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Re: Splits in Skirts

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  • Karen
    ... I m not sure I ve seen earlier medieval women s riding outfits, but in some medieval illustrations of women riding astride (rather than
    Message 1 of 11 , Feb 9, 2010
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      Faye wrote:

      > Another costuming friend of mine says that front splits where used
      > in riding outfits, but I still haven't seen any examples in period art.

      I'm not sure I've seen earlier medieval women's "riding outfits," but in some medieval illustrations of women riding astride (rather than aside/sidesaddle), they're wearing an overgarment we call a "gardecorps" (which may have been called a "herygoud" in Middle English); see http://larsdatter.com/women-horseback.htm%c2%a0for images of women wearing this garment, as well as other outfits worn while riding.

      Many examples of a man's gardecorps (see http://larsdatter.com/gardecorps.htm%c2%a0for examples) show a slit up the front and (presumably) the back; I think it is possible that a woman's gardecorps might have had the same feature, though I'm not seeing any direct visual evidence to indicate that.

      (It seems likely that the women are wearing gowns, kirtles, and smocks underneath; the gardecorps would have covered all of these garments up, but I don't believe these garments would have had any sort of center-front/center-back slit.  I don't think of this as a "riding outfit" per se -- not in the same way that we'd see an 18th or 19th century lady wear a "riding habit" -- but it's an overgarment that *some* early 14th century women wore over their clothing while riding horses.)

      Karen
    • curious_workmanship
      ... I ve still got a lot to learn when it comes to authenticity, but it occurred to me that perhaps what looks like a split in a skirt exposing an underskirt
      Message 2 of 11 , Feb 10, 2010
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        --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@...> wrote:

        > For the 13th through 15th centuries? The only thing I can think of are some
        > of the Unicorn Tapistries, (though some of those apparently show a slit
        > starting at the hip, not in the center, and some believe that those gowns may
        > have been "fantasy", albeit fantasy devised in period):
        >
        > http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18368_u1l2.htm
        >
        > --
        >
        > Cathy Raymond <cathy@...>


        I've still got a lot to learn when it comes to authenticity, but it occurred to me that perhaps what looks like a split in a skirt exposing an underskirt might actually be a gusset of a contrasting fabric? I know that adding a gusset is the basic way to increase fullness at the hip in a tunic-type garment, and that particoloring was cool and that fabric was expensive, so perhaps this would be a more period way to achieve that split-skirt look? Now I'm curious about it.

        Obrigada,
        Lianor
      • Antonia di Benedetto Calvo
        ... AFAIK, there is no evidence for contrasting-coloured gussets in period (although you do see it occasionally in SCA-wear). -- Antonia di Benedetto Calvo ...
        Message 3 of 11 , Feb 10, 2010
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          curious_workmanship wrote:
          > I've still got a lot to learn when it comes to authenticity, but it occurred to me that perhaps what looks like a split in a skirt exposing an underskirt might actually be a gusset of a contrasting fabric? I know that adding a gusset is the basic way to increase fullness at the hip in a tunic-type garment, and that particoloring was cool and that fabric was expensive, so perhaps this would be a more period way to achieve that split-skirt look? Now I'm curious about it.
          >

          AFAIK, there is no evidence for contrasting-coloured gussets in period
          (although you do see it occasionally in SCA-wear).


          --
          Antonia di Benedetto Calvo

          -----------------------------
          Habeo metrum - musicamque,
          hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
          -Georgeus Gershwinus
          -----------------------------
        • Quokkaqueen
          ... Depending on how dodgy your skills are at dyeing fabric, you may accidentally wind up with gores a different shade than the tunic body.
          Message 4 of 11 , Feb 11, 2010
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            <<snip>>
            > AFAIK, there is no evidence for contrasting-coloured gussets in period
            > (although you do see it occasionally in SCA-wear).
            <<snip>>

            Depending on how dodgy your skills are at dyeing fabric, you may accidentally wind up with gores a different shade than the tunic body.
            (Or, how well the dyes were preserved over time, which is what I suspect is what gives the yellow-green Guddal tunic more yellowish sleeves and a gore -- about halfway down here -- http://home.broadpark.no/~jantaule/div%20om%20middelalderen/diverse_om_middelalderen.htm )

            For a clearer example of uneven dyeing giving slightly different shades of colour, see a modern reconstruction of a tunic here:
            http://www.vesteraalen.info/gavlen_skjoldehamndrakten_2_09.JPG
            from http://www.vesteraalen.info/reportasje_andoy_skjoldeforedrag_09.htm


            But that's different to having _contrasting_ gores. The only examples I can think of are within the SCA period (pre-1600), but aren't European (they're 16th century Korean).

            ~Asfridhr
            (Who has one dress in particular that is fading very unevenly, and is now a weird combination of lavender and blue-grey.)
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