Re: [Authentic_SCA] 14th c women's mantles/cloaks--No Hood?
- I'm going to ramble about 12thC western norman fashions for a moment,
in the hope of expanding horizons:
Almost all the 12th C artwork of women shows some kind of draped
square or half circle mantle. Most of the men are wearing similar
fashions, except when shepherds are depicted, a group for whom the
stereotype seems to be to draw them wearing hoods, and hooded cloaks.
(there are a very few other men in hooded cloaks, but not any that
could be considered rich)
One could assume only the poorest men wore hoods or hooded cloaks,
based on this evidence. Until one refers to literature references, and
finds that noble men and women commonly wore hoods and hooded cloaks
when travelling. (as well as them being worn by lower classes) These
were practical garments to keep the warmth in and the wind and rain
out. Some of the descriptions clearly let us know that the hood was
part of the same garment as the cloak, but there was also a word for a
hood with only a very small cape.
Thus garments like hoods can elude one form of depiction - because the
half circle mantle was the mark of being nobility, so to draw them
otherwise would be to confuse the audience about who they were. The
travelling garments would be practical - warm wool, and probably less
embroidery, while mantles were decorated until they were almost too
heavy to lift.
Now I suspect the 14th C is rather different, but looking at pictures
of peasants might give you a clue about if such a garment existed, and
literary references might tell you if it was worn by upper classes.
Also don't forget how warm a veil is (it slides off a lot less than an
attached hood), and that you could make a veil out of a fine wool for
cold nights. I've also seen classic representations of people
wrapping what looks like a large blanket around themselves, including
a fold over their head. I'm doubt anyone was actually wearing those
still in the 14thC, although they might still draw the virgin mary
Annother way to keep warm is to make a tunic or two from wool - At
camping events I slip on an extra layer of woolen clothing at sunset,
and stay toasty warm, not having to worry about winds blowing my cloak
open, or the cloak edges falling in the fire. Remember fur lined was
a popular period thing, so I suspect this was happening more than most
people estimate (sheepskin, fake fur, or even just a layer of lining
are also period - not everyone could afford fur)
personally I plan to have a pretty half circle mantle with lots of
embroidery for indoor events, and warm wool garments including a
hooded cloak to keep the rain off for camping events.
On 3/17/06, LL Rice <apolloniavoss@...> wrote:
> I've been wearing the same McCall's pattern hooded cloak for ten years
> now. It's time to make new ones: one for my soon-to-be Byzantine garb
> and one for my 14th century
> Also, if one is making a silk or linen lined wool mantle (I get COLD so
> if I'm wearing my mantle I want the lining) what embellishments would
> work? Beading and embroidery comes to mind.
> ~Apollonia Voss