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Wool Jersey was Re: emergency wool question

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  • Beth and Bob Matney
    Since there is a bit of controversy on the use of wool jersey, I thought that I d expand my reply: Please check Dressing Renaissance Florence by Carole
    Message 1 of 1 , Mar 29, 2005
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      Since there is a bit of controversy on the use of wool jersey, I thought
      that I'd expand my reply:
      "Please check "Dressing Renaissance Florence" by Carole Collier Frick ISBN
      0801869390. In it she mentions the use of wool jersey for several items."

      One specific reference by Frick: "A wide array of woolens was also
      available to citizens, from fine English wool cloth (finished in Florence
      in the Convento di San Martino) to the relatively inexpensive stretchable
      perpignan jersey used for hose, with many grades in between." pg 167.

      This is footnoted to: "51. See Hidetoshi Hoshino's work on the Florentine
      wool industry, e.g. Arte Della lana, p. 289ff, for the wide range of woolen
      fabtics exported to the papal court. Woolen clothes were cleaned by washing
      them with homemade lye soap in tepid or cold water. Kemper, Costume, p.69."

      In her Glossary (pg 315):
      "perpigniano: Woolen jersey cloth made in many colors, used mainly for
      hosiery worn by men, which originated in the town of Perpignan, France.
      However, in the Parenti ricordanza, f. 59V, a gamurra for a girl is also
      recorded as fashioned of 'perpigniano azurro con maniche di velluto verde';
      the Dominican friars also occasionally made their toniche of perpigniano cupo."

      Whether "perpignan" was a knit or a type of weave is not explained..other
      that describing it as stretchable wool jersey. I have not examined (and I
      don't read Italian) her reference:
      Hidetoshi Hoshino "L'Arte della in Firenza nel basso medioeve: Il commencio
      della lana e il mercato dei panni fiorentini nei secolli XIII-XV. Florence,
      1980.

      I feel that this justifies a limited use of modern wool jersey, remembering
      that this is a lower cost (and hence lower status) textile and is unlikely
      to be used in fancier clothing..other than the common use as men's hose.

      Beth of Walnutvale

      At 09:48 PM 3/28/2005, you wrote:

      >Karen Hall wrote:
      >
      > >Hi all,
      > >
      > >Before I mortgage my soul - or at least push my credit card to its limit
      > >again - is wool jersey period? I'm looking for fabric for a cotehardie, but
      > >might also use it for 15th century Italian or Henry VII Tudor.
      > >
      > >
      >
      >No, it is not.
      >
      >Adele
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
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