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Re: Building a top bar hive

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  • Jancie
    I was gonna take photos but seem to have misplaced my camera. But I did get the unit assembled and outside my house and placed where it will be-near where my
    Message 1 of 7 , Oct 6, 2009
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      I was gonna take photos but seem to have misplaced my camera. But I did get the unit assembled and outside my house and placed where it will be-near where my garden and small orchard of fruit trees are. I still have some more 4 to be exact top bars to cut.

      As for entrance placement-don't think it will matter all that much, just as with any hive you want to work from behind the entrance of the hive. What I mean is where ever the entrance is, gee you have 3 other sides to work from. I still want to make a wooden top for it. But at this rate I have all fall, winter and early spring to make a hive top for it. PRobably out of outdoor grade plywood. Right now the hive looks more like an "elevated trough" as I have not cut any side or front entrances to it. Guess the neighbors are wondering just what critters I am planning on watering with it.

      I built my legs 31" high to accomodate my long legs. When my hive went together I kinda wished I would have used 18" long top bars but the 17" will be fine. When I find my camera I will take photos of the unit. Maybe by then it will be finished and awaiting the "house guests".

      Jan
    • roger g
      I built 2 last winter and put three 1 holes along side. I ve had no problem working with the bees. Lot of times with no gear. You can use corks to regulate
      Message 2 of 7 , Oct 7, 2009
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        I built 2 last winter and put three 1" holes along side. I've had no problem working with the bees. Lot of times with no gear. You can use corks to regulate entrances to reduce or make a split.
        I put a package in one and a swarm in the other. They both built up real quikly and swarmed in july. necter flow has been poor so i had to feed to rebuild. I put chick waterers inside to feed sugar water. roger NJ

        --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "terraview2" <elsietee@...> wrote:
        >
        > "Jancie" <janice_hamilton@> wrote:
        > >
        > > I will try to get photos taken and put up tomorrow of the hive I am building.<
        >
        > please do!
        >
        > I noticed that the Biobees TBH plan has the bee entry
        > in the form of holes on the long edge of the hive. I've
        > also seen TBHs with the entry along the bottom of the
        > short edge.
        >
        > For working on the hive it seems like having the entry
        > at the short end while you work from the long sides
        > would be preferable - no bees dodging you while you
        > work?
        >
        > Anyone have any thoughts on placement of entryway on TBHs?
        > Thanks.
        >
        > --
        > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
        > Lucy Chaplin Trumbull
        > elsietee AT foothill DOT net
        > Repotted english person in the Sierra foothills, CA
        > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
        >
      • terraview2
        ... If you built a 48 long TBH and put a follower board in the middle and put a colony in each side, could the two colonies outgrow the box? Is that why your
        Message 3 of 7 , Oct 7, 2009
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          "roger g" <toad08551@...> wrote:
          >
          > I built 2 last winter and put three 1" holes along side.
          > ...You can use corks to regulate entrances to reduce or
          > make a split. I put a package in one and a swarm in the
          > other.

          If you built a 48" long TBH and put a follower board
          in the middle and put a colony in each side, could
          the two colonies outgrow the box? Is that why your
          two colonies swarmed?

          Is a 48" TBH more than big enough for *one* colony,
          but potentially not quite big enough for two? Or can
          you stuff two colonies in but be very conscientious
          about checking for excess honey and removing it to
          allow more space?

          > They
          > both built up real quikly and swarmed in july.

          Is this a prime reason to not stuff two colonies
          in one box, because you lose the flexibility to
          enlarge/reduce the size of the hive?

          > ...necter
          > flow has been poor so i had to feed to rebuild.

          Nectar flow *after* they swarmed? or before?

          > I put chick waterers inside to feed sugar water.

          Did you just put the chick waterers on the mesh
          floor of the hive?


          (pondering possible hive configurations)


          --
          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
          Lucy Chaplin Trumbull
          elsietee AT foothill DOT net
          Repotted english person in the Sierra foothills, CA
          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
        • roger g
          My hives are 40 long and they still had room in hie to expand. I never split the colony they just built quiclly and necter flow was poor after they swarmed.
          Message 4 of 7 , Oct 7, 2009
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            My hives are 40" long and they still had room in hie to expand. I never split the colony they just built quiclly and necter flow was poor after they swarmed. My feeders are set on a wood platform on screen roger NJ

            --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "terraview2" <elsietee@...> wrote:
            >
            > "roger g" <toad08551@> wrote:
            > >
            > > I built 2 last winter and put three 1" holes along side.
            > > ...You can use corks to regulate entrances to reduce or
            > > make a split. I put a package in one and a swarm in the
            > > other.
            >
            > If you built a 48" long TBH and put a follower board
            > in the middle and put a colony in each side, could
            > the two colonies outgrow the box? Is that why your
            > two colonies swarmed?
            >
            > Is a 48" TBH more than big enough for *one* colony,
            > but potentially not quite big enough for two? Or can
            > you stuff two colonies in but be very conscientious
            > about checking for excess honey and removing it to
            > allow more space?
            >
            > > They
            > > both built up real quikly and swarmed in july.
            >
            > Is this a prime reason to not stuff two colonies
            > in one box, because you lose the flexibility to
            > enlarge/reduce the size of the hive?
            >
            > > ...necter
            > > flow has been poor so i had to feed to rebuild.
            >
            > Nectar flow *after* they swarmed? or before?
            >
            > > I put chick waterers inside to feed sugar water.
            >
            > Did you just put the chick waterers on the mesh
            > floor of the hive?
            >
            >
            > (pondering possible hive configurations)
            >
            >
            > --
            > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
            > Lucy Chaplin Trumbull
            > elsietee AT foothill DOT net
            > Repotted english person in the Sierra foothills, CA
            > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
            >
          • toad08551
            i do have couple pics in my album
            Message 5 of 7 , Oct 7, 2009
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              i do have couple pics in my album

              --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "roger g" <toad08551@...> wrote:
              >
              > My hives are 40" long and they still had room in hie to expand. I never split the colony they just built quiclly and necter flow was poor after they swarmed. My feeders are set on a wood platform on screen roger NJ
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