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Re: [Authentic_SCA] 14th c women's mantles/cloaks--No Hood?

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  • Tiffany Brown
    I m going to ramble about 12thC western norman fashions for a moment, in the hope of expanding horizons: Almost all the 12th C artwork of women shows some kind
    Message 1 of 7 , Mar 20, 2006
      I'm going to ramble about 12thC western norman fashions for a moment,
      in the hope of expanding horizons:
      Almost all the 12th C artwork of women shows some kind of draped
      square or half circle mantle. Most of the men are wearing similar
      fashions, except when shepherds are depicted, a group for whom the
      stereotype seems to be to draw them wearing hoods, and hooded cloaks.
      (there are a very few other men in hooded cloaks, but not any that
      could be considered rich)
      One could assume only the poorest men wore hoods or hooded cloaks,
      based on this evidence. Until one refers to literature references, and
      finds that noble men and women commonly wore hoods and hooded cloaks
      when travelling. (as well as them being worn by lower classes) These
      were practical garments to keep the warmth in and the wind and rain
      out. Some of the descriptions clearly let us know that the hood was
      part of the same garment as the cloak, but there was also a word for a
      hood with only a very small cape.
      Thus garments like hoods can elude one form of depiction - because the
      half circle mantle was the mark of being nobility, so to draw them
      otherwise would be to confuse the audience about who they were. The
      travelling garments would be practical - warm wool, and probably less
      embroidery, while mantles were decorated until they were almost too
      heavy to lift.

      Now I suspect the 14th C is rather different, but looking at pictures
      of peasants might give you a clue about if such a garment existed, and
      literary references might tell you if it was worn by upper classes.

      Also don't forget how warm a veil is (it slides off a lot less than an
      attached hood), and that you could make a veil out of a fine wool for
      cold nights. I've also seen classic representations of people
      wrapping what looks like a large blanket around themselves, including
      a fold over their head. I'm doubt anyone was actually wearing those
      still in the 14thC, although they might still draw the virgin mary
      that way.
      Annother way to keep warm is to make a tunic or two from wool - At
      camping events I slip on an extra layer of woolen clothing at sunset,
      and stay toasty warm, not having to worry about winds blowing my cloak
      open, or the cloak edges falling in the fire. Remember fur lined was
      a popular period thing, so I suspect this was happening more than most
      people estimate (sheepskin, fake fur, or even just a layer of lining
      are also period - not everyone could afford fur)
      personally I plan to have a pretty half circle mantle with lots of
      embroidery for indoor events, and warm wool garments including a
      hooded cloak to keep the rain off for camping events.

      Teffania

      On 3/17/06, LL Rice <apolloniavoss@...> wrote:
      > Hello:
      >
      > I've been wearing the same McCall's pattern hooded cloak for ten years
      > now. It's time to make new ones: one for my soon-to-be Byzantine garb
      > and one for my 14th century
      >
      > Also, if one is making a silk or linen lined wool mantle (I get COLD so
      > if I'm wearing my mantle I want the lining) what embellishments would
      > work? Beading and embroidery comes to mind.
      >
      > ~Apollonia Voss
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