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Re: Patching garments?

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  • xina007eu
    Hi Asfridhr, the tunic of St Francis of Assisi that can be seen in the basilica at Assisi has been patched multiple times, and I think different stitches were
    Message 1 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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      Hi Asfridhr,

      the tunic of St Francis of Assisi that can be seen in the basilica at Assisi has been patched multiple times, and I think different stitches were used. I remember reading that some of the pieces seem to have come from the tunic of St Clare, and that these patches are sewn on with a special stitch, but I can't find the reference at the moment.

      With a multiple-layer garment (e.g. an Elizabethan doublet) you will only have to stitch the patch on the outside if the inner layers are intact. The doublet of Don Garzia de' Medici (a young man from one of the wealthiest families in Europe) has a patch on one elbow, which indicates that patching and repairing garments was not restricted to the lower classes.

      Best regards,

      Christina



      --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Quokkaqueen" <quokkaqueen@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi All,
      >
      > It's reached that stage in my garb wardrobe, where I need to start repairing things, mostly patching holes and tears in seams. I *know* that there are garments out there with patches (the Y-piece on the Bocksten hood springs to mind), but what I'm having trouble is finding information on *how* garments were patched.
      >
      > I'm guessing that patches were sewn to the outside of the garment, but what happened on the inside? Were the edges of the repair hemmed facing inside the garment, or outside towards the patch? Were any special patching stitches used?
      >
      > Any help would be appreciated,
      > ~Asfridhr
      >
    • Heather Rose Jones
      ... You re probably thinking of the article on those garments in: Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild. 1988. Textile Conservation and Research. Schriften der
      Message 2 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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        On Oct 28, 2010, at 3:48 AM, xina007eu wrote:

        > Hi Asfridhr,
        >
        > the tunic of St Francis of Assisi that can be seen in the basilica at Assisi has been patched multiple times, and I think different stitches were used. I remember reading that some of the pieces seem to have come from the tunic of St Clare, and that these patches are sewn on with a special stitch, but I can't find the reference at the moment

        You're probably thinking of the article on those garments in:

        Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild. 1988. Textile Conservation and Research. Schriften der Abegg-Stiftung, Bern.

        Tangwystyl
      • CLEY
        Isn t there a story that Francis wished his robe to be made of patches, as a token of humility? Or am I confused with someone else? Arlys
        Message 3 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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          Isn't there a story that Francis wished his robe to be made of patches,
          as a token of humility?

          Or am I confused with someone else?

          Arlys
        • LJonthebay
          ... Buddhist priests wear a patchwork mantle called a kesa (Japanese), jiasha (Chinese) or kasaya (Sanskrit). Originally pieced from dirty rags, they
          Message 4 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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            --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, CLEY <cley56@...> wrote:
            >
            > Isn't there a story that Francis wished his robe to be made of patches,
            > as a token of humility?
            >
            > Or am I confused with someone else?

            Buddhist priests wear a patchwork mantle called a kesa (Japanese), jiasha (Chinese) or kasaya (Sanskrit). Originally pieced from dirty rags, they eventually became far more opulent as donors gifted temples with silks belonging to deceased relatives. At least one description I've read seems to indicate that the act of constructing a kesa from many small pieces was considered a devotional exercise.

            Ironically, when I started looking for images to post, I discovered that the Kyoto National Museum currently has an exhibition on kesa:
            http://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/tokubetsu/101009/tokubetsu.html
            If you scroll down, the kesa shown at the bottom of the article is pieced from silk and gold brocade.

            (Pieced garments also became fashionable in 16th century Japan. A number of surviving robes from that period are either pieced or decorated to look as if they are pieced from alternating blocks of fabric. There's also at least one example that bears an uncanny resemblance to a "crazy quilt.")

            Saionji no Hana
            West Kingdom
          • Quokkaqueen
            My first response, upon reading ... I found a mention of an item patched on the inside-- one of the hoods from Viking Age Dublin. E. Wincott
            Message 5 of 17 , Nov 5, 2010
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              <<snip>>
              My first response, upon reading
              > Asfridhr's speculation was to say, "no, on the inside!" because that is the
              > most common method I learned for darning/patching frayed fabric.
              <<snip>>

              I found a mention of an item patched on the inside-- one of the hoods from Viking Age Dublin.
              E. Wincott Heckett. 2003. "Viking Age Headcoverings from Dublin" (Dublin: Royal Irish Academy")
              pp. 44, 46:
              "In wool cap DHC32 (Pl. VII, Fig. 52) a large patch has been sewn to the inside of the right-hand part. The sides of the patch have been turned under and it has been slip-stitched to the inside of the cap. If the patch had been put on to over a hole, placing it like this on the inside would leave the rough edges of the tear exposed to view on the outside, which is contrary to usual sewing practice. Placing the patch as it is means that the smooth surface would have been against the wearer's ear. This may suggest that the patch was put on to provide extra protection and warmth, or to strengthen a threadbare rather than a torn area. It may also be that it was unimportant that ragged edges were left on the outside. This would be true if the cap was worn under another headcovering or indeed as a nightcap."

              There are other patches in there, too, but I thought this particular one on the inside might be interesting as a possible exception to the rule. :)

              ~Asfridhr
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