                      >friend of mine that it should be OK. I just
                      >thought I should get some more opinions...
                      >
                      >Dave
                      >
                      >---------- Original Message ----------
                      >From: "Steve Birmingham" <sbirmingham@ mindspring. com>
                      >To: <Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com>
                      >Subject: RE: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] Corrosion spots on wheels
                      >Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 09:24:08 -0400
                      >
                      >I’m usually against drilling to schrader, since
                      >tubes are easy to get and the adapters are cheap. But…
                      >
                      >On most rims it’s not a problem. You want to
                      >check the internal width of the rim where the
                      >valve hole is, some are pretty narrow there, and
                      >you want to have a nice flat seat for the tube. And be sure to deburr the hole.
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >The corrosion or whatever it is should polish
                      >out, but if the rim is anodized you’ll usually
                      >lose all the anodizing and the rim will eventually get even uglier.
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >Steve B
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >From: Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com
                      >[mailto:Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of dlhughes001@ juno.com
                      >Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 09:06 AM
                      >To: BICYCLE_RESTORATION @YAHOOGROUPS. COM
                      >Subject: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] Corrosion spots on wheels
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >I just got hold of some nice 27" (630mm) wheels
                      >with Maillard hubs & Sun Mistral rims. I go
                      >these for $16 on the local Craigslist. Not bad...
                      >
                      >Two questions:
                      >
                      >1. Can I safely drill out the Presta-sized valve
                      >stem holes to fit over Schrader valve stems?
                      >2. There are little whitish spots of light
                      >corrosion all over the rims & hubs, almost looks
                      >as if some mildly corrosive liquid had been
                      >spattered on them. What's the best way to get
                      >rid of those, or can they be gotten rid of at all?
                      >
                      >Dave Hughes
                      >Austin, Texas
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >___________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
                      ><http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2132/ fc/BLSrjnsJ3RUxA Wt99ZzrZTQWArANp 9U5put4qnz8YAso9 KL2PHIvjn3cHpG/>Get
                      >your dream car or truck. Click here.
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >___________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
                      ><http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2132/ fc/BLSrjnsKoDNGP 9ZC9VFMSkhGOwLq3 stPS6zxEQpowAAIT LNtEVyA4CDvfU0/>Click
                      >here to find the perfect banking opportunity!
                      >



                      ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___
                      Save on Moving Supplies. Click Here!

                    • Forbes Bagatelle-Black
                      ... Which is actually a very smart thing to do. I use the super light plastic collars on my ATB when I am running presta valves. That way if I blow a tube
                      Message 10 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
                      • 0 Attachment
                        --- In Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com, Alan Lloyd <adl2k@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > And here I am using these collars or sleves to fit presta valves in rims drilled for scraeder valves ...
                        >
                        Which is actually a very smart thing to do. I use the super light plastic collars on my ATB when I am running presta valves. That way if I blow a tube and a riding buddy only has Schraeder tubes available, I am all set. I suppose that theory would apply equally well to a touring bicycle - if you blow out a tube in East Nowhere and your only option is the Schraeder valve tubes at the local hardware store, you can pop off the collar and keep riding.

                        Cheers,

                        Forbes
                      • dlhughes001@juno.com
                        Well, I just drilled the front rim out to 11/32 to fit the Schraeder valve. It worked out pretty good, except that the rim is really narrow, and I had the
                        Message 11 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
                        • 0 Attachment

                          Well, I just drilled the front rim out to 11/32" to fit the Schraeder valve. It worked out pretty good, except that the rim is really narrow, and I had the devil of a time getting the tire bead to snug in alongside the stem on those WalMart 'Bell' brand tubes. I might eventuallyend up getting some Presta tubes and some of those bushings, and that way, as Forbes said, I could go either way.

                          Dave

                          ---------- Original Message ----------
                          From: "Forbes Bagatelle-Black" <diarmaede@...>
                          To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Re: Corrosion spots on wheels
                          Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 21:39:01 -0000

                          --- In Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com, Alan Lloyd <adl2k@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > And here I am using these collars or sleves to fit presta valves in rims drilled for scraeder valves ...
                          >
                          Which is actually a very smart thing to do. I use the super light plastic collars on my ATB when I am running presta valves. That way if I blow a tube and a riding buddy only has Schraeder tubes available, I am all set. I suppose that theory would apply equally well to a touring bicycle - if you blow out a tube in East Nowhere and your only option is the Schraeder valve tubes at the local hardware store, you can pop off the collar and keep riding.

                          Cheers,

                          Forbes



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                        • John
                          I have several sets of Mavic and Rigida wheelsets; alloy rims with steel eyelets. The eyelets are rusty, a condition pretty common here on the coast. Does
                          Message 12 of 12 , Jun 2, 2009
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                            I have several sets of Mavic and Rigida wheelsets; alloy rims with steel eyelets. The eyelets are rusty, a condition pretty common here on the coast. Does anyone have any suggestions how to clean the rust without disassembling the wheels? Or even if disassembly, cleaning the eyes without damaging the rims?

                            Too, any suggestions how to treat the eyes so the rust stays at bay? I'm thinking about clear nail polish.

                            Thanks
                            j
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