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RE: [Authentic_SCA] Re: Patching garments?

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  • Scott
    Surely we have some experts on patching on this list. Heather Rose Jones or Robin of Netherton should be able to answer our questions, Are they on line? My
    Message 1 of 17 , Oct 24, 2010
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      Surely we have some experts on patching on this list. Heather Rose Jones or
      Robin of Netherton should be able to answer our questions,

      Are they on line? My favorite clothing article is a no go-Hewather Rose
      Jones' presentation at Kalamazoo "Getting into women's underwear."

      I had expected far more males to show interest: it got mo=inbe roight
      away;p however,
      I not only have know the author for decades but also am a charter member of
      the SSS (Soiled Senior Citizens).

      I have a plethora of white triskles on one garment that are looking worn and
      grungy and my seamstress wife has the talent but not the back

      stamina to even look at them; therefore, I shall be doing the stitches. My
      last hand-stitched garment was a seersucker shirt in 1957.

      It lasted me five years.



      Colm Dubh
    • LJonthebay
      ... Please see message 58509: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Authentic_SCA/message/58509 Saionji no Hana West Kingdom
      Message 2 of 17 , Oct 24, 2010
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        --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <Scat@...> wrote:
        >
        > Surely we have some experts on patching on this list. Heather Rose Jones or
        > Robin of Netherton should be able to answer our questions,
        >
        > Are they on line?

        Please see message 58509:

        http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Authentic_SCA/message/58509

        Saionji no Hana
        West Kingdom
      • Heather Rose Jones
        ... I would also like to note, I am not an expert on patching -- I m an expert at remembering the citations for odd bits of information I ve run across over
        Message 3 of 17 , Oct 25, 2010
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          On Oct 24, 2010, at 10:57 PM, LJonthebay wrote:

          >
          >
          > --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <Scat@...> wrote:
          >>
          >> Surely we have some experts on patching on this list. Heather Rose Jones or
          >> Robin of Netherton should be able to answer our questions,
          >>
          >> Are they on line?
          >
          > Please see message 58509:
          >
          > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Authentic_SCA/message/58509

          I would also like to note, I am not an "expert on patching" -- I'm an expert at remembering the citations for odd bits of information I've run across over the years.

          Tangwystyl
        • Marianne Perdomo
          Thanks to all for a very interesting conversation on a topic I hadn t thought of :) Cheers! Marianne [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          Message 4 of 17 , Oct 25, 2010
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            Thanks to all for a very interesting conversation on a topic I hadn't
            thought of :)

            Cheers!

            Marianne


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • George A. Trosper
            ... Beggars are well known--very reasonably--for exaggerating and emphasizing their bodily deformities and lacks, so I wouldn t be surprised if the very
            Message 5 of 17 , Oct 27, 2010
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              On 10/23/2010 4:56 PM, Karen wrote:
              > There's also the patches in a garment worn by the beggar in the story of St.
              > Martin, on an altarpiece painted in 1496, now at the Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum
              > in Austria:
              > http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7003321.JPG
              >
              >
              > Karen Larsdatter
              > www.larsdatter.com
              Beggars are well known--very reasonably--for exaggerating and
              emphasizing their bodily deformities and lacks, so I wouldn't be
              surprised if the very obvious patching here were part of a similar pattern.

              --George/Gerard
            • xina007eu
              Hi Asfridhr, the tunic of St Francis of Assisi that can be seen in the basilica at Assisi has been patched multiple times, and I think different stitches were
              Message 6 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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                Hi Asfridhr,

                the tunic of St Francis of Assisi that can be seen in the basilica at Assisi has been patched multiple times, and I think different stitches were used. I remember reading that some of the pieces seem to have come from the tunic of St Clare, and that these patches are sewn on with a special stitch, but I can't find the reference at the moment.

                With a multiple-layer garment (e.g. an Elizabethan doublet) you will only have to stitch the patch on the outside if the inner layers are intact. The doublet of Don Garzia de' Medici (a young man from one of the wealthiest families in Europe) has a patch on one elbow, which indicates that patching and repairing garments was not restricted to the lower classes.

                Best regards,

                Christina



                --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Quokkaqueen" <quokkaqueen@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hi All,
                >
                > It's reached that stage in my garb wardrobe, where I need to start repairing things, mostly patching holes and tears in seams. I *know* that there are garments out there with patches (the Y-piece on the Bocksten hood springs to mind), but what I'm having trouble is finding information on *how* garments were patched.
                >
                > I'm guessing that patches were sewn to the outside of the garment, but what happened on the inside? Were the edges of the repair hemmed facing inside the garment, or outside towards the patch? Were any special patching stitches used?
                >
                > Any help would be appreciated,
                > ~Asfridhr
                >
              • Heather Rose Jones
                ... You re probably thinking of the article on those garments in: Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild. 1988. Textile Conservation and Research. Schriften der
                Message 7 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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                  On Oct 28, 2010, at 3:48 AM, xina007eu wrote:

                  > Hi Asfridhr,
                  >
                  > the tunic of St Francis of Assisi that can be seen in the basilica at Assisi has been patched multiple times, and I think different stitches were used. I remember reading that some of the pieces seem to have come from the tunic of St Clare, and that these patches are sewn on with a special stitch, but I can't find the reference at the moment

                  You're probably thinking of the article on those garments in:

                  Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild. 1988. Textile Conservation and Research. Schriften der Abegg-Stiftung, Bern.

                  Tangwystyl
                • CLEY
                  Isn t there a story that Francis wished his robe to be made of patches, as a token of humility? Or am I confused with someone else? Arlys
                  Message 8 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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                    Isn't there a story that Francis wished his robe to be made of patches,
                    as a token of humility?

                    Or am I confused with someone else?

                    Arlys
                  • LJonthebay
                    ... Buddhist priests wear a patchwork mantle called a kesa (Japanese), jiasha (Chinese) or kasaya (Sanskrit). Originally pieced from dirty rags, they
                    Message 9 of 17 , Oct 28, 2010
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                      --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, CLEY <cley56@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Isn't there a story that Francis wished his robe to be made of patches,
                      > as a token of humility?
                      >
                      > Or am I confused with someone else?

                      Buddhist priests wear a patchwork mantle called a kesa (Japanese), jiasha (Chinese) or kasaya (Sanskrit). Originally pieced from dirty rags, they eventually became far more opulent as donors gifted temples with silks belonging to deceased relatives. At least one description I've read seems to indicate that the act of constructing a kesa from many small pieces was considered a devotional exercise.

                      Ironically, when I started looking for images to post, I discovered that the Kyoto National Museum currently has an exhibition on kesa:
                      http://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/tokubetsu/101009/tokubetsu.html
                      If you scroll down, the kesa shown at the bottom of the article is pieced from silk and gold brocade.

                      (Pieced garments also became fashionable in 16th century Japan. A number of surviving robes from that period are either pieced or decorated to look as if they are pieced from alternating blocks of fabric. There's also at least one example that bears an uncanny resemblance to a "crazy quilt.")

                      Saionji no Hana
                      West Kingdom
                    • Quokkaqueen
                      My first response, upon reading ... I found a mention of an item patched on the inside-- one of the hoods from Viking Age Dublin. E. Wincott
                      Message 10 of 17 , Nov 5, 2010
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                        <<snip>>
                        My first response, upon reading
                        > Asfridhr's speculation was to say, "no, on the inside!" because that is the
                        > most common method I learned for darning/patching frayed fabric.
                        <<snip>>

                        I found a mention of an item patched on the inside-- one of the hoods from Viking Age Dublin.
                        E. Wincott Heckett. 2003. "Viking Age Headcoverings from Dublin" (Dublin: Royal Irish Academy")
                        pp. 44, 46:
                        "In wool cap DHC32 (Pl. VII, Fig. 52) a large patch has been sewn to the inside of the right-hand part. The sides of the patch have been turned under and it has been slip-stitched to the inside of the cap. If the patch had been put on to over a hole, placing it like this on the inside would leave the rough edges of the tear exposed to view on the outside, which is contrary to usual sewing practice. Placing the patch as it is means that the smooth surface would have been against the wearer's ear. This may suggest that the patch was put on to provide extra protection and warmth, or to strengthen a threadbare rather than a torn area. It may also be that it was unimportant that ragged edges were left on the outside. This would be true if the cap was worn under another headcovering or indeed as a nightcap."

                        There are other patches in there, too, but I thought this particular one on the inside might be interesting as a possible exception to the rule. :)

                        ~Asfridhr
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