Re: [Bicycle_Restoration] considering paint jobs
- On 5/31/05, Steve Maas <shotnoise99@...> wrote:
> Actually, I think that the idea of clear coating overI agree what Steve said with one added point.
> unpainted steel sounds very cool. A couple
> 1. Often the steel frame, under the paint, just is not
> very good looking: brazing splashes, deep scratches,
> rough lugs, and so on. As long as there are no
> cosmetic problems, or you can fix any that exist, it
> could look OK.
> 2. Have you considered sanding with progressively
> finer papers and then buff with a hand-held buffer?
> You might be able to get nearly a mirror finish--now
> that would really be something!
> 3. Unprotected steel can develop light corrosion
> within hours once it's exposed to air. So, you
> probably should do the final sanding/buffing,
> cleaning, and first clear coat in one session.
> Steve Maas
> Long Beach, California
Clear coat doesn't have the same protection capability that paint
does. I'm not absolutely sure of this as I'm not paint expert, but
I'll give my rationale. Clear coat is to protect the paint from some
levels of abuse as well as overcoat any decals or paint lines in a
multi color paint scheme. To be clear it must be reasonably light or
thin, resulting in less protection.
Just like primer is a poor choice for a final paint layer, so is clear
coat. It was intended to cover something else, not bare metal and may
indeed have a tough time sticking to bare metal. That is the job of
the primer. To provide adhesion to the bare metal and a great
interface for the paint.
As it is true with the immediate rusting action, it might be best
practice to surface treat the steel with a galvanic zinc conversion
coating to get the clear to stick and it might give a rather ugly
surface. Dull gray and not uniform.
If you want an unattractive durable coating, go with epoxy powder
coat. Doesn't have to be bright and shiny and can be as tough as they
The Cycling Curmudgeon