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Need some sewing guidance... turret/pillbox hats and buttons

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  • Emmie
    I have two BIG questions. I am starting work on my Manesse Codex outfit (finally) this weekend. Has anyone ever made a turret or pillbox style hat? If you
    Message 1 of 6 , Mar 3, 2006
      I have two BIG questions. I am starting work on my Manesse Codex
      outfit (finally) this weekend. Has anyone ever made a turret or
      pillbox style hat? If you have I am having a hard time (my test model
      was a touch wavy.) Second, buttons. There are buttons at the neck to
      make it a smaller opening. I have never done buttons. THe cloth
      buttons seem easy enough. THe question is how to properly position
      them. Do I just cut a slit down, roll hem it, and sew the buttons
      on? It seems ackward and like it would change the fit of the surcotte
      and/or cotte. Just looking for a bit of guidance. Will probably do a
      muslin model first so as not to waste linen. : )

      YIS,
      Elisabeth Hänsel
    • hawkhurstmanor@yahoo.com
      MODERATOR NOTE: PLEASE DO NOT TOP-POST THANK YOU I made one of the scalloped pillbox hats last year and had an interesting time with it. I did make a pattern
      Message 2 of 6 , Mar 3, 2006
        MODERATOR NOTE:
        PLEASE DO NOT TOP-POST
        THANK YOU

        I made one of the scalloped pillbox hats last year and had an interesting time with it. I did make a pattern off the final product. (Some of my friends call it my Jughead hat). I ended up cutting the outside layer longer than the actual piece that was the side of the pillbox. I also did all of it by hand the final time and found that helped a lot in being able to adjust as I went. I still have a bit of a problem making the scallops stay exactly where I want them. Do you have any specific questions about the process??

        Yours,
        Elyn de Hauocmore
      • Emmie
        ... Elyn, Do I ever have questions. You partially answered part of it when you discussed the side being longer. I want to make sure I am not off base and
        Message 3 of 6 , Mar 3, 2006
          --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "hawkhurstmanor@..."
          <hawkhurstmanor@...> wrote:
          >Do you have any specific questions about the process??

          Elyn,

          Do I ever have questions. You partially answered part of it when
          you discussed the side being longer. I want to make sure I am not
          off base and that I am visualizing this properly. I was having
          issues with just my practice one without scallops. I have been
          working under the assumption that it is a four part item:

          1. 1-3 layers heavy linen as a stiffened lining (period = to
          buckram) for the scalloped sides/ring.

          2. 1-3 layers heavy linen as a stiffened lining (period = to
          buckram) for top circle piece.

          3. Layer linen that covers the "buckram" on the outside of the
          scalloped sides/ring.

          4. Layer linen that covers the "buckram" on the outside of the
          tope circle piece.

          Make the "ring" or sides as if you are constructing a fillet. Sew
          circle onto top just below the creases of the scallops. (I did a
          sketch drawing, because I simply stink at trying to explain how I
          think this is suppose to look.)

          http://elisabethscompendium.org/MannesseCodexTurret.JPG

          The question come in with did you make it wider towards the top or
          the same all the way up like these from the Naumberg Cathedral?
          http://elisabethscompendium.org/1naumb02.jpg
          http://elisabethscompendium.org/1naumb04.jpg

          I was thinking straight... but I was not sure. I am sewing a
          braid/cord along the scallop to get a 3 dimensional look like in the
          codex. Thank you any help or guidance that may be offered.

          YIS,

          Elisabeth Hänsel
        • hawkhurstmanor@yahoo.com
          Elisabeth, I hope all this helps..... I started with the concept of the sailor hat....I made the pill box much as you wrote, then I added the side panel/flap,
          Message 4 of 6 , Mar 3, 2006
            Elisabeth, I hope all this helps..... I started with the concept of the sailor hat....I made the pill box much as you wrote, then I added the side panel/flap, sewing it on at the bottom after it was layered, stiffened and scalloped. I measured the circumference of the hat and added about an inch, and cut that with a very tiny angle which was intended to put some space between the sides of the hat and the outer scalloped band. I know that sounds like a lot, but when you add stiffening to the outer band plus the layers of linen it does add considerably to the circumference. Also, what I used for stiffening was not buckram, primarily because I could not lay hands on any at the time, and therein probably lies my problem with the little scallops bending at their junction. And, no, I did not make it wider at the top. Jackie Kennedy would probably have been proud of the resemblance to a 60's pillbox hat, but I doubt she would have gone for the scallops.

            Now, moving on to version two....in the Manesse it sometimes looks very like the scalloped piece is actually not cut in a scallop but more like it is stretched as one would making a ruffle out of felt. I have been toying with this concept and am finding that it does work very nicely with a little patience and attention to repetition. I hope to make some white felt soon and try this with the hand made version to see how it stretches. I don't know that I have seen any direction to the materials originally used, and would be most grateful for any information if anyone has it.

            I would love to see what you come up with.
            Elyn




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          • Emmie
            I m not going to use buckram... I have a heavy linen canvas to use in its place. I would love to see your end result with the wool. I plan on starting my
            Message 5 of 6 , Mar 3, 2006
              I'm not going to use buckram... I have a heavy linen canvas to use in
              its place. I would love to see your end result with the wool. I plan
              on starting my braid tonight/ this weekend. I will post a picture
              when it is complete - as long as it is not a complete diseaster : )

              Elisabeth
            • hawkhurstmanor@yahoo.com
              Excellent....I will keep you in mind and let you know about the wool felt. Happy sewing! Elyn Emmie wrote: I m not going to use
              Message 6 of 6 , Mar 3, 2006
                Excellent....I will keep you in mind and let you know about the wool felt. Happy sewing!
                Elyn

                Emmie <elisabeth.hansel@...> wrote:
                I'm not going to use buckram... I have a heavy linen canvas to use in
                its place. I would love to see your end result with the wool. I plan
                on starting my braid tonight/ this weekend. I will post a picture
                when it is complete - as long as it is not a complete diseaster : )

                Elisabeth
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