Re: [Authentic_SCA] "patterned gathering" [was: Re: Newest projects?
- On Jan 30, 2006, at 2:55 AM, Kareina Talvi Tytär wrote:
> Teffania wrote:I'm not Teffania, but ...
>> I've been wanting to do this for a while, but haven't braved the
>> library to try and find out about "italian shirring" and see if this
>> can produce the right effect.
>> (for everyone else, there's a nice picture and explaination of it
> This is the first time I've heard about this technique. Thanks for
> the photos, it is beautiful! Your web page describes the gores as
> being 60
> cm wide. Does this mean that the gathered part is still a
> rectangle if it
> were to be ungathered?
The one of these garments (the Thomas Beckett alb at Sens) that I've
actually studied in person (well, up close to the glass, anyway) had
side gores made up from 8 trapezoidal panels, each about 6" wide at
the hem and 1.5" wide at the top where the pleating was. This is
based on tracing vertical threads in the weave. So that's a total of
about 12" of fabric at the top pleated down to maybe a couple of
inches. The pleats in the "decorative gathering" section aren't very
deep at all, hence the effect is very dense without a very large
The alb of St. Hugo has a similar construction with the side panels
comprise of four or more pieces each.
The others, I don't yet have good enough pictures or diagrams of to
tell if they have the same construction. My first approximation is
going to assume that the gathering threads follow the fabric grain on
each individual panel but "turn corners" at the seams, but the
resulting effect suggests that each gathering row has the same number
of stitches, rather than each stitch covering the same amount of
fabric. Until I've experimented enough to know what does and doesn't
"look like the picture" I have hypotheses but no therories.
Heather Rose Jones