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Ticking Sound Diagnosed

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  • Frank Ruggiero
    Hi Group. Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 1, 2012
      Hi Group.

      Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom bracket.

      After riding the bike for another week, the ticking noise became much worse. So bad that no matter how light the pressure applied to the cranks, I would hear a very loud tick. After more tests on and off the bike, I was convinced the sound was coming from the drive-side pedal.

      So I figured, what the heck. I bought the Park Pedal tool and swapped the pedal with a pedal on my mountain bike. (I know I probably could have used a 15mm wrench, but I do not have one and I was concerned it would not be long enough to give me the torque I needed to get the pedal off. The Cannondale Pedal was actually quite hard to get off.)

      I was relieved when I rode the bike. The sound was gone!

      Would somebody be able to take a look at this image?

      https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u1cpz5t1zfcjn7/Pedal.JPG

      This is the problematic pedal.

      What I think is happening is something with the cage. It seems like maybe it shifts and gets stuck on pushing down, and then when coming up it shifts back into place when the tension is lifted. Its quite loud.

      In your opinion, is there anything I can do to repair this pedal? I cant even see a way to open it up, nor would I even guess at what to correct.

      Moreover, they are quite corroded. Can something this old be salvaged?

      Thanks again for all the info on the bottom bracket. I will be addressing it in the future, so all your info and advice is saved on my computer.

      Frank
    • Paulos, Richard G
      ________________________________________ From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com [Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Frank Ruggiero
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 1, 2012
        ________________________________________
        From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com [Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Frank Ruggiero [frankruggiero@...]
        Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:22 PM
        To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed

        Hi Group.

        Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom bracket.

        After riding the bike for another week, the ticking noise became much worse. So bad that no matter how light the pressure applied to the cranks, I would hear a very loud tick. After more tests on and off the bike, I was convinced the sound was coming from the drive-side pedal.

        So I figured, what the heck. I bought the Park Pedal tool and swapped the pedal with a pedal on my mountain bike. (I know I probably could have used a 15mm wrench, but I do not have one and I was concerned it would not be long enough to give me the torque I needed to get the pedal off. The Cannondale Pedal was actually quite hard to get off.)

        I was relieved when I rode the bike. The sound was gone!

        Would somebody be able to take a look at this image?

        https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u1cpz5t1zfcjn7/Pedal.JPG

        This is the problematic pedal.

        What I think is happening is something with the cage. It seems like maybe it shifts and gets stuck on pushing down, and then when coming up it shifts back into place when the tension is lifted. Its quite loud.

        In your opinion, is there anything I can do to repair this pedal? I cant even see a way to open it up, nor would I even guess at what to correct.

        Moreover, they are quite corroded. Can something this old be salvaged?

        Thanks again for all the info on the bottom bracket. I will be addressing it in the future, so all your info and advice is saved on my computer.

        Frank
      • Paulos, Richard G
        oops. Hit the send too quick. That pedal is junk. Sold for $4/pr when new which was pretty cheap then. No real way to get it back together if you do
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 1, 2012
          oops. Hit the send too quick.

          That pedal is junk. Sold for $4/pr when new which was pretty cheap then. No real way to get it back together if you do dismantle it. One option is to drip oil in the end by the axle. But that won't fix the ground up bearings & cones or the loose cage.

          There are literally thousands of new pedals available. There seems to be a design war going on as to who can come up with the most rad design. It's kinda fun to ebay search on pedals and see what's out there.

          Or if you want traditional, these are excellent:
          http://www.ebay.com/itm/110838442462?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

          The thread size is 9/16" on your Schwinn with the 3-piece cranks. 1-piece cranks take 1/2" threads.

          If you have really big feet, there are all kinds of huge platform pedals with varying sharpness of teeth.

          Shin Burgers look like an old time meat tenderizer but are nothing compared to what Syncros Mental Stainless Steel pedals can do for your surgeons boat payments.
          http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=95056
          I bought a pair and the box they came in was shredded by the time they arrived.

          I bought a pair that look like guitars for a future custom show bike project.

          Or more traditional GT style, copied by everyone in cast aluminum or plastic.

          BTW, lots of new cheap plastic pedals don't even have ball bearings in them. Just plastic sleeves. Ugh, they work terribly, even worst under pressure.

          Grease the threads when you put pedals in.

          Rick

          ________________________________________
          From: Bicycle_Restoration
          Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:22 PM
          To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed

          Hi Group.

          Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom bracket.

          After riding the bike for another week, the ticking noise became much worse. So bad that no matter how light the pressure applied to the cranks, I would hear a very loud tick. After more tests on and off the bike, I was convinced the sound was coming from the drive-side pedal.

          So I figured, what the heck. I bought the Park Pedal tool and swapped the pedal with a pedal on my mountain bike. (I know I probably could have used a 15mm wrench, but I do not have one and I was concerned it would not be long enough to give me the torque I needed to get the pedal off. The Cannondale Pedal was actually quite hard to get off.)

          I was relieved when I rode the bike. The sound was gone!

          Would somebody be able to take a look at this image?

          https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u1cpz5t1zfcjn7/Pedal.JPG

          This is the problematic pedal.

          What I think is happening is something with the cage. It seems like maybe it shifts and gets stuck on pushing down, and then when coming up it shifts back into place when the tension is lifted. Its quite loud.

          In your opinion, is there anything I can do to repair this pedal? I cant even see a way to open it up, nor would I even guess at what to correct.

          Moreover, they are quite corroded. Can something this old be salvaged?

          Thanks again for all the info on the bottom bracket. I will be addressing it in the future, so all your info and advice is saved on my computer.

          Frank
        • Frank Ruggiero
          Thanks Rick. I appreciate your advice. When you say 3 piece crank, how do you come to that conclusion? When I took my cranks out, it was the drive side with
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 1, 2012
            Thanks Rick. I appreciate your advice.

            When you say 3 piece crank, how do you come to that conclusion?

            When I took my cranks out, it was the drive side with chain wheel attached, and then the non drive side. So wouldn't that be 2 pieces?

            How do you have a one piece crank?

            My thread size in the Schwinn and Cannondale are the same, right? I hope. I hope I did not strip any threads. It all went in easy, so I'm assuming they were the same.

            Thanks again.

            Frank



            On Jun 1, 2012, at 9:49 PM, "Paulos, Richard G" <rick-paulos@...> wrote:

            > oops. Hit the send too quick.
            >
            > That pedal is junk. Sold for $4/pr when new which was pretty cheap then. No real way to get it back together if you do dismantle it. One option is to drip oil in the end by the axle. But that won't fix the ground up bearings & cones or the loose cage.
            >
            > There are literally thousands of new pedals available. There seems to be a design war going on as to who can come up with the most rad design. It's kinda fun to ebay search on pedals and see what's out there.
            >
            > Or if you want traditional, these are excellent:
            > http://www.ebay.com/itm/110838442462?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
            >
            > The thread size is 9/16" on your Schwinn with the 3-piece cranks. 1-piece cranks take 1/2" threads.
            >
            > If you have really big feet, there are all kinds of huge platform pedals with varying sharpness of teeth.
            >
            > Shin Burgers look like an old time meat tenderizer but are nothing compared to what Syncros Mental Stainless Steel pedals can do for your surgeons boat payments.
            > http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=95056
            > I bought a pair and the box they came in was shredded by the time they arrived.
            >
            > I bought a pair that look like guitars for a future custom show bike project.
            >
            > Or more traditional GT style, copied by everyone in cast aluminum or plastic.
            >
            > BTW, lots of new cheap plastic pedals don't even have ball bearings in them. Just plastic sleeves. Ugh, they work terribly, even worst under pressure.
            >
            > Grease the threads when you put pedals in.
            >
            > Rick
            >
            > ________________________________________
            > From: Bicycle_Restoration
            > Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:22 PM
            > To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
            > Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed
            >
            > Hi Group.
            >
            > Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom bracket.
            >
            > After riding the bike for another week, the ticking noise became much worse. So bad that no matter how light the pressure applied to the cranks, I would hear a very loud tick. After more tests on and off the bike, I was convinced the sound was coming from the drive-side pedal.
            >
            > So I figured, what the heck. I bought the Park Pedal tool and swapped the pedal with a pedal on my mountain bike. (I know I probably could have used a 15mm wrench, but I do not have one and I was concerned it would not be long enough to give me the torque I needed to get the pedal off. The Cannondale Pedal was actually quite hard to get off.)
            >
            > I was relieved when I rode the bike. The sound was gone!
            >
            > Would somebody be able to take a look at this image?
            >
            > https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u1cpz5t1zfcjn7/Pedal.JPG
            >
            > This is the problematic pedal.
            >
            > What I think is happening is something with the cage. It seems like maybe it shifts and gets stuck on pushing down, and then when coming up it shifts back into place when the tension is lifted. Its quite loud.
            >
            > In your opinion, is there anything I can do to repair this pedal? I cant even see a way to open it up, nor would I even guess at what to correct.
            >
            > Moreover, they are quite corroded. Can something this old be salvaged?
            >
            > Thanks again for all the info on the bottom bracket. I will be addressing it in the future, so all your info and advice is saved on my computer.
            >
            > Frank
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ------------------------------------
            >
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
          • Paulos, Richard G
            1 piece cranks are forged from solid steel as one physical part.
            Message 5 of 6 , Jun 1, 2012
              1 piece cranks are forged from solid steel as one physical part.
              http://www.planetbmx.com/shop/bike-components-parts/cranks/cr-mo-175mm-1-piece-crank/prod_171.html
              Sometimes called Ashtabula (a city in Ohio) from a company there that used to make them. Like Kleenex vs tissue.
              Frames that accommodate 1-piece cranks have a larger unthreaded bottom bracket shell so you can feed the crank thru for installation. Usually found on old balloon tire cruisers, low end 10 speed bikes, kids bikes, bmx, etc.

              3 piece cranks are 2 arms and 1 axle in general even though there are more parts (bearings, nuts, spacers, chainrings, etc)

              Yes, your Schwinn & Cannondale have the same pedal threads. Keep them greased and they will last for thousands of pedal swaps! And the left pedal has reverse threads so they aren't interchangeable from left to right.

              Rick


              ________________________________________
              From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com [Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Frank Ruggiero [frankruggiero@...]
              Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 9:09 PM
              To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed

              Thanks Rick. I appreciate your advice.

              When you say 3 piece crank, how do you come to that conclusion?

              When I took my cranks out, it was the drive side with chain wheel attached, and then the non drive side. So wouldn't that be 2 pieces?

              How do you have a one piece crank?

              My thread size in the Schwinn and Cannondale are the same, right? I hope. I hope I did not strip any threads. It all went in easy, so I'm assuming they were the same.

              Thanks again.

              Frank

              On Jun 1, 2012, at 9:49 PM, "Paulos, Richard G" <rick-paulos@...<mailto:rick-paulos%40uiowa.edu>> wrote:

              > oops. Hit the send too quick.
              >
              > That pedal is junk. Sold for $4/pr when new which was pretty cheap then. No real way to get it back together if you do dismantle it. One option is to drip oil in the end by the axle. But that won't fix the ground up bearings & cones or the loose cage.
              >
              > There are literally thousands of new pedals available. There seems to be a design war going on as to who can come up with the most rad design. It's kinda fun to ebay search on pedals and see what's out there.
              >
              > Or if you want traditional, these are excellent:
              > http://www.ebay.com/itm/110838442462?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
              >
              > The thread size is 9/16" on your Schwinn with the 3-piece cranks. 1-piece cranks take 1/2" threads.
              >
              > If you have really big feet, there are all kinds of huge platform pedals with varying sharpness of teeth.
              >
              > Shin Burgers look like an old time meat tenderizer but are nothing compared to what Syncros Mental Stainless Steel pedals can do for your surgeons boat payments.
              > http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=95056
              > I bought a pair and the box they came in was shredded by the time they arrived.
              >
              > I bought a pair that look like guitars for a future custom show bike project.
              >
              > Or more traditional GT style, copied by everyone in cast aluminum or plastic.
              >
              > BTW, lots of new cheap plastic pedals don't even have ball bearings in them. Just plastic sleeves. Ugh, they work terribly, even worst under pressure.
              >
              > Grease the threads when you put pedals in.
              >
              > Rick
              >
              > ________________________________________
              > From: Bicycle_Restoration
              > Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:22 PM
              > To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Bicycle_Restoration%40yahoogroups.com>
              > Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed
              >
              > Hi Group.
              >
              > Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom bracket.
              >
              > After riding the bike for another week, the ticking noise became much worse. So bad that no matter how light the pressure applied to the cranks, I would hear a very loud tick. After more tests on and off the bike, I was convinced the sound was coming from the drive-side pedal.
              >
              > So I figured, what the heck. I bought the Park Pedal tool and swapped the pedal with a pedal on my mountain bike. (I know I probably could have used a 15mm wrench, but I do not have one and I was concerned it would not be long enough to give me the torque I needed to get the pedal off. The Cannondale Pedal was actually quite hard to get off.)
              >
              > I was relieved when I rode the bike. The sound was gone!
              >
              > Would somebody be able to take a look at this image?
              >
              > https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u1cpz5t1zfcjn7/Pedal.JPG
              >
              > This is the problematic pedal.
              >
              > What I think is happening is something with the cage. It seems like maybe it shifts and gets stuck on pushing down, and then when coming up it shifts back into place when the tension is lifted. Its quite loud.
              >
              > In your opinion, is there anything I can do to repair this pedal? I cant even see a way to open it up, nor would I even guess at what to correct.
              >
              > Moreover, they are quite corroded. Can something this old be salvaged?
              >
              > Thanks again for all the info on the bottom bracket. I will be addressing it in the future, so all your info and advice is saved on my computer.
              >
              > Frank
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ------------------------------------
              >
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >
            • Frank Ruggiero
              I see. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Sent from my iPhone 516-532-2210
              Message 6 of 6 , Jun 1, 2012
                I see. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

                Sent from my iPhone
                516-532-2210

                On Jun 1, 2012, at 10:31 PM, "Paulos, Richard G" <rick-paulos@...> wrote:

                > 1 piece cranks are forged from solid steel as one physical part.
                > http://www.planetbmx.com/shop/bike-components-parts/cranks/cr-mo-175mm-1-piece-crank/prod_171.html
                > Sometimes called Ashtabula (a city in Ohio) from a company there that used to make them. Like Kleenex vs tissue.
                > Frames that accommodate 1-piece cranks have a larger unthreaded bottom bracket shell so you can feed the crank thru for installation. Usually found on old balloon tire cruisers, low end 10 speed bikes, kids bikes, bmx, etc.
                >
                > 3 piece cranks are 2 arms and 1 axle in general even though there are more parts (bearings, nuts, spacers, chainrings, etc)
                >
                > Yes, your Schwinn & Cannondale have the same pedal threads. Keep them greased and they will last for thousands of pedal swaps! And the left pedal has reverse threads so they aren't interchangeable from left to right.
                >
                > Rick
                >
                >
                > ________________________________________
                > From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com [Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Frank Ruggiero [frankruggiero@...]
                > Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 9:09 PM
                > To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
                > Subject: Re: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed
                >
                > Thanks Rick. I appreciate your advice.
                >
                > When you say 3 piece crank, how do you come to that conclusion?
                >
                > When I took my cranks out, it was the drive side with chain wheel attached, and then the non drive side. So wouldn't that be 2 pieces?
                >
                > How do you have a one piece crank?
                >
                > My thread size in the Schwinn and Cannondale are the same, right? I hope. I hope I did not strip any threads. It all went in easy, so I'm assuming they were the same.
                >
                > Thanks again.
                >
                > Frank
                >
                > On Jun 1, 2012, at 9:49 PM, "Paulos, Richard G" <rick-paulos@...<mailto:rick-paulos%40uiowa.edu>> wrote:
                >
                >> oops. Hit the send too quick.
                >>
                >> That pedal is junk. Sold for $4/pr when new which was pretty cheap then. No real way to get it back together if you do dismantle it. One option is to drip oil in the end by the axle. But that won't fix the ground up bearings & cones or the loose cage.
                >>
                >> There are literally thousands of new pedals available. There seems to be a design war going on as to who can come up with the most rad design. It's kinda fun to ebay search on pedals and see what's out there.
                >>
                >> Or if you want traditional, these are excellent:
                >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/110838442462?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
                >>
                >> The thread size is 9/16" on your Schwinn with the 3-piece cranks. 1-piece cranks take 1/2" threads.
                >>
                >> If you have really big feet, there are all kinds of huge platform pedals with varying sharpness of teeth.
                >>
                >> Shin Burgers look like an old time meat tenderizer but are nothing compared to what Syncros Mental Stainless Steel pedals can do for your surgeons boat payments.
                >> http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=95056
                >> I bought a pair and the box they came in was shredded by the time they arrived.
                >>
                >> I bought a pair that look like guitars for a future custom show bike project.
                >>
                >> Or more traditional GT style, copied by everyone in cast aluminum or plastic.
                >>
                >> BTW, lots of new cheap plastic pedals don't even have ball bearings in them. Just plastic sleeves. Ugh, they work terribly, even worst under pressure.
                >>
                >> Grease the threads when you put pedals in.
                >>
                >> Rick
                >>
                >> ________________________________________
                >> From: Bicycle_Restoration
                >> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:22 PM
                >> To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Bicycle_Restoration%40yahoogroups.com>
                >> Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Ticking Sound Diagnosed
                >>
                >> Hi Group.
                >>
                >> Thanks so much for all your help regarding my ticking noise. I know many of you thought the ticking noise might have been related to the bottom bracket.
                >>
                >> After riding the bike for another week, the ticking noise became much worse. So bad that no matter how light the pressure applied to the cranks, I would hear a very loud tick. After more tests on and off the bike, I was convinced the sound was coming from the drive-side pedal.
                >>
                >> So I figured, what the heck. I bought the Park Pedal tool and swapped the pedal with a pedal on my mountain bike. (I know I probably could have used a 15mm wrench, but I do not have one and I was concerned it would not be long enough to give me the torque I needed to get the pedal off. The Cannondale Pedal was actually quite hard to get off.)
                >>
                >> I was relieved when I rode the bike. The sound was gone!
                >>
                >> Would somebody be able to take a look at this image?
                >>
                >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u1cpz5t1zfcjn7/Pedal.JPG
                >>
                >> This is the problematic pedal.
                >>
                >> What I think is happening is something with the cage. It seems like maybe it shifts and gets stuck on pushing down, and then when coming up it shifts back into place when the tension is lifted. Its quite loud.
                >>
                >> In your opinion, is there anything I can do to repair this pedal? I cant even see a way to open it up, nor would I even guess at what to correct.
                >>
                >> Moreover, they are quite corroded. Can something this old be salvaged?
                >>
                >> Thanks again for all the info on the bottom bracket. I will be addressing it in the future, so all your info and advice is saved on my computer.
                >>
                >> Frank
                >>
                >>
                >>
                >>
                >>
                >> ------------------------------------
                >>
                >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                >>
                >>
                >>
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ------------------------------------
                >
                > Yahoo! Groups Links
                >
                >
                >
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