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Gear Test: Seychelle Filter, Take 2

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  • AA6J
    I m sorry to see that the gear test group is going to fold, but I can understand why. While sharing our reports in this public forum is enlightening, I was
    Message 1 of 1 , Oct 17 7:02 PM
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      I'm sorry to see that the gear test group is going to fold, but I can understand why. While sharing our reports in this public forum is enlightening, I was hesitant as it could be embarassing to the manufacturer. Still, I have been, and will continue to be, candid in my comments (probably my training as an auditor!).

      Wally Emory very generously sent me a new filter a couple weeks ago to replace the one I broke the nipple on. I give him and his company an A+ for customer service.

      I haven't had a chance to test it in the field yet because of a death in the family, but will do so this weekend and will post my comments next week.

      There are a couple of changes in the replacement versus the first filter I received.

      The original instructions claimed 2-phase filtration, "Silverator" pre-filter and an ionic adsorption micro filter. The instructions for the replacement, now printed on two sides, adds a third phase, a hydrophobic inter-filter which is an "Additional custom designed insert to remove suspended contaminants." Whether this is a change only in printed material or a change in the filter design I don't know. However, where the first filter had a plastic button holding the filter media together (whose edges could be lifted), the replacement is sealed at the end by some kind of epoxy or something. It looks more assuring to see that end closed off.

      There are now instructions on the use of the white rubber primer bulb, along with an illustration of it's use. The "Prior to initial use" instructions now say to use this white bulb with your water fauceet to SLOWLY flush the filter 1 minute before using, and to store for future back flush use. A nice addition considering everyone's comments.

      However, the installation instructions are printed before these flushing instructions and still don't say how to install the filter media in the filter (although, yes, it should be obvious). This is, as before, covered later under "filter replacement," and is missed when reading the instructions from top to bottom.

      I still would like to see a a big arrow molded into the filter body to show water flow. For those of us with bad eyes this would be easier to see than the small "in"and "out".

      Use of the filter is unchanged - easy to prime and easy to draw water by byte tube or by gravity. It still fails the dye test used by some filters and proven an invalid test in this group. However, I'd still like some way to test the integrity of the o-ring.

      Assembly of the filter media in the filter was a bit easier because of the silicone lube on the o-ring. You still need to be careful not to cross thread it.

      Comments I received from Wally:
      " I have screwed together many inline filters, I think handling it by the media, when dry, damp, or wet care must be taken not to collapse it of over tighten it. Also it is ok to touch the silver filter as it is bacteriostatic and is what prevents growth on the filter. A pre-filter is your choice, a gravity feed system is pretty gentile and backflushing really helps prolong the life of your filter."

      What's next for me? This weekend I'll be canoeing and plan to filter the lake water. I'll look at how the filter affects taste, and how it removes all the "floaties" in the water. I'll post the results next week if the group is still alive.

      Thanks, Wally, for your patience and faith in us, and thanks to Jerry for his work in setting up this group. I've learned a lot, not just about equipment, but about how different users see things.

      Bill "AsABat" Jeffrey

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