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Re: [Authentic_SCA] input on travel chest ideas

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  • Angharad ver' Reynulf
    Thank you all for your quick input. I have offers from two local friends to help assemble these and assist in any necessary adjustments. (see below) In regards
    Message 1 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
      Thank you all for your quick input.

      I have offers from two local friends to help assemble
      these and assist in any necessary adjustments. (see
      below)

      In regards to keeping scrap wood to keep the boxes off
      of the ground, would it be feasible to add feet to the
      bases of the boxes? With their help, I should be able
      to get basic wood cut to add maybe a 2" foot?
      (something like a 2 x 2 running down the width so that
      the grain is sideways? not certain what was meant by
      that) That would raise the boxes off of the ground,
      and with the possible stacking, also allow the
      poles/slats to be run underneath them while packing
      the van.

      My lower leg length from heel to inner knee bend is
      just under 16". So it would also almost lift it to a
      comfortable height for me, the addition of a nicely
      worked cushion should do it, I think.

      Angharat




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    • wodeford
      ... You might want to think about removable feet. I have a chest with feet and I find that trying to shove it in and out of the ridged bedliner in my pick-up
      Message 2 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
        --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
        <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:

        > In regards to keeping scrap wood to keep the boxes off
        > of the ground, would it be feasible to add feet to the
        > bases of the boxes? With their help, I should be able
        > to get basic wood cut to add maybe a 2" foot?
        > (something like a 2 x 2 running down the width so that
        > the grain is sideways? not certain what was meant by
        > that) That would raise the boxes off of the ground,
        > and with the possible stacking, also allow the
        > poles/slats to be run underneath them while packing
        > the van.
        You might want to think about removable feet. I have a chest with feet
        and I find that trying to shove it in and out of the ridged bedliner
        in my pick-up is a pain.. For my flat bottomed kitchen box, I keep a
        few pieces of 2"x"4 scraps around, which is usually enough to raise
        them off the ground when needed. When it's time to shove things back
        in the truck, the flat bottomed box slides right in again, the scrap
        wood pieces are small enough to fit in odd corners, and you haven't
        added any weight to your box.

        Since you're planning on your boxes doubling as seating, you might try
        this. Cut two pieces of 2"x4" the width of your box plus 8 inches.
        Cut four pieces 4 inches long. Drill each 4" piece for a bolt in the
        center. Measure 4" from each end of the long pieces and drill the
        centers of each 4" square on these as well. Sandwich the long pieces
        between two 4" pieces at each end and bolt them together. You should
        end up with something that looks like a squat H. If you measure
        correctly, you should be able to sit your box on the long slats and
        the 4" squares on the top of each end will keep it from shifting
        around when someone sits on it. This will add 4" of height to your
        box, though you could cut and add 4" squares to the bottom of the H if
        you wanted more height. And again, once you want to pick up your box
        to move it, the legs come off and aren't adding weight to your burden.

        Hope this makes sense.

        Jehanne

        Does this make any sense?
        >
        > My lower leg length from heel to inner knee bend is
        > just under 16". So it would also almost lift it to a
        > comfortable height for me, the addition of a nicely
        > worked cushion should do it, I think.
        >
        > Angharat
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > __________________________________
        > Do you Yahoo!?
        > Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
        > http://my.yahoo.com
      • Mary Taran
        ... I don t know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12 high. Still a little short, but better. Mary Taran -- No virus found in this
        Message 3 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
          At 09:35 AM 2/3/2005, you wrote:


          >I'm a 14thC maven, and I might buy one myself. :-) I would suggest painting
          >the galvanized handles black to make them less obtrusive, but staining is
          >optional. Lots of medieval chests were painted. This box at only 7 7/8
          >inches high will be too short for you to sit on, but may be just right for
          >your boys if they are still small. Great size for carrying, though.
          >
          >I went through the same thing for a number of years with building or buying
          >boxes too big to reasonably carry. Oddly enough, the longest-in-use piece
          >of gear I own is a round-top chest I bought at the 20-year celebration.
          >Small enough to carry, large enough to be useful, and I don't set things on
          >the curved top, which means it's available when I want to sit on it. :-)
          >The brass handles are modern, but I love this box and still use it anyway.
          >
          >Morgan Athenry
          >--- Laurie Cavanaugh
          >--- lscavanaugh@...

          I don't know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12"
          high. Still a little short, but better.

          Mary Taran


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        • DawnsHebog@aol.com
          In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com writes: I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble kits/models, so
          Message 4 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
            In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
            dragonwolfcat@... writes:
            I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble
            kits/models, so would this be a good compromise for
            say 3-5 years for someone who does 14th Cen. Welsh
            with anywhere from 0-3 boys at an event?
            I can't beat their mass production prices, and they look very sturdy. I say
            try one of theirs, and see how it goes for a season. You might even make sure
            it gets its fair share of abuse by dropping, exposing to sun, and an hour of
            good rain soaking.
            Just to try it out, and you'll only lose twenty bucks on it.
            I know what my stuff will do, but I do all my work by hand, and charge for it.

            H


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • wodeford
            ... I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint or swapping
            Message 5 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
              --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
              <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:

              > Kartotek box with Lid, $19.99

              I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble
              it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint
              or swapping out the hardware will hide the shiny galvanized bits.

              Don't know if it's obvious from the catalog listing, but the lid is
              not attached to the body of the box in any way. You'd have to install
              your own hinges if you want a hinged top.

              Jehanne
            • Angharad ver' Reynulf
              Thank you for the update Jehanne! I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely hoping to get as much info as possible before hand. Angharat
              Message 6 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
                Thank you for the update Jehanne!

                I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely
                hoping to get as much info as possible before hand.

                Angharat


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              • wodeford
                ... You re welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already attached to the
                Message 7 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005
                  --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
                  <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:
                  > Thank you for the update Jehanne!

                  You're welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts
                  for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already
                  attached to the sides - with rivets. If you decide you want to swap
                  out the hardware, you'll have to pry them off forcibly.

                  Assembly-wise, the sides are slotted so that the bottom panel fits
                  into it. It's never a bad idea to put a little wood glue in these
                  slots for added strength. The bottom panel is a thinner ply than all
                  the other parts, but should be OK unless you're planning on hauling
                  cannonballs in it. ;->

                  As mentioned previously, the lid lifts off. The short sides of the lid
                  are beveled to fit flush, strips of plywood appear to be glued on the
                  underside running along the long sides so the lid doesn't surf off the
                  chest. Caveat: I also have their APA storage box and one of the
                  screwed on strips decided not to stay screwed after a rough ride off a
                  primitive site. Depending on how hard you are on the box, you might
                  have to reattach one or both of these at a future date.

                  The long sides of the lid are not beveled, so if you want to attach
                  hinges and a hasp of some sort, you should be able to do so.

                  Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
                  the front and back panels.

                  Back to work,
                  Jehanne
                • wodeford
                  ... And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they didn t *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the ones on mine. And
                  Message 8 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005
                    --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "wodeford" <wodeford@y...> wrote:

                    > Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
                    > the front and back panels.

                    And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they
                    didn't *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the
                    ones on mine.

                    And sandpaper.

                    Other than that, it goes together very easily.

                    Jehanne
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