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The Zen of Hand Sewing, was Re: 1490-1510 Italian "Empire waist" gown

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  • LJonthebay
    ... Same here. Handsewing can come to events with me and be done while socializing with friends, or I can work in front of the TV, while the great, nasty buzzy
    Message 1 of 11 , Oct 13, 2011
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      --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Diane Sawyer Dooley
      > I handsewed my last apron dress, including all the (not really historically accurate, but it looked fabulous) embellishment, and now I don't ever want to sew on my machine again.  Ever.  (I will, but under strenuous protest.)  I found it very relaxing.

      Same here. Handsewing can come to events with me and be done while socializing with friends, or I can work in front of the TV, while the great, nasty buzzy machine produces white noise that gets on my nerves. I hand sew everything.

      Saionji no Hana
      West
    • lilinah@earthlink.net
      ... SNIP ... SNIP One place to ask for assistance is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming Best wishes! Urtatim (that s err-tah-TEEM)
      Message 2 of 11 , Oct 13, 2011
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        jewett_christine wrote:
        > So I have my heart set on making a gown from this era, specifically the type with
        > the waist sitting just under the bust, with the wide neckline that rests on the
        > tips of the shoulders and the v-ed back.
        SNIP
        > I am saavy to the parts - chemise, underdress, overdress, tie-on sleeves, etc. -
        > but I'm a bit baffled as to where to begin with constructing the torso of this
        > gown style.
        SNIP

        One place to ask for assistance is
        http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming

        Best wishes!
        Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
      • Chris Laning
        I d definitely ask some more experienced people for tips, through a mailing list or online group or whatever you can find. Definitely do a muslin. One reason
        Message 3 of 11 , Oct 13, 2011
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          I'd definitely ask some more experienced people for tips, through a mailing list or online group or whatever you can find. Definitely do a muslin.

          One reason to ask for tips from the experienced is that, with a wide neckline _and_ V back, you might encounter some "engineering" problems in keeping the thing from widening and slipping off your shoulders, or from going crooked when you wear it. (English Renaissance clothing mostly avoids this problem because the gowns with wide and low _front_ necklines generally _don't_ also have low backs, so there is something to hold everything together and keep it from expanding or slipping.)

          I know there are workarounds, probably some of them period and some of them not, such as careful tailoring and fitting in certain areas, reinforcements in certain areas, hidden interior bits and so forth, but asking people who have tried this will probably get you the best tactics.

          I've had the same slippage problem with a wide-necked surcote (late 1200s) and I remember recently reading something about how to stabilize it and keep it from slipping. I remember thinking "Oh neat, now I can actually wear the thing," but unfortunately I don't remember where or what it was.

          (Mind like a lint trap: lots of interesting fluff, no idea where most of it came from...)

          ____________________________________________________________
          0 Chris Laning
          | <claning@...>
          + Davis, California
          http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
          ____________________________________________________________
        • jewett_christine
          Thanks everyone for the feedback - I m looking into EVERYTHING you all have said! (Fortunately I have 25 yds of muslin that just happens to be sitting in my
          Message 4 of 11 , Oct 16, 2011
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            Thanks everyone for the feedback - I'm looking into EVERYTHING you all have said! (Fortunately I have 25 yds of muslin that just happens to be sitting in my garage for the muslin mock-ups... :P)

            Christine
            aka Gunnil Peders Dotter
          • gianottadallafiora
            ... If you want to cheat a bit, I used this pattern a long time ago to make a similar gown (V d front of the bodice, but not in the back):
            Message 5 of 11 , Oct 17, 2011
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              --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "jewett_christine" <dystopic@...> wrote:
              >
              > So I have my heart set on making a gown from this era, specifically the type with the waist sitting just under the bust, with the wide neckline that rests on the tips of the shoulders and the v-ed back. See: <a href="http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/artgallery1.htm">Realm of Venus</a> for examples in paintings.
              >

              If you want to cheat a bit, I used this pattern a long time ago to make a similar gown (V'd front of the bodice, but not in the back):

              http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp-041.htm

              Specifically, I used variation V. It looked pretty good, and for me, I find if I have pieces to play with, making a muslin is a lot less intimidating, since I am hopeless at draping and pattern-drafting anything more complicated than a tunic from scratch.

              YIS,
              Adelisa de Salernum
            • lilinah@earthlink.net
              Another source of potential use is Reconstructing History. They have 5 patterns for Florentine women s gowns covering about 3/4 of a century. RH511 may be what
              Message 6 of 11 , Oct 18, 2011
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                Another source of potential use is Reconstructing History. They have 5 patterns for Florentine women's gowns covering about 3/4 of a century. RH511 may be what you're interested in.
                http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=florentine

                Disclaimer
                I have not used these patterns and cannot comment on historical accuracy, fit, instructions, etc. Some RH patterns appear excellent and some could be a lot better, but that is true of any patterns for historically based clothing.

                Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
              • Susanne Hibbert
                Thank you for the post. I will forward to a friend of mine who would love info and group to join that works on only this period of Italian garb. THLady Susana
                Message 7 of 11 , Oct 18, 2011
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                  Thank you for the post. I will forward to a friend of mine who would love info and group to join that works on only this period of Italian garb.
                  THLady Susana



                  ________________________________
                  From: "lilinah@..." <lilinah@...>
                  To: Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:55 AM
                  Subject: Re: [Authentic_SCA] 1490-1510 Italian "Empire waist" gown


                   
                  jewett_christine wrote:
                  > So I have my heart set on making a gown from this era, specifically the type with
                  > the waist sitting just under the bust, with the wide neckline that rests on the
                  > tips of the shoulders and the v-ed back.
                  SNIP
                  > I am saavy to the parts - chemise, underdress, overdress, tie-on sleeves, etc. -
                  > but I'm a bit baffled as to where to begin with constructing the torso of this
                  > gown style.
                  SNIP

                  One place to ask for assistance is
                  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming

                  Best wishes!
                  Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)



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