- Greetings to the list,
I have a question that I'm sure has been asked before but the archive
search keeps giving server errors. I was looking through my fabric
bin and found 6 yards of fine wale corduroy that I originally planned
to make a cloak out of. I made a wool cloak so now I'm trying to find
something to use the corduroy for.
Is there an appropriate use for corduroy in period at all? My persona
is 1530-1550 English but I'm open to all options at this point.
Thanks for your help.
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MESSAGE ORDER REVERSED AND EDITED:
From: oisswafford <oisswafford@...>
> Is there an appropriate use for corduroy in period at all? My personaI used a no wale corduroy for a tunic for my lord husband. He is an archer & wears a turtle neck shirt undeneath in the cooler weather. He really looked great in it.
> is 1530-1550 English but I'm open to all options at this point.
Hugs & Kisses,
- Most sources state that corduroy was first made in Manchester, England
in the (late?) 17th c. It was a popular "working class" fiber in the
18th c. So, too late for SCA purposes.
Uncut corduroy is, basically a velvet/een. (They have a lot of it a
Joann's and I've gotten it for a little over $2 a yard before there.
Great stuff if you just want the look without spending a lot more on
authentic fibers.) I've heard the argument that, since uncut corduroy
is (like) velvet, that corduroy is really just cut velvet but, as far
as I have seen, there aren't any cut velvets that are only done in
stripes in any pre-17th c portraits/drawings/wills/ect.
- On Nov 11, 2008, at 6:54 AM, jubileel_insaneone wrote:
> Most sources state that corduroy was first made in Manchester, EnglandI don't know this of my own knowledge, but the costume director for
> in the (late?) 17th c. It was a popular "working class" fiber in the
> 18th c. So, too late for SCA purposes.
my high-authenticity Renaissance Faire guild allowed us to wear no-
wale corduroy (but not the striped kind) as a reasonable
approximation of "fustian" although the fiber content is not the
same. Unfortunately it's sometimes rather hard to find the no-wale
sort, especially in nice colors, as a lot of it seems to go from the
mills straight to upholstery companies, bypassing fabric stores
As I understand it, while cotton fabric wasn't completely unknown in
our period, cotton seems to have been much more common as loose fiber
stuffing over most of Europe than as thread or cloth. With short,
very slippery fibers, cotton is more difficult to spin reliably than
either linen or wool, and reliable, fine, strong cotton thread wasn't
widely available until (IIRC) the late 18th or early 19th century.
It's not until then, for instance, that you start seeing a lot of
lace knitting in cotton.
P.S. Useless knowledge bit: If I'm recalling correctly (I'd have to
search the archives of H-costume where this has been discussed
extensively), corduroy and velveteen are both made with extra filling
threads (weft) forming the pile, while in true velvets it's warp
threads that make the pile.
O (Dame) Christian de Holacombe, OL - Shire of Windy Meads
+ Kingdom of the West - Chris Laning <claning@...>
http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
- as far
> as I have seen, there aren't any cut velvets that are only done inI know of one that's late 16th. It's labeled "uncut velvet," but it looks as
> stripes in any pre-17th c portraits/drawings/wills/ect.
though it has horizontal ribs:
Cathy Raymond <cathy@...>
"The heresy of one age becomes the orthodoxy of the next."
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- --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Catherine Olanich Raymond
> as far
> > as I have seen, there aren't any cut velvets that are only done in
> > stripes in any pre-17th c portraits/drawings/wills/ect.
> I know of one that's late 16th. It's labeled "uncut velvet," but it
> though it has horizontal ribs:If I recall correctly on this point, the difference between velvet and
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@...>
> "The heresy of one age becomes the orthodoxy of the next."
> --Helen Keller
velveteen is the direction of the ribbing before cutting: velveteen
makes the pile by looping the weft threads, in which case the ribs
should have been running parallel to the selvedges, and velvet makes
the pile by looping the warp threads, with the ribs formed
horizontally before cutting.
I'm less sure of my recall on the source for this next point, but I
*believe* it was mentioned and illustrated in the MOL "Clothing and
Textiles" volume. (If not, I apologize for not being able to cite the
source.) There was, earlier than the sixteenth century, a pile fabric
with horizontal ribbing stair-stepped in three levels:
low-medium-high-medium-low-medium-high-medium-low, and so on. I am
completely at a loss, though, as to whether the "low" level was
low-pile, or no-pile.
Not much help, I know, and not corduroy, either, but it might be worth
It does seem to me, though, that if you're using a very fine wale
corduroy, it would be less obviously modern fabric if you can use it
with the wale running from side to side instead of up-and-down as we
use it today. (I know that affects how it behaves, too.)
Yseult the Gentle
- The transplated Flemish and Dutch protestant 'Walloons" in Norwich in the second half of the sixteenth century were responsible for introducing to England a lot of innovative fabrics, collectively called at the time the "newe draperies." these incuded the introduction or refinement of fabrics such as bayes (baize), and Mockadoe ( a heavy kind of napped "velvet" made with a linen warp and piled worsted -combed, not carded, wool- warp, trimmed and stamped or burnt with design). I think that if you were looking for a period verion of Corduroy, that it might be found in the "newe draperies..." although many of these cloth types were not meant for clothing... mockadoe, from what I can tell, went mostly to furniture covering, for example...
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