Re: [Authentic_SCA] Period way to prevent fabric freying?
- Definately read the article. Assuming you want a certain ammount of
speed, and mostly to handsew, I can think of a few ways to get a
fairly good mimic of period seams:
*machine sew construction seams, and then handsew the edges down (seam
finishing). This is easier than handsewing the whole garment - the
part you are handsewing is under less stress (matters less if your
sewing is poor), and you can make sure the garment fits before doing
the slower handsewing.
*What i was introduced to as "french seams" - sew the garment right
way out (ie wrong sides together- opposite of normal), trim seams to a
neat ammount (say 3mm-5mm) then turn it inside out (right sides
together) and carefully sew again, sewing the seam edge into teh bit
you've jsut sewn. It's not an exact mimic, but it's a lot closer
looking to period than overlockers (which are very useful too).
*machine sew a jeans style seam. You might want a very sturdy or
industrial machine to do this.
*bind seams with bias binding. I think this seams to have been done
mostly on trouble (difficult to sew or higher stress), spots in period
(with straight grain tape, not bais, but it looks fairly similar), so
you could just use it on tricky spots, or do the whole garment with
it. You probably want extra wide bias binding, not the standard thin
stuff. (it does exist)
Don't be put off trying handsewing, (some find it relaxing, others
aggrivating) but I'm figuring smaller steps is better. It's a bit
hard to concentrate on handsewing when you have nothing to wear, and
it's very disheartening to unpick a garment that you've handsewn for
hours. I found starting by handsewing first visible hems, then
flat-felling seams, then completely handsewing a pouch, gave me a few
nice steps to improve my sewing before embarking on whole garments
handsewn. (and my second garment took half as long as the first). It
also helped that I had made a few garments in the style and was
fairly confident that I wouldn't need to adjust the pattern.
Also, remember that for overgarments, wool had the advantage of being
able to be fulled (felted), so that only minimal seam inishing was
needed. This is certainly one of the advantages of making woolen
garments, rather than deciding linen would be cooler, or cotton
On 3/1/06, Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@...> wrote:
> On Feb 28, 2006, at 1:29 PM, roisinaisolde wrote:
> > Can someone suggest some period ways to prevent fabric freying?
> > Normally I would use Freycheck.
> > I am making a medieval underdress in linen.
> Someone's already pointed you at my web article on seams in surviving
> period textiles. To summarize: seams in linen garments in period
> were overwhelmingly finished in such a way that there were no raw
> edges. Methods could include flat felled seams, seams covered by a
> "tape" with the edges folded under, or seams formed by turning each
> edge into a rolled or turned "hem", and then overcasting the edges of
> these hems together.
> Heather Rose Jones
> This is the Authentic SCA eGroup
> Yahoo! Groups Links
- It may not be quite as useful in linen, but I have enjoyed playing with
the technique mentioned in _Woven into the Earth_, which may be called
"singling" (my copy of the book is at home, so I'm relying on my less than
perfect memory for names), which the archaeologists didn't discover until
the light hit the stitches just right while they were examining the edges
of the fabric under the microscope.
If I recall correctly, that was worked on wool, and the stitching ran in
an undulating pattern along the edge of the fabric, effectively holding
the outermost thread both to the ones next to it, but also to the ones
which intersect it.
I tried this once on a nice herringbone twill wool I'd been given, and
then machine-washed and dried it before cutting out the tunic, and there
was no fraying whatsoever, despite the fact that before I did the
stitching the fabric looked like it would be easy to fray.
> Can someone suggest some period ways to prevent fabric freying?
> Normally I would use Freycheck.
> I am making a medieval underdress in linen.
- --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Heather Rose Jones
> Someone's already pointed you at my web article on seams insurviving
> period textiles. To summarize: seams in linen garments inperiod
> were overwhelmingly finished in such a way that there were no rawa
> edges. Methods could include flat felled seams, seams covered by
> "tape" with the edges folded under, or seams formed by turningeach
> edge into a rolled or turned "hem", and then overcasting the edgesof
> these hems together.Ah-ha! This is EXACTLY what I wanted to ask about. So glad that I
found this post the very day I joined this group (not long after
reading your article on seams, which I found useful, too). I'm
about to start work on a 5th-century "Roman-era Brit" tunic for a
friend, and this is NOT my usual period at all, so I don't know what
sort of seams -- and seam finishes -- are right. I prefer to finish
seams by folding each seam allowance over and hemming, but I don't
know if this is right, and as the friend in question has
specifically requested something of "Living History" quality (and I
am SO glad that someone finally wants that, instead of telling me
that I'm wasting my time when "zipping it together on a serger"
would do well enough, 'cause it won't!)... Anyway... Please, can
you tell me if hemming down each seam allowance is right for a 5th
century man's tunic, or should I do something else?