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Re: [Authentic_SCA] "patterned gathering" [was: Re: Newest projects?

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  • Heather Rose Jones
    ... I m not Teffania, but ... The one of these garments (the Thomas Beckett alb at Sens) that I ve actually studied in person (well, up close to the glass,
    Message 1 of 2 , Jan 30, 2006
      On Jan 30, 2006, at 2:55 AM, Kareina Talvi Tytär wrote:

      > Teffania wrote:
      >
      >> I've been wanting to do this for a while, but haven't braved the
      >> library to try and find out about "italian shirring" and see if this
      >> can produce the right effect.
      >> (for everyone else, there's a nice picture and explaination of it
      >> here:
      >> http://www.bellomarisco.com/smockingearly.php
      >
      > This is the first time I've heard about this technique. Thanks for
      > posting
      > the photos, it is beautiful! Your web page describes the gores as
      > being 60
      > cm wide. Does this mean that the gathered part is still a
      > rectangle if it
      > were to be ungathered?

      I'm not Teffania, but ...

      The one of these garments (the Thomas Beckett alb at Sens) that I've
      actually studied in person (well, up close to the glass, anyway) had
      side gores made up from 8 trapezoidal panels, each about 6" wide at
      the hem and 1.5" wide at the top where the pleating was. This is
      based on tracing vertical threads in the weave. So that's a total of
      about 12" of fabric at the top pleated down to maybe a couple of
      inches. The pleats in the "decorative gathering" section aren't very
      deep at all, hence the effect is very dense without a very large
      reduction ratio.

      The alb of St. Hugo has a similar construction with the side panels
      comprise of four or more pieces each.

      The others, I don't yet have good enough pictures or diagrams of to
      tell if they have the same construction. My first approximation is
      going to assume that the gathering threads follow the fabric grain on
      each individual panel but "turn corners" at the seams, but the
      resulting effect suggests that each gathering row has the same number
      of stitches, rather than each stitch covering the same amount of
      fabric. Until I've experimented enough to know what does and doesn't
      "look like the picture" I have hypotheses but no therories.

      Tangwystyl

      --
      Heather Rose Jones
      heather.jones@...
      http://www.heatherrosejones.com
      LJ:hrj
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