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Re: "Tudor Tailor" doublet questions

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  • juliana-edmund
    ... oh, I forgot. Both front edges, the collar, the cuffs & sleeve
    Message 1 of 4 , Jun 24, 2006
      -----
      Here is what a friend with expertise in this area says:

      > > > The Tudor Tailor seems to have excellent research on women's garments,
      > > > but their reconstruction of men's doublets is not perfectly accurate.
      > > > However, adapting the pattern given there to the historic method it
      > > > would be done this way:
      > > >
      > > > quilt/pad-stitch the wadding to the lining. Make up the lining
      > > > completely separately.
      > > >
      > > > pad-stitch the canvas stiffening to the interlining (here called the
      > > > calico; historically it is usually coarse linen or fustian). Also pad
      > > > stitch onto the calico the "springy wool" that usually goes over the
      > > > shoulders and upper back (this is shown as "padding" on the back piece
      > > > on page 99, but the front part of it is not shown. This padding is not
      > > > made of wadding and it is not worked on the lining, it is a soft woven
      > > > wool worked on the interlining.) The smooth side of the interlining
      > > > faces the top fabric, the stiffening bits and other wool padding face
      > > > toward the lining.
      > > >
      > > > One of the important things missing from the pattern is that the
      > > > lining is semi-detached underneath the buttonhole side -- check out
      > > > Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to see how this is done, as well
      > > > as to see the placement and shape of the "springy wool" that goes over
      > > > the shoulders.
      > > >
      > > > -Jehan

      oh, I forgot. Both front edges, the collar, the cuffs & sleeve
      > opening, and the skirts have facings, usually silk. You could probably
      > use linen for a lower class doublet.
      >
      > -jehan

      > > >
      > > > > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
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