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RE: [Authentic_SCA] input on travel chest ideas

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  • Mary Taran
    ... I don t know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12 high. Still a little short, but better. Mary Taran -- No virus found in this
    Message 1 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
      At 09:35 AM 2/3/2005, you wrote:


      >I'm a 14thC maven, and I might buy one myself. :-) I would suggest painting
      >the galvanized handles black to make them less obtrusive, but staining is
      >optional. Lots of medieval chests were painted. This box at only 7 7/8
      >inches high will be too short for you to sit on, but may be just right for
      >your boys if they are still small. Great size for carrying, though.
      >
      >I went through the same thing for a number of years with building or buying
      >boxes too big to reasonably carry. Oddly enough, the longest-in-use piece
      >of gear I own is a round-top chest I bought at the 20-year celebration.
      >Small enough to carry, large enough to be useful, and I don't set things on
      >the curved top, which means it's available when I want to sit on it. :-)
      >The brass handles are modern, but I love this box and still use it anyway.
      >
      >Morgan Athenry
      >--- Laurie Cavanaugh
      >--- lscavanaugh@...

      I don't know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12"
      high. Still a little short, but better.

      Mary Taran


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    • DawnsHebog@aol.com
      In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com writes: I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble kits/models, so
      Message 2 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
        In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
        dragonwolfcat@... writes:
        I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble
        kits/models, so would this be a good compromise for
        say 3-5 years for someone who does 14th Cen. Welsh
        with anywhere from 0-3 boys at an event?
        I can't beat their mass production prices, and they look very sturdy. I say
        try one of theirs, and see how it goes for a season. You might even make sure
        it gets its fair share of abuse by dropping, exposing to sun, and an hour of
        good rain soaking.
        Just to try it out, and you'll only lose twenty bucks on it.
        I know what my stuff will do, but I do all my work by hand, and charge for it.

        H


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • wodeford
        ... I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint or swapping
        Message 3 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
          --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
          <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:

          > Kartotek box with Lid, $19.99

          I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble
          it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint
          or swapping out the hardware will hide the shiny galvanized bits.

          Don't know if it's obvious from the catalog listing, but the lid is
          not attached to the body of the box in any way. You'd have to install
          your own hinges if you want a hinged top.

          Jehanne
        • Angharad ver' Reynulf
          Thank you for the update Jehanne! I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely hoping to get as much info as possible before hand. Angharat
          Message 4 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
            Thank you for the update Jehanne!

            I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely
            hoping to get as much info as possible before hand.

            Angharat


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          • wodeford
            ... You re welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already attached to the
            Message 5 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005
              --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
              <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:
              > Thank you for the update Jehanne!

              You're welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts
              for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already
              attached to the sides - with rivets. If you decide you want to swap
              out the hardware, you'll have to pry them off forcibly.

              Assembly-wise, the sides are slotted so that the bottom panel fits
              into it. It's never a bad idea to put a little wood glue in these
              slots for added strength. The bottom panel is a thinner ply than all
              the other parts, but should be OK unless you're planning on hauling
              cannonballs in it. ;->

              As mentioned previously, the lid lifts off. The short sides of the lid
              are beveled to fit flush, strips of plywood appear to be glued on the
              underside running along the long sides so the lid doesn't surf off the
              chest. Caveat: I also have their APA storage box and one of the
              screwed on strips decided not to stay screwed after a rough ride off a
              primitive site. Depending on how hard you are on the box, you might
              have to reattach one or both of these at a future date.

              The long sides of the lid are not beveled, so if you want to attach
              hinges and a hasp of some sort, you should be able to do so.

              Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
              the front and back panels.

              Back to work,
              Jehanne
            • wodeford
              ... And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they didn t *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the ones on mine. And
              Message 6 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005
                --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "wodeford" <wodeford@y...> wrote:

                > Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
                > the front and back panels.

                And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they
                didn't *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the
                ones on mine.

                And sandpaper.

                Other than that, it goes together very easily.

                Jehanne
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