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Re: Question about a gennaker no pole

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  • PhilC
    There really is no problem gybing acruising spin with no pole once you get the hang of it. You can rig the sheets for outside gybe which I prefer but it
    Message 1 of 14 , Feb 19, 2013
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      There really is no problem gybing acruising spin with no pole once you get the hang of it.
      You can rig the sheets for outside gybe which I prefer but it increases the chances of losing a sheet under hull. Inside gybe is less "smoothly reliable" but sheets can't fall in water.

      To gybe, turn down and ease at same time. When nearly DDW you want the clew to be flying just fwd of the forestay. Grab the 'new' sheet and pull quickly while completing your turn quickly. Boom done.

      Spin flies well off the forestay even when flown off the bow, not an issue.

      I DO NOT use shackles on spinnakers. Knots are simple, lightweight, and don't snag on things, including your noggin... I don't use shackles on jib clews either...

      --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Morf" <pmorf@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "martin29549" <martin.wedepohl@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Wow, Martin,....thanx for all the advice, voice of experience, etc. Probably not more than I need but more than I can figure out all at once...today in mid-Feb. But, I can see that there's a way to do the deal. How to figure out wat to do about the bow sprit problem...well, I can see that you got around that. I'll hard copy your reply/suggestions/experience/advice and put it into the log for future reference. Immediate job for Jun/July is to get the jib furling system up and running. So, spinnaker project comes after that. By the way, what have you decided to do with your genoa. My guess is that you leave it in the sail bag now. I sail out of Racine WI on Lk. Mich....BUT, I would be willing to drive several? 100 miles if necessary to see your spinnaker deal first hand. Where are you?
      > Thnx again for all the ifo. Paul, skipper of "Fresh Gail" out of Racine Wi.
      > > My friendly sail loft cut the symmetric as an asymmetric and then put it in an ATN sock.
      > >
      > > I attached a block to the bottom of the outside of the forestay for the tack of the spinnaker. I then ran line from the tack of the spinnaker through the block and then back to the cockpit. This gives me the ability to pull the tack right to the bow of the boat or let it fly about 12 ft off the bow. This allows me to run the spinnaker without a bowsprit ... not the best, but easier than adding a bowsprit. I have seen some people use a spinnaker pole lashed to the deck extended forward of the bow as a bowsprit, but there was a lot of lashing to keep the pole down.
      > >
      > > I then attached 2 sheet's (60ft long - 2 x boat length) to the clew of the spinnaker. These are run outside of everything (stay's, forestay, etc), then back to turning blocks at the back of the boat and onto winches. Basically the spinnaker is rigged as a large jib with the lines running outside.
      > > Wow
      > > To raise the spinnaker: Turn the boat onto a broad reach. Pull the spinnaker up in the sock using the spinnaker halyard. Set the tack of the spinnaker to about 6ft off the bow (I have it marked on my tack line) so it is loose. Leave both the sheets loose. Pull the spinnaker sock all the way to the top. Then set the spinnaker appropriately for the wind conditions with the tack and the active sheet.
      > >
      > > To gybe the spinnaker: Turn the boat closer to a run, but don't collapse the spinnaker. Pull in the main as close to the centre as possible. You might need to let the spinnaker fly a little higher by releasing the tack if it is too close to the bow. Let the active sheet go as you gybe through the wind. The spinnaker "should" go forward of the forestay and allow it to be pulled over with the other sheet. Let the main out as soon as possible after gybing through the wind. As long as you have a "bit" of wind the spinnaker will go outside of everything over to the new side. Set the tack and new active sheet.
      > >
      > > To lower the spinnaker: Turn the boat almost onto a run and the spinnaker will collapse. Pull down the sock while letting out the tack line. It can now be lowered and packed away.
      > >
      > > I can do this fairly well by myself as long as there is "enough" but not "too much" wind. On my boat I can sail the spinnaker from a little higer than a beam reach to a broad reach. The spinnaker collapses on a run and the boat heels too much as I go onto a close haul. If I have crew this year I'm going to try flying the jib at the same time as the spinnaker on a beam reach to get some "more" speed.
      > >
      > > Things I have learned through painful experience.
      > >
      > > 1) Use snap shackles for quick disconnect of the tack and clew.
      > > 2) Don't use a stopper knot on the sheets as you sometimes need to let them run out.
      > > 3) When starting to fly the spinnaker make sure the tack and sheets are loose so the spinnaker doesn't fill suddenly as you fly it.
      > > 4) Be ready to suddenly run to the bow to help the spinnaker round the forestay in light wind.
      > > 5) Watch out for the sheet lines in the water when gybing ... they are long and have a tendency to get wrapped around the keel and prop if you are not careful.
      > > 6) Don't be afraid to turn onto a run, let the sheets or tack out to collapse the spinnaker if you are getting into trouble with stronger winds.
      > >
      > > Hope that helps ... Martin
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Morf" wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Hmmm??!!...Tell me about reconfiguring the spinnaker into an asymmetrical configuration. How did you get along without some sort of extension/bowsprit so that the whole thing coule clear the forestay? I've got an unused spinaker from a thistle that I sure would like to use on my 270. Waitin' to hear back...Paul, skipper of the "Fresh Gail" out of Racine WI.
      > >
      >
    • Stephen Ronning
      get ahold of MEPAULG at msn.  he s an old school owner of the buccaneer 295...phil c know s him...or at least know s of him....his boat s name is RUSH he
      Message 2 of 14 , Feb 24, 2013
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        get ahold of MEPAULG at msn. 
        he's an old school owner of the buccaneer 295...phil c know's him...or at least know's of him....his boat's name is  RUSH he moores in Everett. 295 fastest 30' footer ever made if you can trim a sail. won the frisco to hawaii race the first year it was made i believe. take care
      • brock.hecla
        Do you have any idea what the prop specifications are from the factory on the 295? I am converting to electric drive with a genset and I need to determine the
        Message 3 of 14 , Feb 26, 2013
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          Do you have any idea what the prop specifications are from the factory on the 295? I am converting to electric drive with a genset and I need to determine the proper gear reduction from the electric motor to get the best RPM for full hull speed. I really don;t feel like throwing this MD7A back in the boat now that its out. ;)

          --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "martin29549" <martin.wedepohl@...> wrote:
          >
          > I have a 1977 Buc 295 that I actively sail and race just of the coast of Vancouver, BC. It is in fairly good shape and I have learned a lot just by performing all the maintenance and upkeep on the boat myself. It's rigged with a furling jib and an asymmetric spinnaker in a sock (I sail and race solo most of the time).
          >
          > I am about to do my yearly engine maintenance on it before the racing season starts the beginning of March.
          >
          > Glad to find someone else with a 295 on the forum.
          >
          > Martin
          >
          >
          >
          > --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "brock.hecla" wrote:
          > >
          > > Hi Everyone,
          > > I am curious if anyone else has currently ,or in the past owned a buc 295? I picked it up late last year in the san juan islands and it is currently about a half mile from its birth factory in Arlington, WA being rebuilt by me. I am always looking for good information and anything helps ... pdf manuals & documentation, general advice, trouble spots, etc ... I am in the middle of a complete rebuild right now and any little bit helps. This is my first time posting here but it looks like there are a lot of people that love their buccaneers :) I am glad to be part of the group! Have a great day :)
          > >
          >
        • martin29549
          Brock, Not sure if mine is actually factory standard, but this is what I have on mine. 2 Blade Folding Prop Left Hand 14 Diameter 12 Pitch 3/4 Shaft Hope
          Message 4 of 14 , Feb 27, 2013
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            Brock,

            Not sure if mine is actually factory standard, but this is what I have on mine.

            2 Blade Folding Prop
            Left Hand
            14" Diameter
            12" Pitch
            3/4" Shaft

            Hope that helps

            Martin

            --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "brock.hecla" <bhecla@...> wrote:
            >
            > Do you have any idea what the prop specifications are from the factory on the 295? I am converting to electric drive with a genset and I need to determine the proper gear reduction from the electric motor to get the best RPM for full hull speed. I really don;t feel like throwing this MD7A back in the boat now that its out. ;)
            >
          • Andres Espino
            Close to what I have on my 240  I have 11 pitch on a 15hp OB in a motor well that tilts up.  i know 15 is a bit overpowered for my 240 (factory says 10) but
            Message 5 of 14 , Feb 27, 2013
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              Close to what I have on my 240  I have 11 pitch on a 15hp OB in a motor well that tilts up.  i know 15 is a bit overpowered for my 240 (factory says 10) but it is what came with it.

              Andrew



              From: martin29549 <martin.wedepohl@...>
              To: BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:14 AM
              Subject: [BaylinerBuccaneerGroup] Re: Question about a 295's

               
              Brock,

              Not sure if mine is actually factory standard, but this is what I have on mine.

              2 Blade Folding Prop
              Left Hand
              14" Diameter
              12" Pitch
              3/4" Shaft

              Hope that helps

              Martin

              --- In BaylinerBuccaneerGroup@yahoogroups.com, "brock.hecla" wrote:
              >
              > Do you have any idea what the prop specifications are from the factory on the 295? I am converting to electric drive with a genset and I need to determine the proper gear reduction from the electric motor to get the best RPM for full hull speed. I really don;t feel like throwing this MD7A back in the boat now that its out. ;)
              >



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