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Re: Modified Warre Hive - Use foundation or not?

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  • Nigel D
    Tom, To answer your question. Both my wife and I are just starting out with beekeeping and we thought it would be interesting to try two different approaches
    Message 1 of 9 , Feb 28, 2011
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      Tom,

      To answer your question. Both my wife and I are just starting out with beekeeping and we thought it would be interesting to try two different approaches (Langs and Warres), from the start and see which one not only works the best for the bees but also for us.

      I did quite a lot of research on top bar hives and was all set to go with them until I found out about our states requirement to have frames that can be removed from the hive for inspection. For this reason I have gone with the modified Warre with frames.

      I will certainly check out your suggestions of the other yahoo group and the web sites you suggest.

      Thanks,

      Nigel.



      --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "tomzboxathotmaildotcom" <tomzbox@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Nigel,
      >
      > I am curious as to why you've decided on Warrés, yet seem not to have very much information about the process of running Warré hives. This is NOT a slam or a put down. It just seems that you must have had some reasons -- some you listed below -- for your decision rather than opting for Langs or TBHs, etc.
      >
      > I would encourage you to seek better answers from a group that is oriented toward Warré hives: <http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/warrebeekeeping/>. Nothing against this group, but already you have had answers from people who readily admitted they were guessing. At least check out the main website for Warré knowledge: <http://warre.biobees.com/>. It will answer the questions you have posed here.
      >
      > The Warré is not just a different-shaped hive, it has a different approach and a somewhat different system of beekeeping. (Top down rather than bottom up, for example.) Your best advice would come from the book written by Abbe Warré. You can order the book or download a free .pdf copy from this site: <http://warre.biobees.com/bfa.htm>
      >
      > Apologies if this is already information you have. (I have three Warrés now and run them differently than my Langs or my kTBHs.)
      >
      > best,
      > Tom Warren
      > Pleasant Hill, OR
      > http://awholenotherbeeblog.blogspot.com/
      >
      > --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "Nigel D" <n_dawson@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Yes, this is the crush and strain method or cut it into chunks.
      > >
      > > I am just starting out with this so I am no expert but the following are some of the reasons I decided to go without foundations. It is more natural for the bees, i.e. in the wild they do not have anyone dictate to them what sized cell they need to use. It helps the bees control Varroa mites as the cells are the exact size the bees need. Your comb is never more than 18 months old, so you are reducing the build up of chemicals, micro's, etc in the hive and in your honey.
      > >
      > > Yes,it does take more time and energy for the bees to build their own comb from scratch but they are building the comb to exactly meet their needs.
      > >
      > > Nigel.
      >
    • stoneridgesheepfarm
      ... Nigel, you inspired me to look into Warre hives and apparently there is a way to extract honey without destroying the comb. Looks like I need to
      Message 2 of 9 , Mar 1, 2011
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        --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "Nigel D" <n_dawson@...> wrote:
        >
        > Yes, this is the crush and strain method or cut it into chunks.
        >
        > Yes,it does take more time and energy for the bees to build their own
        > comb from scratch but they are building the comb to exactly meet
        > their needs.

        Nigel, you inspired me to look into Warre hives and apparently there is a way to extract honey without destroying the comb. Looks like I need to investigate this further. Thanks.

        Wm.
        www.stoneridgefarm.com
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