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Re: [Authentic_SCA] Re: 14th Century Ladies Hose

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  • Heather M
    ... Wool that s been heat-moisture-and-friction treated to felt up a bit. Really ideal for garb - and she s nailed it on the garters usage. To full your wool,
    Message 1 of 8 , Aug 1, 2005
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      Melissa wrote:

      > --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "bex_1014" <tonkin.rebecca@s...>
      > wrote:
      > > Hi: If you look on
      > > http://katerina.purplefiles.net/
      > > under "Research Articles" there is a page on stockings/hose etc that is
      > > very useful.
      > > I use a strip of fulled wool selvedge for my garters - it works very
      > > well.
      > > Collette
      >
      > Thanks so much! and if you don't mind maybe answerng one more
      > question....what is "fulled" wool :D
      >
      > -Elspeth

      Wool that's been heat-moisture-and-friction treated to felt up a bit.
      Really ideal for garb - and she's nailed it on the garters usage. To
      full your wool, take your yardage, wash it in the washer in cold or
      warm wash cool rinse water only using shampoo - I like baby shampoo, as
      it comes out really nice and soft. Then pop it in the dryer on the
      lowest setting - No Heat, or Air Only is an ideal setting. For the rest
      of the life of the piece, wash in cold water wash and rinse only, and
      either air dry or dry on no heat. You'll get some significant shrinkage,
      but not as much as if you'd truly felted it - washed it in hot water and
      threw it in the dryer on high heat. My hubby did that with a length of
      bright red wool. I think it was about three yards, and he ended up with
      maybe one yard for a final result, when he'd really, really meant to
      full it.

      Felted wool works just as well as a garter as fulled wool, IMHO. I've
      used both, with pretty equivalent results.

      Margaret Northwode, Evangelist of the Holy Fabric Trinity
    • bex_1014
      ... very ... Hi: A number of people have replied, but I will add my bit: when I speak of fulled wool, I mean wool cloth that has been exposed to some degree of
      Message 2 of 8 , Aug 1, 2005
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        --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Melissa"
        <princessbunny99@g...> wrote:

        > > I use a strip of fulled wool selvedge for my garters - it works
        very
        > > well.
        > > Collette
        >
        > Thanks so much! and if you don't mind maybe answerng one more
        > question....what is "fulled" wool :D
        >
        > -Elspeth

        Hi:
        A number of people have replied, but I will add my bit:
        when I speak of fulled wool, I mean wool cloth that has been exposed
        to some degree of water, agitation, and soap or detergent, possibly
        also including heat. This causes loose wool fibres in the cloth to
        latch on to each other and lock on, resulting on a firmer cloth. The
        degree to which this happens depends on a number of factors,
        including the type of sheep, wool type, any processing done in the
        plant, the weave of the cloth, degree of agitation, water
        temperature, etc.
        When I full my cloth, I generally throw it in the washer on hot (with
        soap), cold rinse, and line dry.
        A tight smooth weave with worsted wool generally doesn't have many
        loose fibres to catch with, so you get a slightly fuzzy, slightly
        smaller piece of cloth, which is lovely to wear.
        If you have a loose-weave cloth with a loosely-spun thread and wash
        it in hot water and tumble-dry, you may well end up with what is the
        equivalent of felt.
        When I speak of felting, I mean using wool fleece that is spread out
        into layers and those layers pounded together using heat, water &
        soap/detergent. This produces the kind of felt they use for hats or
        shoes.
        Now, I have been told that some people - particularly weavers - have
        specific terminology for 2 types of cloth processing. For them,
        fulling uses gentle action on cloth, with no or very little heat.
        Felting uses cloth still, but hot water and more pounding to really
        lock the fibres together.
        So depending on who you talk to, you may get slightly different
        meanings.
        In case you are wondering, my garters were made from a strip of
        worsted wool selvedge about an inch wide (scrap left over from a
        dress) that had been through a hot wash three times (because I don't
        like the smell of lavender wool wash) and was finished shrinking.
        They are slightly stretchy - enough to allow circulation once tightly
        tied, but they don't slip, and they don't let the hose sag. Being so
        well fulled (or felted, if you're using definition set 2), they don't
        fray either, even though I have no finishing on the edge at all.
        Incidentally, the selvedge part of the strip has a nice ripple along
        it remarkably similar to some of the presumed garters in the Museum
        of London book (can't remember whether it's Dress Accessories or
        Textiles).
        HTH
        Collette
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