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Re: [Authentic_SCA] Other threads for handsewing

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  • Lilinah
    ... My understanding of European clothing is limited, since I focus on Near and Middle Eastern, but my limited understanding is that linen thread was used most
    Message 1 of 19 , Jan 4, 2007
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      >While we are on the topic of thread, I am starting my first compleatly
      >handsewn project soon. My mom bought me some 100% linen fabric and
      >some wool fabric. I am planning on making a cotehardie out of the
      >wool, lined in the linen. What are the best threads to use on each of
      >those? And where are some good places to get it? Thanks!
      >
      >Ghita

      My understanding of European clothing is limited, since I focus on
      Near and Middle Eastern, but my limited understanding is that linen
      thread was used most (although not all) of the time, to sew wool and
      linen. Yes, the colors won't match.

      Linen was rarely dyed in Europe, as i understand, although there are
      a few instances of dyed linen. In Medieval Muslim Egypt linen was
      generally white (or off-white) and it was also dyed with indigo with
      some frequency. Linen doesn't take most dyes well, but it seems quite
      happy with indigo :-) Generally linen sewing thread is white (or
      off-white).

      In Medieval Muslim Egypt, sometimes wool was used to sew wool. There
      are a number of surviving wool tunics, although information about the
      sewing thread is not always given. However, one book i have does
      mention such things
      -- The orange wool tunic (dyed with madder root) was sewn with lime
      green wool thread in basic running stitch.
      -- The navy wool tunic (dyed with indigo) was sewn with madder orange
      wool thread in basic running stitch.

      Tangwystyl/Heather Rose Jones has a great series of web pages on
      "period" garment sewing
      http://www.heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/index.html

      --
      Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
      the persona formerly known as Anahita
    • Sarah Michele Ford
      ... I second Urtatim s suggestion of linen thread. I ve been doing most of my handsewing with it for several years now - I got a spool of 20/2 wetspun
      Message 2 of 19 , Jan 4, 2007
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        On 1/4/07, Lilinah <lilinah@...> wrote:
        > >While we are on the topic of thread, I am starting my first compleatly
        > >handsewn project soon. My mom bought me some 100% linen fabric and
        > >some wool fabric. I am planning on making a cotehardie out of the
        > >wool, lined in the linen. What are the best threads to use on each of
        > >those? And where are some good places to get it? Thanks!

        I second Urtatim's suggestion of linen thread. I've been doing most
        of my handsewing with it for several years now - I got a spool of 20/2
        wetspun halfbleach linen from Webs (http://www.yarn.com - see
        http://yarn.com/webs/0/0/0/1-0-1008/0/8/ for their wetspun linens) and
        have barely made a dent in it despite handsewing a number of garments
        with it. Next time I'll probably get the 40/2 - the 20/2 is too heavy
        for finer things like veils (right now I use a cotton thread for
        those). My only caution is to be sure to wax it (I use beeswax) and
        use short pieces, because it likes to tie itself in knots. :^)

        (You'll probably notice that the linen at Webs seems pricey, but I did
        the math when I was first making the move to linen thread and it comes
        out much cheaper per yard when you buy it in huge quantities - so I
        just sew everything with white. Sometimes it shows a bit, sometimes
        it doesn't, and I don't sweat it too much.)

        Alianor de R.
      • Maggie Forest
        ... I d actually suggest going to 60/2. For everything but the heaviest wools, that s a good medium. If you buy bulk, that might be worth while - you can sew
        Message 3 of 19 , Jan 4, 2007
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          >I second Urtatim's suggestion of linen thread. I've been doing most
          >of my handsewing with it for several years now - I got a spool of 20/2
          >wetspun halfbleach linen from Webs (http://www.yarn.com - see
          >http://yarn.com/webs/0/0/0/1-0-1008/0/8/ for their wetspun linens) and
          >have barely made a dent in it despite handsewing a number of garments
          >with it. Next time I'll probably get the 40/2 - the 20/2 is too heavy
          >for finer things like veils (right now I use a cotton thread for
          >those). My only caution is to be sure to wax it (I use beeswax) and
          >use short pieces, because it likes to tie itself in knots. :^)

          I'd actually suggest going to 60/2. For everything but the heaviest
          wools, that's a good medium. If you buy bulk, that might be worth
          while - you can sew linens and wools with it.

          /maggie
        • asackville@juno.com
          Another good place to find linen thread is from www.lacemakerusa.com. I ve been buying from Tracy for a number of years and she has several different brabds of
          Message 4 of 19 , Jan 4, 2007
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            Another good place to find linen thread is from www.lacemakerusa.com.
            I've been buying from Tracy for a number of years and she has several
            different brabds of linen. I use the Bockens linen for my lacemaking.
            Her prices are reasonable and she ships very quickly.

            Fionnuala
          • Cynthia J Ley
            If you live in the Portland (OR) metro area, B Sharp Fabrics in north Portland carries a nice selection of linen thread in different colors (totally yummy),
            Message 5 of 19 , Jan 5, 2007
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              If you live in the Portland (OR) metro area, B Sharp Fabrics in north
              Portland carries a nice selection of linen thread in different colors
              (totally yummy), and Pastiche is a good place to hunt too. Prices are
              very reasonable.

              Arlys
            • bronwynmgn@aol.com
              Message 6 of 19 , Jan 5, 2007
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                <<While we are on the topic of thread, I am starting my first compleatly
                handsewn project soon. My mom bought me some 100% linen fabric and
                some wool fabric. I am planning on making a cotehardie out of the
                wool, lined in the linen. What are the best threads to use on each of
                those? And where are some good places to get it? Thanks!>>

                My personal choice is to use linen thread on linen fabric and silk thread on
                wool. I find both at either specialty embroidery shops or from merchants at
                SCA events. My preferred brands are Londonderry Linen for the linen and
                Splendor, I think, for the silk. We've had good luck with those over many
                years.

                Brangwayna Morgan



                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Lilinah
                And Needle in a Haystack, mentioned in the Black Silk for Blackwork thread, also has spools of linen thread in colors, if one decides to go for that. I ve
                Message 7 of 19 , Jan 5, 2007
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                  And Needle in a Haystack, mentioned in the Black Silk for Blackwork
                  thread, also has spools of linen thread in colors, if one decides to
                  go for that. I've bought various shades of blues that simulate indigo
                  for my blue linen garb.
                  http://www.needlestack.com

                  Additionally, I got white and "natural" linen at Lacis. At the moment
                  i can't recall the size, but it's as fine as sewing thread.

                  --
                  Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
                  the persona formerly known as Anahita
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