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Re: back! with shirt questions

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  • sue_clemenger
    ... list. ... stopped ... Spain. ... Martin. ... into ... http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_J ohn_Retable.jpg ... the ...
    Message 1 of 2 , Aug 10, 2008
      --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Marianne Perdomo Machin
      <marianne@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hello!
      >
      > Long ago I had time to read and sometimes even participate on this
      list.
      > Then I got too busy for it, changed to web-only and of course
      stopped
      > reading much. However, my frustration on trying to improve certain
      > things brings me back :)
      >
      > So... I'll reintroduce myself. I'm Marianne Perdomo and live in
      Spain.
      > My persona's a 1470-1480 castillian woman, by the name of Leonor
      Martin.
      > I like dancing, cooking period southern european food and dabble
      into
      > embroidery and other stuff from time to time.
      >
      > And the question that brought me back is... I want to make myself a
      > second pleated linen shirt, ca 1480. Basically I want to get as
      > authentic as possible to the shirts being worn here:
      >
      http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_J
      ohn_Retable.jpg
      >
      > Before I used flat-felled seams and a "cut my cote" pattern, as
      shown here:
      > http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/camiciahowto.htm
      > The pleated neck is sewn into a thin strip of the same material,
      the
      > sleeve ends hang loose, as that's expected in this style.
      >
      > So before I cut my precious linen and spend hours sewing and
      pleating...
      > I'd like to know if there's anything faulty here or that could be
      improved.
      > Any tips, hints or even wild ideas will be much appreciated! :)
      >
      > Cheers!
      >
      >
      > Marianne / Leonor

      Hi, Marianne!
      If you're working on portraying a late 15th century Castilian woman,
      I can think of a couple of things that would warn me off recommending
      this particular version of a shift.
      For one, the original shift itself dates from the 17th century.
      For another, the original shift is Italian, and the emphasis of the
      Realm of Venus is on Italian clothing as well.
      What difference should this make? Well, mostly, for me, it'd be a
      matter of using an undergarment intended for one type of silhouette
      underneath an outfit with a totally different silhouette. Kinda like
      using 1950s bullet-bras and girdles underneath a 1920s flapper dress.
      If you look at the clothing that the women are wearing in your wiki
      image, notice that they've got tight bodices, fairly tight, narrow
      sleeves, and squarish necklines. If you used a really full camicia
      under such a dress, you'd not only find the the camicia was showing
      at the neckline in ways that you didn't intend, but you'd have all
      kinds of extra fabric wadded up in your sleeves and your bodice.
      What I'd recommend, instead, is a shift based more along tee-tunic
      lines, such as this one:
      http://www.elizabethancostume.net/
      Sorry that I can't give you a direct link to the article, as she
      seems to have imbedded them in some way that I don't understand, but
      if you click on "Elizabethan Underpinnings," and then scroll down
      to "16th century Smocks and Chemises," and click on that, the first
      one, the "low-necked smock," is the one I'm talking about. They're
      very easy to make, and much more comfortable under closely-fitting
      late 15th/early 16th century clothing (think Spanish, or early
      Tudor). When I made mine, I used the "smock pattern generator" that
      Drea has on that site (you can find a link at the bottom of
      the "Smocks and Chemises" article.
      Hope this wasn't too wordy!
      --Maire, certified late period costuming geek ;o)
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