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Re: [Authentic_SCA] Warp weighted loomed fabric - substitute?

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  • Folo Watkins
    ... Aidan Campbell is an excellent source if money is no object: http://www.aidan-campbell.co.uk/textiles.htm He is also very knowledgeable, very anal about
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 21, 2011
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      >I'm trying to get together my Finn garb, and while I pretty much have
      >the pattern sorted out and the links
      >(<http://www.katajahovi.org/SatuHovi/muinaispuvunValmistaminen.html>http://www.katajahovi.org/SatuHovi/muinaispuvunValmistaminen.html
      ><http://www.katajahovi.org/SatuHovi/muinaispuvunValmistaminen.html> ) to
      >the tablet woven selvage faking and coils, etc., I'm still on the prowl
      >for a nice woolen fabric that can stand in for a warp-weighted loomed
      >fabric.

      Aidan Campbell is an excellent source if money is no object:
      http://www.aidan-campbell.co.uk/textiles.htm He is also very
      knowledgeable, very anal about getting fabrics just right and has
      been very helpful in the past.

      Cheers, Folo
      www.micelfolcland.org
    • jewett_christine
      That website just gave me a heart attack - I m in lurve! :P However, he doesn t seem to have warp-weighted loom fabric. While I m quite willing to count
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 21, 2011
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        That website just gave me a heart attack - I'm in lurve! :P

        However, he doesn't seem to have warp-weighted loom fabric. While I'm quite willing to count pennies for while, I'm a bit wary of the cost of doling out for setting it up. I'd prefer a pavillion to be the most expensive textile item I have. :P

        Gwnnil Pedersdotter

        > Aidan Campbell is an excellent source if money is no object:
        > http://www.aidan-campbell.co.uk/textiles.htm He is also very
        > knowledgeable, very anal about getting fabrics just right and has
        > been very helpful in the past.
        >
        > Cheers, Folo
        > www.micelfolcland.org
        >
      • Folo Watkins
        ... Did you contact him? He could prolly guide you better than I could. My wifew bought some woven wool from him, and it was almost breath-taking whether woven
        Message 3 of 6 , Nov 21, 2011
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          >That website just gave me a heart attack - I'm in lurve! :P
          >
          >However, he doesn't seem to have warp-weighted loom fabric. While
          >I'm quite willing to count pennies for while, I'm a bit wary of the
          >cost of doling out for setting it up. I'd prefer a pavillion to be
          >the most expensive textile item I have. :P

          Did you contact him? He could prolly guide you better than I could.
          My wifew bought some woven wool from him, and it was almost
          breath-taking whether woven on wwl or not!

          Cheers, Folo
        • Quokkaqueen
          I m still on the prowl ... Are you wanting to fake the selvedges yourself, so you are just looking for fabric of the right
          Message 4 of 6 , Nov 23, 2011
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            <<snip>>
            I'm still on the prowl
            > for a nice woolen fabric that can stand in for a warp-weighted loomed
            > fabric.
            <<snip>>

            Are you wanting to fake the selvedges yourself, so you are just looking for fabric of the right threadcount/weave/colour, or are you looking to purchase fabric that has been woven on a warp-weighted loom?

            I've previously mentioned Pirkko-Liisa Lehtosahlo-Hilander's "Ancient Finnish Costumes" for information in English about Viking-Age Finnish dress. Page 8 is very general, but it says:

            "The fabrics woven in Finland during the Iron Age were not complicated. In addition to plain weave, different twills were woven. Plain four-shaft fabrics were the most popular, but in the youngest finds there are also chevron and broken twills and three-shaft twills. Sometimes the pattern was formed by using threads spun in differing directions.
            ....
            In Finnish twills the thread counts are mostly about 10 × 10 threads per centimetre. There are much rougher twills, too, but they are rare. The finest fabrics can have more than 20 warp threads, but then the weft is usually looser. Some stuffs in the Karelian finds with nearly 40 warp threads may possibly be imported. There are however bands from the Viking Age made of very fine threads, so the great thread density is not necessarily a mark of foreign origin.
            Woollen tabbies are found more seldom, but every now and then they occur, and mostly in under garments. They have usually eight to ten threads in both directions, but finer weaves are not uncommon. Linen, hemp and nettle appear only in plain weave. Thread counts in these vary very much. The loosest hemp weaves have less than ten threads per centimetre in both directions, the finest linen found more than twenty."

            So you are probably looking for a 2/2 (4-shaft) woollen twill for most of your layers - depending on how closely you are basing it on one find, or another, then means to figure out the finer details (like thread density, how tightly the threads were spun etc.) you will probably need to refer to the grave reports.

            Hope that helps?

            Asfridhr
          • gianottadallafiora
            ... I looked at your fabric examples, and the texture and drape reminded me of crepe wool twill:
            Message 5 of 6 , Nov 29, 2011
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              --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "jewett_christine" <jewett_christine@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > Greetings!
              >
              > I'm trying to get together my Finn garb, and while I pretty much have
              > the pattern sorted out and the links
              > (http://www.katajahovi.org/SatuHovi/muinaispuvunValmistaminen.html
              > <http://www.katajahovi.org/SatuHovi/muinaispuvunValmistaminen.html> ) to
              > the tablet woven selvage faking and coils, etc., I'm still on the prowl
              > for a nice woolen fabric that can stand in for a warp-weighted loomed
              > fabric.

              I looked at your fabric examples, and the texture and drape reminded me of crepe wool twill:

              http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com/p/TT349-C1/1-YD-PC-Yellow-Crepe-Wool-Suiting


              http://www.denverfabrics.com/p/TT349/Yellow-Crepe-Wool-Suiting

              http://www.ebay.com/itm/DESIGNER-FABRIC-FRENCH-BUTTERCREAM-WOOL-SOFT-TWILL-4YDS-/160571401070?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item2562cd236e#ht_1410wt_825

              It seems darn difficult to find, though.


              YIS,
              Adelisa Salernitana
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