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Analysis of a 16th Century Italian Gown

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  • Jennifer
    Evening, all! I have just finished a large commission for a client and would like to analyze the parts that went well and the parts that could have gone better
    Message 1 of 6 , Dec 10, 2010
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      Evening, all!

      I have just finished a large commission for a client and would like to analyze the parts that went well and the parts that could have gone better for your input.

      The criteria for the gown was that it needed to be relatively light, with ease of movement since the client is a dancer and musician. She wanted to be able to dress herself and she wanted something from the mid 16th century but with slim sleeves, a soft body and no farthingale. We narrowed it down to Italian and mainly used a 1560 Maroni and the 1560 Crimson Pisa dress for a starting place. (I have posted the painting and a photo of the Pisa dress in a folder called Analysis of a 16th Century Italian Gown.)

      Starting on the inside, I used Drea Lead's smock generator and made a linen chemise using 3.2 oz. linen from fabric.com. It is good fabric, but I find it a bit too sheer and tending to pull out of square. (I posted a picture of the chemise in the folder.)

      I edged the neck with a handkerchief hem. Because the neckline of the gown is so close to the shoulders, I felt the chemise slipped off her shoulders too much. She did not want the chemise to show and this may be the problem because so many of them did show in this time period, hence being a smaller circumference neckline.

      I used pearl buttons on the cuffs with ribbon loops. They were not authentic for the time period but I knew she would not want to deal with ties.

      All seams were French seams, which can work on gores and gussets if planned carefully.

      So my first questions are 1) Do you have a favorite place to purchase good chemise linen? What kind do you like best?
      2) Is there a way to deal with a chemise neckline that slips down too much?
      3) Do you have any other wrist closure suggestions that are easy to use.

      Thanks for all your help! I will post about the partlet next.

      Jennifer
    • Michael Hurley
      ... I ve not heard of this. It sounds quite useful. Is this an application? A website? A technique you learned in a class? Is this something which can be
      Message 2 of 6 , Dec 13, 2010
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        On Dec 10, 2010, at 8:20 PM, Jennifer wrote:
        > I used Drea Lead's smock generator


        I've not heard of this. It sounds quite useful. Is this an
        application? A website? A technique you learned in a class? Is this
        something which can be shared with the others of us who perhaps have
        not heard of it? Or am I the only one who hadn't? Thanks!
        --
        Auf wiedersehen!
        Michael
        ______________________________________________________
        "..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."

        "Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in sort
        of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand naked
        women screaming and throwing little pickles at you?"

        "..No."

        "Why am I the only person that has that dream?"

        -Real Genius
      • JL Badgley
        ... I hadn t either, but I found this: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/ Is that what is being referred to? -Ii [Non-text portions of this message
        Message 3 of 6 , Dec 13, 2010
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          On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 10:09 AM, Michael Hurley <mephit@...> wrote:

          > On Dec 10, 2010, at 8:20 PM, Jennifer wrote:
          > > I used Drea Lead's smock generator
          >
          > I've not heard of this. It sounds quite useful. Is this an
          > application? A website? A technique you learned in a class? Is this
          > something which can be shared with the others of us who perhaps have
          > not heard of it? Or am I the only one who hadn't? Thanks!
          >

          I hadn't either, but I found this:

          http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/

          Is that what is being referred to?

          -Ii


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Catherine Olanich Raymond
          ... It s much easier to give you the URL and let you explore for yourself, so here it is: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/ -- Cathy Raymond
          Message 4 of 6 , Dec 13, 2010
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            On 12/13/2010 11:09 PM, Michael Hurley wrote:
            > On Dec 10, 2010, at 8:20 PM, Jennifer wrote:
            >> I used Drea Lead's smock generator

            It's much easier to give you the URL and let you explore for yourself,
            so here it is:

            http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/


            --
            Cathy Raymond
            cathy@...

            "I'm a little bit disappointed that cat plus Internet doesn't equal
            YouTube."— Ben "Yahtzee" Croshaw
          • Michael Hurley
            ... Thanks muchly to both yourself and JL Badgley for pointing me to it. Excellent! -- Auf wiedersehen! Michael
            Message 5 of 6 , Dec 13, 2010
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              On Dec 13, 2010, at 9:11 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
              > On 12/13/2010 11:09 PM, Michael Hurley wrote:
              >> On Dec 10, 2010, at 8:20 PM, Jennifer wrote:
              >>> I used Drea Lead's smock generator
              >
              > It's much easier to give you the URL and let you explore for yourself,
              > so here it is:
              >
              > http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/


              Thanks muchly to both yourself and JL Badgley for pointing me to it.
              Excellent!
              --
              Auf wiedersehen!
              Michael
              ______________________________________________________
              "..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."

              "Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in sort
              of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand naked
              women screaming and throwing little pickles at you?"

              "..No."

              "Why am I the only person that has that dream?"

              -Real Genius
            • Jennifer
              ... I apologize for not posting the site but others on this group got it exactly right. Drea has put up a pattern generator for smocks
              Message 6 of 6 , Dec 20, 2010
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                --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hurley <mephit@...> wrote:
                >
                > On Dec 10, 2010, at 8:20 PM, Jennifer wrote:
                > > I used Drea Lead's smock generator
                >
                >
                > I've not heard of this. It sounds quite useful. Is this an
                > application? A website? A technique you learned in a class? Is this
                > something which can be shared with the others of us who perhaps have
                > not heard of it? Or am I the only one who hadn't? Thanks!
                > --
                > Auf wiedersehen!
                > Michael
                > ______________________________________________________


                I apologize for not posting the site but others on this group got it exactly right. Drea has put up a pattern generator for smocks (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/), for a set of bodies (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/index.html) and a corded farthingale (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordpett.html) among other things. Her site (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/) is, in my humble opinion, one of the best places to start when studying Elizabethan costuming.

                Anybody have any thoughts on my questions in my original post? I have many more pictures and questions to post but wanted to start small. Thanks!

                Jennifer
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